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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 09:55 PM
  #16  
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gots_a_sol
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From: Charles Town, WV
Originally Posted by 03V10Excursion
PERFECT!

That's a pile of info I wanted to know... LOL

Honestly I think you are going to save yourself work by using the Ford AC compressor. Trying to get or make lines to use the Cummins compressor would be difficult... I think..

Building a couple brackets is pretty easy on that engine, there are quite a few places to bolt up to. I'm debating adding an on-board air compressor when I do the swap as well.
Yea the a/c lines seemed like a pain since they would have to be custom lines.

I had OBA with a York compressor on this engine back when it was in my dodge. I really miss it and that was the only reason I almost kept the stock dodge alternator (I had a conversion pulley on it to drive a v-belt for the York). I still have the York so I may try and fit it back on there somewhere in the future.

Originally Posted by 03V10Excursion
how much time do you think you have into your swap so far gots_a_sol?
I pulled the v10 last Tuesday and just put a few hours in it each day. I wanted to have it done by this weekend but slow shipping on parts is probably going kill that plan.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 10:46 PM
  #17  
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I purchased all the stuff a number of years ago for OBA on my Ram, just haven't done it. I think the compressor I had gotten may be toast by now. It's been floating around my garage for 10 years now.

So... a couple hours a day for 2 weeks... so 30ish hours? Not bad! I'm hoping if I do pull the trigger... 2 days of solid work and be able to drive it out... lol
 
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 07:48 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by rowingdude
I completely forgot about that!

I'll add an ATS manifold to the list.

My current (and biggest) hold up right now is the transmission.

Since I don't want to pay $800 for an adapter plate, and another $900 for the custom crap to make a Ford transmission bolt up, plus about $1000 more for a diesel transmission, I'm stuck looking at every other option.

I've had so many ideas it's not even funny.

Option 1:
46RH, 47RH

Option 2:
NV4500, Getrag 360, NV5600

Options 3:
Eaton Fuller or similar 6 to 10 speed gear box with a divorced NP205 transfercase.
(Not sure if these would even fit in the trans tunnel without significant work)


So yea, if I'm going to shell out a ton of money anyways for a transmission, I'm probably going with the NV4500 or NV5600, either of which I can marry with my NP273...


Finding a motor took me almost 2 months, finding a trans needs to happen faster.

@Gots_A_Sol

I see you have a bellhousing, are you going NV or Auto?
Maybe a little late but I just got my 47rh put in today and it seems it will work pretty well with the crossmember from my v10 maybe a lil fab tomorrow, we'll see in the morning.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 06:13 AM
  #19  
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Oldguyfl
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Originally Posted by eternal_177
Maybe a little late but I just got my 47rh put in today and it seems it will work pretty well with the crossmember from my v10 maybe a lil fab tomorrow, we'll see in the morning.
Never too late. Keep the pics coming.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 09:28 AM
  #20  
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I'm curious, as I'm doing a 24 valve swap later on...

Are you going to have clearance under the cowl to do any head work in the future? Will you be able to get the pushrods out from cylinders 5 and 6?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 01:26 PM
  #21  
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gots_a_sol
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From: Charles Town, WV
Originally Posted by Pele
I'm curious, as I'm doing a 24 valve swap later on...

Are you going to have clearance under the cowl to do any head work in the future? Will you be able to get the pushrods out from cylinders 5 and 6?
You'll have to do like Dodge did to their trucks and make holes in the cowl for the push rods to lift up far enough.


Hole for #5 rods. I had to make another one further back to get the #6 rods out. This is on my 12v, not sure how a 24v differs.



Other than having to deal with those push rods, the head came right out easy peasy.

 
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Old Dec 30, 2015 | 10:13 AM
  #22  
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^

Maybe it's the angle of the picture... It doesn't look like you could get another hole further back. And it looks like that pushrod for #5 is hitting that cowl bracket.

The 24 Valve head is about the same as the 12 Valve. (Some people take the 24 Valve head and put it on a P7100 pumped engine... Even the Common Rail 5.9 fits, but there's a boss that needs grinding.) It's got Y or T shaped rockers to hit two valves instead of one.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2015 | 11:35 AM
  #23  
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gots_a_sol
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From: Charles Town, WV
Well it is there, if you look closely at my second pic, you can just make out the back hole (it is right on the reinforcement rib about 2" behind the first hole).

And there is room to get the rods out, just takes a little wiggling. Basically lift the rod straight up till it clears the head then angle it and pull it out.


Good to know the heads are pretty similar.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2015 | 12:46 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by gots_a_sol
Well it is there, if you look closely at my second pic, you can just make out the back hole (it is right on the reinforcement rib about 2" behind the first hole).

And there is room to get the rods out, just takes a little wiggling. Basically lift the rod straight up till it clears the head then angle it and pull it out.


Good to know the heads are pretty similar.
Thanks, I see it in the 2nd pic. Looks like two 3/4 inch hole or one long oval hole should do the trick.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 09:13 PM
  #25  
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Great swap anyone have a step by step on how to do this swap?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2016 | 08:15 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by AllAboutDaZ
Great swap anyone have a step by step on how to do this swap?
There are all kinds of instructions and how to lists and videos online. Im in the middle of one now and its not hard if you are motivated. Lol alot of this will be goin on
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 09:26 PM
  #27  
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ok... silly question...

Do you have a parts list of things you wish you would have bought or things you wish you wouldn't have bought?

When I get my taxes back I plan on starting to purchase the parts I need for this swap.

I'd rather not buy mounts for $300, when I can get first gen Cummins mounts for WAY cheaper. Things like that....

Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 10:09 PM
  #28  
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gots_a_sol
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From: Charles Town, WV
I didn't need to get my truck done in a hurry so I just did a little work, ordered parts, did some work, ordered more parts, etc.

The only extra parts I bought are some AN fittings (changed my mind on routing) and a 3rd gen style exhaust manifold (flipped the stocker and that worked fine).


I did 1st gen dodge mounts since I had them and they were easy/cheap.


The only complaints I have are 1) haven't put my on board air back together and 2) I wish I had a 6 speed trans as the gaps are little bigger than I'd like (tire size/axle gear ratios works out taller than my old dodge)
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 01:55 PM
  #29  
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You said first gen mounts. So you got the entire assembly from the block out to the rubber mount and used that? I was looking at my 96 and it has a much different design than my 92 had. (I shouldn't have sold that truck)
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 02:03 PM
  #30  
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gots_a_sol
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From: Charles Town, WV
My engine came from a 93, so I already had the 1st gen mounts. Anchor #2710 for new rubber pieces, about $15 per side (same side to side)

 
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