So I was all set to replace the spark plugs and boots on my 2005 e350. I was talking to my 5.4 hating mechanic buddy. He swears even though its a 2v I better have an extraction tool ready. Yet all the tools I see are only for the 3v.

I started searching and can't find much info for the 2v with more threads. Most posts are the 4 thread 2v or the 3v.

So whats the deal? I was under the impression my motor would be easy. Do I need to worry since I have no idea when and how the plugs were changed on my 200,000 mile motor? Being that they could be stuck in my higher thread count aluminium head.


Also while investigating the plug change I noticed a leak around my intake. The intake was replaced right before I bought the truck. 13k miles and 2 years ago. It looks like the upper intake doesn't cover something its supposed to like its the wrong intake. Maybe I'm missing something.

There are no problems performance wise. Nothing major leaking. Although it does seem to mysteriously lose almost 2 quarts of oil right before its due for an oil change. I check the oil level fairly regularly. It won't be low then all the sudden it seems like it loses a quart or two at once. Yet it doesn't leave puddles or smoke.

IMG_20150404_163000665 by oldblue2011, on Flickr


Thats the back passenger side of the motor.

 

I've probably changed more than 100 plugs out of these engines and never had a stripped plug hole. Our fleet only goes back to 2006, so I guess it's possible that Ford made some slight changes to fix the plug problem in '06.

My advice though is if it's running fine, don't bother changing plugs. We run ours at least 300,000 miles and don't really notice much difference in the way the engine runs when they are changed. It's kind of like how the 3000 mile oil change is way overkill for modern oils and engines.

Regarding your intake leak, you don't specify what exactly is leaking. There is coolant running through the intake manifold, and we've had coolant leaks before. That's bound to get worse over time and eventually needs to be fixed. You'll start getting misfires as coolant leaks into plug holes.

 

Not sure where or how you're searching for plug changing info in a 5.4 (aka modular motor) but there are literally 100's of them in the sub-forums dealing with those specific engines.

E-Series never received the 3v heads. Add to that the 2v heads used a different design plug not typically experiencing the type breakage requiring an extraction tool----two reasons info seems to be lacking on that front.

I disagree with Del on plug changes, I go no more than 50K on my two E250's. Perhaps I'm too old to think a plug hasn't lost significant performance once they pass 50K miles but for me changing them is cheap and easy enough its not all that inconvenient or problematic---I can't see the downside to doing this before the claimed 100K + interval.

I also use nickel-based anti-seize on plug threads, torque them to 21-23 ft/lbs, re-torquing them at 5-10K miles into the new plugs.

I have idea what this image of the intake is showing. Modular Motors intakes are not like older V8's that totally enclosed the valley of the block--there are "exposed" areas that might look out-of-place to someone new to this design. Because they are plastic and because there are known issues with some production runs replacement was kinda common, the Dorman brand being used most often it seems. I don't know an OEM would be any better or any different from Dorman as they do provide a lot of parts to Ford used during manufacture.

Oil loss could be related to the PCV which is another common and known issue with these motors. At $10-12 its a cheap fix. Because these engines use lighter weight oil loosing a quart over 3K miles is also common---keep checking that level every other gasoline stop, replenish as needed until oil/filter is changed. This is just one more of those things we deal with as owners of these motors.

HTH

 

Same for me on the plug change interval. I do mine every 50k too. In my truck, the plug change is a piece of cake. One socket, ratchet and extension for the plugs and one socket, ratchet and extension for the coils. But the van is a different story. Remove the air filter box, unhook about everything on the top half of the engine, take the seats out, bring half your tool box and be prepared to use a different extension/swivel combo on every plug and coil. As mentioned, no extraction tool needed.

 

Go to aonrachtools.com and check out this tool and procedure. You won't need the extraction tool and you won't break any plugs.

 

I can buy a piece of pvc pipe if so inclined. I'm not.

 

Well, its not quite that bad---but close enough to be sad.

While the idea of removing a seat seems complicated or extra work doing so opens up so much space inside its almost a joy. More than once over a weekend I've pulled both front seats for various tasks---it borders on amazing. Do it once and you'll see for yourself---highly recommended.

Honestly with seats out my V8 5.4's plugs can have 6 removed from inside, the front two (#1 & #5) from the front. If you don't mind reaching and stretching a bit only #1 needs the air filter housing snorkel removed, #5 reachable as is.

 

Not even close to that bad. Pulling seats??? If I don't run into stuck plug boots and or oil and grime filled plug holes I can change all the plugs and have it buttoned back up in less than two hours.

I pull the front airbox, the elbow connecting it to the throttle body and the dog house. Also might release a PCV tube or two. I have a couple sizes of extensions for the 1/4 drive and a couple for my 3/8ths. No universals, one "swivel" for the 1/4" drive. If I get a plug boot stuck, I'll screw into the boot with a big bolt as far as I can and ape on it. I use an 18volt impact for the airbox and hose clamps, and sometimes I'll wheel out a few COP bolts with the impact (never in though). Shop air for blasting out the plug holes before pulling the plug is handy, but brake cleaner and canned air dusters work too.

My plug change interval has gotten longer and longer over time. I started with 100,000 mile intervals but over time noticed very little difference bumping the interval up to 200,000 and then 300,000 miles. I do buy good quality plugs. Modern plug material is much different than it was 20 years ago, and coil-over-plug design has way more fire power than the old systems. At least that's my theory as to why we get away with such long intervals. Our vans run non-stop highway, but the actual number of firings for our plugs shouldn't be that much different than someone with more stop-and-go time.

Sometime in the next month I'll get a chance to pull plugs out of a 2006 5.4L engine that has 720,000 miles on the engine and 410,000 on the plugs. I'll try to update with a photo of the plugs and if I get a chance, I can run a before-after fuel economy check. It's running just fine right now though.

 

Pulling the seats was well worth the time. I would have wasted more time working around them than I spent pulling them out. 4 nuts and an electrical connector and about a minute or two per seat and you have plenty of room to work. It is far from the worst job you could do on a vehicle, but a pain in the butt compared to changing the plugs in my 5.0 bronco or 5.4 truck.

 

Only thing I can figure there on the seats is that it depends on how large a person you are and/or how flexible you are. Contrary to my profile photo, I'm actually fairly thin. I roll both the seats all the way back and pull the doghouse, then lay down between them.

Another thing is I kind of have it down to a science. I know exactly what I need in terms of all the sockets, extensions etc as well as the troubleshooting items. So I'm not usually getting up and down a lot. I work with a headlight so that both my hands are free and I'm not fumbling with a shop light and cord. That actually makes a big difference sometimes - when you're reaching way into the engine bay and you barely spot the head of a COP bolt in your line of sight that you're trying to get onto, you get on it in a second rather than fumbling around in the dark for a minute or two. It all adds up.

 

Yes BUT you're doing this far, far more frequently than most anyone else here---that alone makes a huge difference. I pull the seats because its not a hassle for me and being a combination of **** AND claustrophobic doing so makes perfect sense. Add in I have a huge Snap On box installed that resembles a bulkhead partition my up-front room is limited.

But the point is taken---its not necessary to pull the seats IF you're able to work around or in tight spaces. We driveway mechanics work in a different world.


Del if you're able to do this I'd find it highly fascinating, no doubt others would too. Perhaps measure the electrode gap if possible? Such info would make or break the case about plug changing intervals.

 

You may be right. I'm trying to harken back to my first plug change and I'm vaguely recalling that it was a daunting task at the time that took me significantly longer than it does now.

I'll do my best to get back about the plugs. If I recall correctly, I put in Bosche Platinum plugs that have a surface gap kind of thing going on. There's a tiny electrode coming just flush with the ceramic in those plugs. As they wear, the electrode gets recessed into the ceramic. It might be hard to assess the gap from those.

 

Using power tools , removing the seats makes sense to me.

 

Power tools not needed. T-55 Torx PLUS socket, 18mm 1/2" drive deep or semi-deep hex socket and one electrical connector and they're out.

Its not that seat removal is the only way or even the best way to change plugs, its simple one of those things I do and recommend for those not familiar or experienced with the process. I could leave the seats in place, I just choose not to.

Honestly if it weren't for the 3-4 times a year I carry a passenger that right seat would forever dwell in my garage, replaced only if/when the van is sold.

 

I cant believe the admin doesnt have the little 'lurker' smiley..

If so, I would post it right here>>___