I'm lazy. I use air or electric tools for everything I can get them on. I'm done hand jobbing when I work on vehicles. I even have battery powered screwdrivers from when I did dash work.

 

I know so far off topic but I'm trying to find the size of an intake bolt to a 1999 f250 half heavy 5.4 gas with the 4r100 tranny it's the same 5.4 from 1998 to 2003 but the bolts may vary I do not know I just need the intake manifold bolt size could anyone hwlp?

 

I am purchasing a 1998 E350 5.4 and want to know if I buy the Ford MOTORCRAFT SP405 or do I purchase iridium plugs? I bought iridium plugs for my Subaru and I can tell you that they did not last any longer than regular plugs. I don't plan on going with DelGriff's 400k spark plug change intervals as I don't think I will put another 400k on the van.

 

Almost constantly in the Modular Motors sub-forum the issue of spark plugs and COP's is under discussion. Just as frequently the consensus is Motorcraft plugs (SP479 in this case), new boots and Motorcraft or Denso COP's have the least amount of problems. Those who've tried using all the hi-tek gee whiz stuff soon find out such things are more hype than useful.

When changing plugs at 50K miles I'd add using a bit of nickel-based anti-seize on the threads and proper torque (25/28 ft/lbs) also yields long lasting and trouble free driving. The anti-seize aids removal next time out, the increased torque eliminates plugs working themselves loose.

When DelGriffith was posting more regularly some of his fleet experiences were amazing---still are upon second reading.

 

JWA, I am going to hold you to this quote. I mentioned before that I would not remove the seats. I changed my mind. Seats are easy to remove. What size torquer for the seats?

 

If I can get this job done in under 8 hours the first time through I will be happy. I replaced the passenger plug closest to the front of the vehicle in about 20 minutes.

 

The front bolts are a T-55 PLUS torx bit----nothing else will work. A T-55 fits into the recess but it doesn't engage the spurs inside that recess enough to not strip the bolt head. Most would grab a T-60 but that's just too large to fit the recess.

Back nuts are 18MM---a medium length socket works perfectly here. Also a deep well and regular length sockets work but you do have to switch them due clearance of the seat base.

Be careful disconnecting the seat belt pyro--it can be fragile due age. Its a good idea to disconnect the battery negative cable about 15 minutes before removing the seat--let any residual current in the air bag module bleed off. Also be careful with the pigtail from the chassis wiring to the seat belt pyro---its laying right on the floor so could be easily damaged if its not protected until the seat is re-installed. I damaged my wiring by carelessly trapping it between the seat base and floor when tightening the back nuts. It was repairable but that annoying dash light wouldn't go out until it was repaired.

 

Greetings ~ plugs arrived this afternoon ~ installed the plugs on the passenger side ~ couldn't get the connector off coil plug 4 ~ was about to button it up for the night ~ daughter showed up and was climbing up to remove the clip ~ I told her don't you'll get dirty and cut your hands ~ bam ~ she had the clip off ~ anyway got the passenger side done ~ I'll try the driver side tomorrow ~ then I'll have to go back to check the torque on plugs 3 & 4 to satisfy myself they're tight enough ```
I used a 3/8" drive ratchet ~ I was trying to judge to 20 -25 lbs ~ not satisfied with the back two ```

How do you tighten plugs 4 can you get your torque wrench in there ~ or ```

Rich


Plugs that were removed were 22WM & 1 aftermarket coil ~ and only the bottom 5 threads were engaged ~ same with the new plugs I installed is that true of all 2001 5.4 2V in F150s ```

 

I looked in my manual and you should be able to get at #4 by removing the dog house.

How are you judging torque? The only way to consistently get the correct torque is with a calibrated torque wrench. I use a Precision Instruments split beam torque wrench with flexible head. I keep in a box above my computer and take it out for special occasions like spark plugs and tightening bolts that go into softer material like aluminum.

 

Greetings Coolfeet ~ No doghouse 2001 F150 5.4 ``` yeh I got all plugs on the right side but didn't us my torque wrench will go back to plugs 3-4 to satisfy myself they are tight enough ~ I set the torque by superhuman feel ```

I have my old trusty torque wrench ~ I may employ that ```

I re injured my ribs yesterday ~ I may have to put off doing the plugs for a bit ```

 

JWA, I removed 6 out of plugs. I am perplexed at removing the COP bolts on #3 & 7. I can reach #3 from the front (it's a long reach) and I am afraid of dropping the bolt. As far as #7, I finally got the COP bolt loose by using a Cobalt pass-through socket. I tightened it back up as I have been wrenching for 6 hours and need a break. Do you have any tips for #3 & #7?

My 2 boys and wife are in Texas for national debate tournament and I am all alone.

My 18-year son has excellent motor skills and I know he can reach bolts to remove the COP and will be able to thread them back in. I will pay him $30 per bolt removed and reinstalled.

 

JWA, Some of your older posts list 23 ft/lbs for the torque. Did you increase it to 25 ft/lbs when you started using nickel anti-seize?

 

If the worst case scenario of a dropped COP bolt does happen---its not a big deal really. The engine valley just under the intake will capture it, an extendable magnetic pick-up tool will retrieve it easily enough. Have a bright light when working on the 5.4 in a van---obviously it makes seeing much easier. The bolt won't get lost however if you can't immediately find it look in the wiring harnesses running through that part of the engine.

There's no real trick to removing COP bolts but I did buy a 7mm 1/4" drive magnetic socket, one each standard and a deep well. These are used ONLY for COP bolts and they work well for this. Generally if you can see the bolt heads removing and re-installing them isn't difficult. Granted the space is crowded.

BTW I R & R 6 plugs and COP's from inside the cabin---I don't have a long reach arm-wise but even so the "back 6" are easy from inside. I go a bit over board with #1 & #5 removing the air filter housing and all duct work back to the throttle body. This step is akin to removing a seat---the amount of room it creates is pretty amazing if only in my mind.

FWIW I've NEVER installed a plug in these engines without the nickel anti-seize. When my new Ford reman'd engine was ready to be installed I removed each plug the factory had installed, coated them with nickel anti-seize and torqued to my specs.

So I've not really changed my process but should be a bit more careful typing specification numbers.

I use anywhere from 23 ft/lbs to 25 ft/lbs---we can say 24 too? Honestly anywhere between the 23 & 25 would work fine. The main thing to keep in mind we the plugs torqued more than the factory spec of, get THIS: 7-14 ft/lbs.

I really haven't changed my process but should be more careful typing specification numbers.

 

This what I was referring to when I asked if you changed your procedure. I have read through many of your old posts and I always read that you used nickel based anti-seize. Then when I read this, I misunderstood and thought this was something new. I should have known. You are old school consistent. You have one torque wrench just for plugs.

I keep special tools just for special jobs. A friend of mine keeps separate toolboxes for doing work around the home. He will not mix with automotive repair. This makes sense as the tool that I need most of will certainly be lost if it goes back and forth.

 

I'll take that first part as a compliment?!?!

But yeah its good practice keeping specialized tools separate from the automotive stuff. Since a lot of my work tools can do double duty they're kept in the work truck---its easier for me that way. Now toss in a woman who'll use a BFH to crack walnuts and she knows just the place to find one.......and suddenly your "system" is blown all the hell.