My 2010 5.4 F-150 Lariat 2WD truck has 130,000 Miles on it and the gas mileage took a dive from 16.5 to 15.2. I'm over due to change the spark plugs. Maybe that will help. Are there any secrets or tricks I should know about before I get started changing them. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks

 

all I would say is be careful when you pull off the electrical connection to your COP's (Coil On Plugs). I was struggling with one of the back ones near the fire wall and broke the locking tab off of the coil itself. also, after you remove the rubber boots that connect the coil to the plug I would get a shop-vac and some 5/8" plastic tubing to clean out the spark plug tunnel. Even though the boot has multiple flanges to keep debris out, I found more dirt and sand than I expected. Other than that it's a pretty straight forward job. With that said, I have a 4.6, but I can't imagine it's that much more different/difficult on a 5.4.


Hope this helps,


Q.

 

Thanks for the tip. I have an air compressor to blow out the spark plug tunnels before I remove the plugs.

 

I know my plug design is much different than yours, but, when I decided it was time to change the plugs (2006 Mark LT 4x2, 5.4, 35,000 miles) although I did follow the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did…

1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs)
2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster.
3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to)
4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully)
The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really. Another technique that can definitely be used is to loosen the plugs about 1/8 to ¼ of a turn, start the engine for about 1 minute- this allows the flame to travel up around the plug to burn off the carbon, let cool, then remove with the process I previously described.
As far as using an air ratchet, I can understand the theory of “shocking” the carbon loose, but I have also seen and experienced in my younger days some real disasters.