I'm making this thread to document my journey to repowering my 2004 Ex with a First Gen Cummins 12v Motor.

(04/19/2015)
Picked up a P-pump'd 12v from a private party for $1200. Motor was rebuilt, has new turbo, removed fuel plate, looks to be in good shape.

Also got:

Alternator (Dodge)
Starter (Dodge/Cummins)
Vacuum pump (for brakes and steering)
Part of a down pipe
Air horn for inter-cooling



Parts I need to find locally, or order online:

FordCummins motor mounts
Dodge AC compressor and bracket
FordCummins AC Dodge-> Ford AC adapter (line converter)
Fuel hose
Fuel line fittings
Intake
6.0 Radiator
6.0 Intercooler
Intercooler tubing
Battery Tray
Cummins paint (for the engine)
NV273 Dodge Input shaft (converts the stock electric transfercase to work with a dodge trans)
Exhaust parts (5" elbows, tubing, etc) for making a proper downpipe and exhaust.
47RE or a 48rh

The plan here is to have this installed and working for less than 4 grand total, cost of motor and trans included. Seems like people ask for the world with the diesel excursions, so when it's all said and done, I should be in for less than 8 grand total and have none of the reliability issues.

 

Love watching these builds, be sure to include tons of pics!

Also - there will be quite a few "reliability" issues involved with getting the Fummins working correctly. A lot of gremlins and such to chase down. Goodluck!

 

Just as long as it runs and drives, I can iron out the gremlins. Towing with the 5.4 is a joke.

 

Well, good luck. I'll take notes so I can replicate! Is the motor "stock" or are you going to upgrade it a bit? Don't forget to add pics at any time!

 

And subscribing...

 

A tip, the stock center dump exhaust manifold configuration apparently interferes with the heater box in our trucks/super dutys.

I picked up a 3rd gen style manifold for my future swap. Tucks the turbo in nice and tight to the block where the factory auto trans heat exchanger mounts.

 

I completely forgot about that!

I'll add an ATS manifold to the list.

My current (and biggest) hold up right now is the transmission.

Since I don't want to pay $800 for an adapter plate, and another $900 for the custom crap to make a Ford transmission bolt up, plus about $1000 more for a diesel transmission, I'm stuck looking at every other option.

I've had so many ideas it's not even funny.

Option 1:
46RH, 47RH

Option 2:
NV4500, Getrag 360, NV5600

Options 3:
Eaton Fuller or similar 6 to 10 speed gear box with a divorced NP205 transfercase.
(Not sure if these would even fit in the trans tunnel without significant work)


So yea, if I'm going to shell out a ton of money anyways for a transmission, I'm probably going with the NV4500 or NV5600, either of which I can marry with my NP273...


Finding a motor took me almost 2 months, finding a trans needs to happen faster.

@Gots_A_Sol

I see you have a bellhousing, are you going NV or Auto?

 

NV4500.

I owned/drove the dodge that donated this engine/trans for a few years prior to buying the Ex. It was a 2wd so I had to convert the trans to 4wd, which I wrapped up last week.



I'm just working on picking up as many of the small parts I need for the swap now. Hope to do it in July since that is the soonest I'll have any time to do it.

 

Another great thread to follow along with, Excellent.

 

Definitely subscribing. Note paper and pen in hand awaiting pictures.

 

Good start man, Im in the process of getting my donor home for tear down. Its a 95 4x4 3500 12v, going in my 04 V10 Ex. Been putting parts together for 3 yrs. Now its time for the migrains to begin! one thing I have goin is I have the complete running donor.

 

You guys are making me itch... badly....

3 kids and 3 different DJ businesses I'm constantly using my X for what it's perfect for. Hauling people... and stuff. I love the Truck....BUT

I absolutely HATE the V10 in my 03. There is no power for... ANYTHING! LOL empty it drives ok I guess, still gutless. 8mpg empty is painful. 11mpg on the highway... maybe... and that's WITH intake, headers, y pipe, exhaust and a programmer.

So... I have a 96 Ram 3500 that's been my... toy for the last 10 yearsm prior to that, my daily driver (owned it since 01). Even driving it like I stole it, I got 15mpg. For the last couple years, I haven't driven it other than to pull Large (30 foot or larger) trailers for friends, or to go camping. In the last 4 years I've put maybe 5000 miles on it. It's about 550hp, built trans, etc....

Since I hate the V10 so much I've been thinking about just swapping over the entire driveline of my Ram... Although I may keep the Tcase out of the X... from what I have read it's a better unit than the 241DHD.

You guys may be a bad influence...... LOL

 

The v10 with 4.30's wasn't THAT bad but when I swapped in the 05+ axles with 3.73's it was a total dog. I towed my enclosed trailer for one trip then commited to a cylinder-ectomy.





I've got the engine/trans/t-case mounted in there now, just working on hooking everything up. I ended up using the factory exhaust manifold just flipped over for clearance. The older engine didn't have any provision for an oil drain when using the newer style rear mount manifold without welding a bung in the pan. Plus it looks cool with the turbo up there haha.

I created more work for myself because I wanted to keep the ford a/c compressor and alternator (parts are easier to get and my a/c works very well so I didn't want to break the system). I put the a/c compressor on top and alt on the bottom because the shape of the a/c lines put them directly in line with the water outlet. Can't win them all I guess.






I'm running an nv4500 trans and used the stock ford transfer case, just had to swap the input shaft to match the dodge splines. One thing to note is the clocking of the t-case is slightly different so I had to notch the crossmember to clear the shift motor. Drive shafts are about 2-2.5"off now (front too long, rear too short). I already cut down the front and rewelded it. I measured the rear shaft in my parts truck (super duty ext. cab, short bed 7.3/auto/4wd) and it appears to be the correct length.


I modded the original throttle cable bracket (added a new tab, not pictured). Just have to tie up a big loop in the cable. I may get a Lokar cable in the future if this doesn't work out.




The stock battery tray can be flipped from the passenger side to the drivers side. 2 of the 4 bolts line right up, the other 2 just need to be drilled.



I used the stock 1st gen dodge engine mounts. I have about an 1" from the back valve cover to the firewall (hard to tell exactly because of the sound proofing) and 4.75" from the fan clutch hub to the radiator core.




I converted to hydroboost when I had the v10 (using factory ford parts), so I just needed a new line from the pump to booster. Once you remove the steel elbow off of the booster, you can use a chevy line. I had the line already from a previous vehicle, but I'm pretty sure it is Gates #368610

 

PERFECT!

That's a pile of info I wanted to know... LOL

Honestly I think you are going to save yourself work by using the Ford AC compressor. Trying to get or make lines to use the Cummins compressor would be difficult... I think..

Building a couple brackets is pretty easy on that engine, there are quite a few places to bolt up to. I'm debating adding an on-board air compressor when I do the swap as well.

 

how much time do you think you have into your swap so far gots_a_sol?