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hey guys so I've replaced my master cylinder on my 67 f100 and now I've got brake fluid leaking all around the cap done everything but replace the cap and seal and it seems like every little thing I do to try to stop it makes it worse any suggestions are helpful
I have had the same happen, and made a second gasket from innertube. You may also try bending the wire clamp for a tighter grip. Do you by any chance still have to old one that you could double up with?
no I don't have the old one anymore because the guy at the parts store took it as a core charge and one of the things I have done is been the the handle that tightens it up
If you have the Chinese made one like, I bought then it will keep leaking.
I've found they changed the lid cover air vent to the side lip wall area that pukes B-fluid no matter what you do.
I found a new aftermarket chrome one made to the OEM type specs where the air vent is in the upper top of the lid cover near the wire clip lock area.
Orich
If it is a remanufactured part, the top edge is probably rusted and pitted where the rubber seal is supposed to seal. In which case it's not going to seal. I took mine off, put it in the mill and killed off the top surface until it was down to smooth clean metal again. You could use a large flat file, or maybe smooth the pits with some rtv, but i don't know if it's brake fluid resistant or not.
2X Orich and 351 at the same time. They are both at the same thing but didn't know it. I think it prolly is the cap as Orich stated. With the Chinese vent going across the cap's sealing surface it creates an uneven sealing surface just as 351's pits would. I'd try an aftermarket chrome cap like Orich did. If your sealing surface is pitted as 351 posted, File away from the brake fluid. We don't want any foreign media in the brake fluid. And be quick about it. Brake fluid sucks up moisture out of the air like you read about.
Using a File hmm, I'd remove the M/c dump the B-fluid and clean it with alcohol or a fast spray of brake cleaner. May be put a rug inside keep out any crap. I'd use some large sheets of pretty rough & fine wet & dry sandpaper.
Turn the cylinder upside down with the open well facing the sandpaper and block sand the sealing surface area until it will seal good.
Clean rinse out air dry. Bench bleed check for any grit from sanding in fluid as your bleeding cyl. then install it. Now only if all pitted leaking from their.
I ordered a new Master form Rock Auto that ended up at costing me $58 bucks with tax & Shipping.
If, I knew it was going to end up costing this much, I'd bought it at a loco part store and returned it with the funky lid the way the Chinese altered the vent was about the dumbest think, I've ever seen do and why.
If it's was not broken don't fix it when it worked for so many yrs.
I even tried to flatten out the side cap vent level but still leaked but not as much.
Even there wire retainer clip was thinner gauge wire and just bent out of shape and would not hold any pressure on the lid cap..
I promised myself to never buy brake parts again online, turn around time takes to long when your need your vehicle back on the road sooner then 10-12 days if your lucky it with in that time slot..
Orich
Never turn in a core until you know the replacement actually works.
That way there is no pressure at the store to complete the transaction. If something goes awry, then the replacement and original can be closely inspected and compared.
Before you give up, try a couple of radiator hose clamps around the body and cap.
Oh John don't give him any of those red neck fix it ideas, like get Robert the gangster mentioned a few times. If it stop leaking that way he may just leave it many yrs. or until he sell it.
What would a buyer think when seeing those red-neck mickey mouse fixes the rest of the trucks condition.
Orich
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