208 Burnt Marshmallow Thread

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Apr 21, 2015 | 10:38 PM

#16

*208*

Thread Starter

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Joined: Mar 2015

Posts: 71

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From: Rathdrum, ID

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTFun06

Sweet looking Ex!

Apoc!! There is your brush guard!! (I know, I know you don't like them!!) That would mow down some baby deer with no problems!

That brush guard needs a new home...it's off and awaiting a proud new owner.

Apr 21, 2015 | 11:19 PM

#17

Drunken_Unicorn

Laughing Gas

Joined: Nov 2014

Posts: 1,118

Likes: 4

From: Idaho

I like that brush guard, but it's not beefy enough for me.

Burnt Marshmallow looks pretty good with that brush guard though.

Are you going to go for a new style bumper/brush guard?

Apr 22, 2015 | 09:32 AM

#18

*208*

Thread Starter

Junior User

Joined: Mar 2015

Posts: 71

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From: Rathdrum, ID

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drunken_Unicorn

I like that brush guard, but it's not beefy enough for me.

Burnt Marshmallow looks pretty good with that brush guard though.

Are you going to go for a new style bumper/brush guard?

I'd like just a bull nose bar for a future LED lightbar. Something that is a bit toned down from this grill guard. It is very heavy duty. I was shocked at how solid it was when I removed it.

Apr 22, 2015 | 02:46 PM

#19

Drunken_Unicorn

Laughing Gas

Joined: Nov 2014

Posts: 1,118

Likes: 4

From: Idaho

Did that bad boy just bolt up to where your tow hooks are? How much did that one weigh? Did it have a brand or anything on it?

Apr 23, 2015 | 10:14 AM

#20

FordxFour

Posting Guru

Joined: Jun 2004

Posts: 2,433

Likes: 1

From: Apex, N.C.

Great looking Ex! Another thought on the vibration that you are experiencing. When you replaced the rear U-joint, did you put flange back in reference as it was from the factory. It may be 180* out. I always draw a line(with chalk) from the driveshaft down to the hogs head and line everything back up when re-installing.

Apr 30, 2015 | 08:10 PM

#21

*208*

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Joined: Mar 2015

Posts: 71

Likes: 0

From: Rathdrum, ID

Update:
I installed the 4* shims under the rear spring packs. It evened out my angles to 3.5* on both the transfer case flange and pinion flange.

However, my vibration still remains at both speed ranges. It was reduce in intensity by 20% or so. Next step is to have the driveshaft balanced, but I'm not holding my breath. I spoke to the best driveshaft guy around this area and he said that it is very difficult to knock a driveshaft out of balance on a hwy vehicle.

So I'm in need of other things to look at. I checked the orientation of the flange and it's correct. Any other thoughts, ideas or suggestions?

Apr 30, 2015 | 08:15 PM

#22

*208*

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Joined: Mar 2015

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From: Rathdrum, ID

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drunken_Unicorn

Did that bad boy just bolt up to where your tow hooks are? How much did that one weigh? Did it have a brand or anything on it?

Yes, it bolted up to the 4 bumper bolts and then had 2 braces that went through the bumper and grill gap and connected to the sub frame for support. I didn't look at it well before I took off on my vacation. I will have to look to see what I can find for markings.

May 1, 2015 | 12:58 AM

#23

Bently_Coop

Lead Driver

Joined: Mar 2013

Posts: 7,460

Likes: 85

From: Kent Station, WA

What rear blocks are you using? There are tapered and flat. Wheelbase defines which is needed.

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May 1, 2015 | 08:41 PM

#24

*208*

Thread Starter

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Joined: Mar 2015

Posts: 71

Likes: 0

From: Rathdrum, ID

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bently_Coop

What rear blocks are you using? There are tapered and flat. Wheelbase defines which is needed.

I have the tapered blocks on the rear. I had the thick part of the shim towards the front. Only vibe was from 50-67.

I just put some straight blocks on and swapped the shim around with the fat part pointed towards rear. Now I get a vibe @ 25-30 and also the 50-67 one.

I'm going to go back to tapered with shim fat part forward.

I had the rear driveshaft out and took it to get balanced, it's perfect. Replaced the already replaced cheap NAPA ujoint with a quality Neapco ujoint. So I know the driveshaft is good.

I unbolted rear driveshaft and drove in 4x4 and the vibe from 50-67 was still there but about 50% less noticeable. WTH is wrong with this marshmallow?

Did a rear dif fluid service and turned the rear brake rotors (fronts need to be turned bad).

I'm at a complete loss what is causing the vibration. Would wheel bearings front or rear be the culprit? Don't want to throw money at good parts...so if anyone has any suggestions.

May 1, 2015 | 10:41 PM

#25

Krazee Matt

Logistics Pro

Joined: Jan 2014

Posts: 3,595

Likes: 17

Got your PM, let me dig out the mountain of information I had accumulated when I was still doing Jeep's and see what I can find. Different vehicle, but most of the principles and causes of vibration should stay the same. Those things were terrible with vibrations after lifts, ugh.

May 1, 2015 | 10:46 PM

#26

Krazee Matt

Logistics Pro

Joined: Jan 2014

Posts: 3,595

Likes: 17

Still digging, but I knew Christina had posted this somewhere before and had to dig it up - has a lot of good and pertinent information in it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sammie0126

Over the last several months I have gathered a ton of information on vibration diagnosis as I worked through each issue on my EX. I didn't see one similiar to this one on this forum and I think it has some really good information on diagnosis of vehicle vibrations, so I thought I would post for others to use.
Vehicle vibration can be caused by:
Tire/wheel unbalance or excessive run out
Defective tires with extreme tread wear
Nylon overlay flat spots (performance tires only)
Incorrect wheel bearing adjustment (if applicable)
Loose or worn suspension/steering components
Certain tire tread patterns
Incorrect drive shaft angles or excessive driveshaft/yoke run out
Defective or worn U-joints
Excessive brake rotor or drum run out
Loose engine or transmission supports/mounts
And by engine operated accessories
Refer to the appropriate Groups in this manual for additional information.

VIBRATION TYPES
There are two types of vehicle vibration:
Mechanical
Audible.
Mechanical vehicle vibration can be felt through the seats, floor pan and/or steering wheel.
Audible vehicle vibration is heard above normal background noise. The sound can be a droning or drumming noise.
Vibrations are sensitive to change in engine torque, vehicle speed or engine speed.

ENGINE TORQUE SENSITIVE VIBRATION
This vibration can be increased or decreased by:
Accelerating
Decelerating
Coasting
Maintaining a constant vehicle speed

VEHICLE SPEED SENSITIVE VIBRATION
This vibration condition always occurs at the same vehicle speed regardless of engine torque or engine speed.

ENGINE SPEED (RPM) SENSITIVE VIBRATION
This vibration occurs at varying engine speeds. It can be isolated by increasing or decreasing the engine
speed with the transmission in NEUTRAL position.

VIBRATION DIAGNOSIS
A vibration diagnosis should always begin with a 10 mile (16 km) trip (to warm the vehicle and tires).
Then a road test to identify the vibration. Corrective action should not be attempted until the vibration
type has been identified via a road test. During the road test, drive the vehicle on a smooth surface. If vibration exists, note and record the following information:
Identify the vehicle speed range when the vibration occurs
Identify the type of vibration
Identify the vibration sensitivity
Determine if the vibration is affected by changes in vehicle speed, engine speed and engine torque.
When the vibration has been identified, refer to the Vibration Diagnosis chart for causes. (see below)Consider correcting
only those causes coded in the chart that are related to the vibration condition. Refer to the following cause codes and descriptions for explanations when referring to the chart.

TRR—Tire and Wheel Radial Run out: Vehicle speed sensitive, mechanical vibration. The run out will not cause vibration below 20 mph (32 km/h).

WH—Wheel Hop: Vehicle speed sensitive, mechanical vibration. The wheel hop generates rapid up-down movement in the steering wheel. The vibration is most noticeable in the 20 - 40 mph (32 - 64km/h) range. The wheel hop will not cause vibration below 20 mph (32 km/h). Wheel hop is caused by a tire/wheel that has a radial run out of more than
0.045 of-an-inch (1.14 mm). If wheel run out is acceptable and combined run out cannot be reduced by repositioning
the tire on wheel, replace tire.

TB—Tire/Wheel Balance: Vehicle speed sensitive, mechanical vibration. Static tire/wheel unbalance will not cause vibration below 30 mph (46 km/h). Dynamic tire/wheel unbalance will not cause vibration below 40 mph (64 km/h).

TLR—Tire/Wheel Lateral run out: Vehicle speed sensitive, mechanical vibration. The run out will not cause vibration below 50 - 55 mph (80 - 88 km/h). Excessive lateral run out will also cause front-end shimmy.

TW—Tire Wear: Vehicle speed sensitive, audible vibration. Abnormal tire wear causes small vibration in the 30 - 55 mph (88 km/h) range. This will produce a whine noise at high speed. The whine will change to a growl noise when the speed is reduced.

W—Tire Waddle: Vehicle speed sensitive, mechanical vibration. Irregular tire uniformity can cause side-to-side motion during speeds up to 15 mph (24km/h). If the motion is excessive, identify the defective tire and replace it.

UAJ—Universal Joint (Drive Shaft) Angles: Torque/vehicle speed sensitive, mechanical/audible vibration.
Incorrect drive shaft angles cause mechanical vibration below 20 mph (32 km/h) and in the 70 mph (112 km/h) range. The incorrect angles can also produce an audible vibration in the 20 - 50 mph (32 -80 km/h) range. Caster adjustment could be required to correct the angles.

UJ—Universal Joints: Engine torque/vehicle speed sensitive, mechanical/audible vibration. If the U-joint is worn it will cause vibration with almost any vehicle speed/engine torque condition.

DSY—Drive Shaft and Yokes: Vehicle speed sensitive, mechanical/audible vibration. The condition will not cause vibration below 35 mph (56 km/h). Excessive run out, unbalance or dents and bends in the shaft will cause the vibration. Identify the actual cause and repair/replace as necessary.

WB—Wheel Bearings: Vehicle speed sensitive, mechanical/audible vibration. Loose wheel bearings cause shimmy-like vibration at 35 mph (56 km/h) and above. Worn bearings will also produce a growl noise at low vehicle speed and a whine noise at high vehicle speed. The wheel bearings must be adjusted or replaced, as applicable.

AN—Axle Noise: Engine torque/vehicle speed sensitive, mechanical/audible vibration. The axle will not cause mechanical vibration unless the axle shaft is bent. Worn or damaged axle pinion shaft or differential gears and bearings will cause noise. Replace the defective component(s) as necessary.

SSC—Suspension and Steering Components:
Vehicle speed sensitive, mechanical vibration. Worn suspension/steering components can cause mechanical vibration at speeds above 20 mph (32 km/h). Identify and repair or replace the defective component(s).

EA—Engine Driven Accessories: Engine speed sensitive, mechanical/audible vibration. Vibration can be caused by loose or broken A/C compressor, PS pump, water pump, generator or brackets, etc. Usually more noticeable when the transmission is shifted into the NEUTRAL position and the engine speed (rpm) increased. Inspect the engine driven accessories in the engine compartment. Repair/replace as necessary.

ADB—Accessory Drive Belts: Engine speed sensitive, audible vibration. Worn drive belts can cause a vibration that produces either a droning, fluttering or rumbling noise. Inspect the drive belt(s) and tighten/replace as necessary.

DEM—Damaged Engine or Transmission Support Mounts: Engine speed sensitive, mechanical/audible vibration. If a support mount is worn, noise or vibration will occur. Inspect the support mounts and repair/replace as necessary.

ES—Exhaust System: Engine speed sensitive, mechanical/audible vibration. If loose exhaust components contact the vehicle body they will cause noise and vibration. Inspect the exhaust system for loose, broken and mis-aligned components and repair/replace as necessary.
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May 1, 2015 | 11:08 PM

#27

twigsV10

Cargo Master

Joined: Jun 2010

Posts: 2,113

Likes: 4

From: Iowa

Quote:

Originally Posted by *208*

Have you been running with the hubs locked? Or checked that there actually unlocking? If the front driveshaft is spinning it could also have a u-joint or balancing problem. That's one of the nicest looking burnt marshmallows I've ever seen. Lol.

May 1, 2015 | 11:17 PM

#28

*208*

Thread Starter

Junior User

Joined: Mar 2015

Posts: 71

Likes: 0

From: Rathdrum, ID

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krazee Matt

Thx Matt. I have been reading that awesome chart by Christina for the last several days. Could rear wheel bearings possibly be the culprit?

May 1, 2015 | 11:21 PM

#29

*208*

Thread Starter

Junior User

Joined: Mar 2015

Posts: 71

Likes: 0

From: Rathdrum, ID

Quote:

Originally Posted by twigsV10

I did check today that the front driveshaft spins freely without the front wheels turning. Thx for the suggestion. I too am wondering if it's something in the front that is causing my vibration.

May 2, 2015 | 11:45 AM

#30

twigsV10

Cargo Master

Joined: Jun 2010

Posts: 2,113

Likes: 4

From: Iowa

You mentioned the front brake rotors are need turned, if they are badly warped and a brake caliper that is ever so slightly dragging will cause a surprising amount of vibration. It would be a slower rpm shake than a driveshaft though.

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