Has anyone changed their spark plugs in the aforementioned engine WITHOUT any problems, I find a lot of horror stories concerning these plug changes and would like to find out if they ALL have problems or if bad news travels a lot faster than good news when it comes to this issue. My 07 now has 70,000 miles on it and I am considering trying to change them now rather than wait for the 100,000 miles like Ford recommends. If it will be a ball buster anyway I may as well just run it until it won't run without the change and do it then.

 

Ok...here's my story..........

When I decided it was time to change the plugs (2006 Mark LT 4x2, 5.4, 35,000 miles) with the Motorcraft SP 515’s. Although I knew about the carbon build-up/plug removal issue, I decided not to change the plugs until there was a replacement plug that I was comfortable with…meaning I knew it was a good quality plug in terms of component design and construction. Although I did follow the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did…
1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs)
2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster.
3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to)
4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully)
The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really. Another technique that can definitely be used is to loosen the plugs about 1/8 to ¼ of a turn, start the engine for about 1 minute- this allows the flame to travel up around the plug to burn off the carbon, let cool, then remove with the process I previously described.
As far as using an air ratchet, I can understand the theory of “shocking” the carbon loose, but I have also seen and experienced in my younger days some real disasters.
Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours.
FYI- Why I choose Motorcraft.
In the 1970’s I ran (like many) Champion’s in just about everything (even had the gold palladiums), but stopped in the early 1980’s when they changed their copper-core design and the resulting quality problems that IMHO still exist today. Since then I have run Splitfire (non-platinum) in my old world (1960’s) cars, Bosch in my late 1990’s vehicles (both because the cylinder head design really prefers these types of plugs), but I really had hesitation because of the construction/component quality of the non-Motorcraft plugs and really questioned the durability in this application about the Motorcraft SP508 or SP 509’s which are single platinum. Given the types of loads and burn/flame promulgation rates in the chambers, I really had doubts about the style of the plug with single platinum having the ability to “survive” as long as they engineers said. What do ya know…the SP 515’s are double platinum.

 

Beechkid......Thanks for taking the time to answer the way you did, My hope is that if I change them out now I can minimize the chances of the carbon build up to the point of it being impossible to get the plugs out without breaking them. Your method looks to be a possibility for me.

 

If u run seafoam though the fuel tank 2-3 times it will loosen up the carbon around the bottom of the plug. I've done a lot of these tune-ups and if costumer listen to me u have a good chance of getting them out. But if u r going to do it Ur self it's worth buying to spark plug removal tool from lisle. The tool is easy to use and I've gotten all broken plugs out.

 

I've done a lot of these tune-ups. And I've had all eight break. And I've had all 8 come out. The lower the miles the better chance of getting them out. I just did one with a 187,000 miles on it. And it was a pain but I got all out with the tool. It's never let me down yet. I am on my 2nd set from wearing the threads out. Of the 1st one. And if u break one and use the tool too get the broken part out. Use compressed air to blow out any small pieces that may fall in. Hope this helps.

 

Thank you chris watts, I don't believe I'll tackle this myself because I am forty miles from the nearest garage if I should need them and after I disable the vehicle and require a tow to get there I have only compounded my problem.
I actually was at a garage yesterday (getting my plow front installed) with the truck in question and the owner said they have changed a lot of them and He does have the tool to remove them should one or more break. I'm fairly confident in their abilities. I will run the seafoam for a few tanks of gas before I take it to them and hopefully that will help out the carbon issue.