Help Diagnose Temp Gauge
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Forgot - the ICVR has nothing to do with the ammeter. Only the temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, and fuel gauge.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Stockdale, Tejas
gotcha, gonna go try it out.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Stockdale, Tejas
Man do i feel stupid, I think today I posted, check the basics and recheck, So went and pulled the temp sensor. Yeah it was junk, I have a 83 CJ with a hopped up V8 in it, well I replaced that temp sensor, not this one. (Old age is catching up .... and quick
) So anyways, 12 bucks later and minimal teflon, and its riding right on the R. Man Gary I sure am sorry to drag you through this but I dang sure do appreciate the help. And I learned a lot, especially about the voltage regulator.
Thanks for keeping me from yanking out the dash ...again
) So anyways, 12 bucks later and minimal teflon, and its riding right on the R. Man Gary I sure am sorry to drag you through this but I dang sure do appreciate the help. And I learned a lot, especially about the voltage regulator.Thanks for keeping me from yanking out the dash ...again
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Glad you got it fixed. And no worries about going through it. I'm happy to help - especially someone who does a good job of explaining. 
Now, on to the alternator. The ammeters on these trucks are pretty abysmal. In fact, I've had the one for Dad's truck converted to a volt meter. Anyway, if your ammeter is jumping then you have a problem because it is really unusual for them to move at all, much less jump.
I'd put a volt meter on it and find out if the voltage is jumping just like the gauge. I'm pretty sure it is, but you have to check.
Now, on to the alternator. The ammeters on these trucks are pretty abysmal. In fact, I've had the one for Dad's truck converted to a volt meter. Anyway, if your ammeter is jumping then you have a problem because it is really unusual for them to move at all, much less jump.
I'd put a volt meter on it and find out if the voltage is jumping just like the gauge. I'm pretty sure it is, but you have to check.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
12.67 is about fully charged, so you haven't been running w/o an alternator. And 14.14 is pretty good at idle 'cause these alternators don't throw much there. So, I think you are right - the ammeter is bad. Maybe it has a bad connection some place.
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Senior User
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From: Stockdale, Tejas
I'll check the connections at the Alternator first tonight, I went out and watched it for a second last night, and the ammeter would peg (to the right) when revved, I sure don't remember that happening with the old cluster. At this point I would bet it is the gauge, but will eliminate anything I can prior to pulling and replacing the "newer" gauge for the old.
Thanks again. Once more down the rabbit hole
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Actually, it sounds like this one might be working correctly and the old one didn't, although pegging might be a bit much. But, if you think about it, the voltage on the battery will be down somewhat right after starting due to the current pulled from it during starting. So the alternator should be re-charging the battery right after starting. However, since these alternators don't put out much at idle, if you start it and then let it idle the needle should stay in the middle. But if you then rev it the alternator should throw up to maybe 60 amps for a bit, which would essentially peg the ammeter.
I'd drive it with that ammeter for several days and watch it. Perhaps you now have a working unit - which would be one of the very few in captivity. Anyway, it should gradually go back to the center after starting as the battery gets fully charged.
I'd drive it with that ammeter for several days and watch it. Perhaps you now have a working unit - which would be one of the very few in captivity. Anyway, it should gradually go back to the center after starting as the battery gets fully charged.
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Senior User
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From: Stockdale, Tejas
Will do, I wasn't exactly looking forward to pulling the cluster anyway. and at idle it does float (albeit erratically) around the center. And for what its worth the PO did install a brand new alternator (remanned), right before I bought it.
I'll get an update, posted in a week or so, I'm just tickled pink to have the rest of the gauges working correctly.
Thanks Again
I'll get an update, posted in a week or so, I'm just tickled pink to have the rest of the gauges working correctly.
Thanks Again
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
It sounds like you have a really sensitive ammeter, and that it is working. That's almost unheard of on these trucks. Also, it appears that the new alternator, and hopefully regulator, is working well. Drive it and enjoy.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I have a fully-functioning factory ammeter that works great; I even made a video of it once but never uploaded it as I got distracted.
Point being, all his negative talk about the things - which is based on a sample size of 0.0000002% of the population - is unfounded in my mind.
Point being, all his negative talk about the things - which is based on a sample size of 0.0000002% of the population - is unfounded in my mind.
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