Homemade Lizardskin Update
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,599
Likes: 34
From: Rockingham, VA
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,511
Likes: 1
From: peyton, colorado
Ross, if you're thinking about doing it to your finished truck, you may want to mix it thick and brush it on. You could remove one interior panel at a time, brush it on and replace the panel. I don't know how Charlie sprayed his, but when I brushed mine I made multiple coats. Lizard Skin says the thickness of a credit card, or .040" is good. I used two or three coats to get that thickness.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 652
From: Brentwood, TN
A Schutz gun works great, not too much splatter and much easier than a roller or brush. I have shot the inside of doors without removing the door, just be careful around the window mechanisms. The gun will blow material into all the nooks and crannies nicely.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 402
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
There still seems to be a lot of interest in this topic so I thought that I would provide an update on my work with this material. My 56 F100 is currently "riding the pine" while I finish my 40 Ford coupe. I have the 40 body on a rotisserie and have just finished applying bedliner to the underside of the floors. While I had the body flipped over I noticed how crappy the underside of the roof looked...old asphalt glue and felt stuck to some partially rusty metal. I took the whole roof area down to bare metal and coated it with Rust Seal. I then applied my homemade thermal barrier coating (aka, Lizardskin) to a small area to test the adhesion.
I was pleasantly surprised to see how durable the "new" recipe was and how well it adhered to the Rust Seal. The first picture below shows the test area after I had thoroughly scuffed it with a stainless steel wire brush...no flakes and no adhesion loss.
The second pic shows the base paint I used in this recipe...after reading the label I was convinced that this product would perform much better than the standard exterior latex that I had used in the past.
The third pic shows the inside of the roof after the application of the coating. After this dries it will shrink a bit and lose most of the gloss. Next step is to apply some Dynamat and then a layer of noise suppressing foam and the roof will then be ready to upholster.
I was pleasantly surprised to see how durable the "new" recipe was and how well it adhered to the Rust Seal. The first picture below shows the test area after I had thoroughly scuffed it with a stainless steel wire brush...no flakes and no adhesion loss.
The second pic shows the base paint I used in this recipe...after reading the label I was convinced that this product would perform much better than the standard exterior latex that I had used in the past.
The third pic shows the inside of the roof after the application of the coating. After this dries it will shrink a bit and lose most of the gloss. Next step is to apply some Dynamat and then a layer of noise suppressing foam and the roof will then be ready to upholster.
Im planning to do my panel truck with the micro ***** also but what you think about using a rubberized roof caoting instead of primer to help deadening the sound at the same step so to speak? I was thinking like sta cool from home depot or something simular. Or should I just attack it in two seperate steps. The micro ***** thermal barrier and then a separate sound deadner of my choice? Or since I am thinking about it why not put lead powder in with your primer and microball mixture? Would that even work? Just thinking out loud.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 652
From: Brentwood, TN
Be sure that you are using balloons/spheres and not solid ***** in your mix. There are products out there that are solid (cabosil for one) that are used for thickening and have no thermal barrier qualities. As for the paint component, viscosity and adhesion are the main concerns...if you think that the roofing product will accept the addition of the microspheres in a concentration sufficient to add thermal barrier properties then go for it. Personally I think that it would not be the best carrier that you could choose. I am not sure what lead powder would do other than make your truck toxic but maybe I am missing something.
In my vehicles I strip the inside metal as far down as possible, paint the metal with KBS Rust Seal, blow on two coats of my home-made lizardskin, add some Dynamat for vibration isolation, and then finish with some sound proofing as needed to reduce echoes inside the vehicle.
In my vehicles I strip the inside metal as far down as possible, paint the metal with KBS Rust Seal, blow on two coats of my home-made lizardskin, add some Dynamat for vibration isolation, and then finish with some sound proofing as needed to reduce echoes inside the vehicle.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 402
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
Be sure that you are using balloons/spheres and not solid ***** in your mix. There are products out there that are solid (cabosil for one) that are used for thickening and have no thermal barrier qualities. As for the paint component, viscosity and adhesion are the main concerns...if you think that the roofing product will accept the addition of the microspheres in a concentration sufficient to add thermal barrier properties then go for it. Personally I think that it would not be the best carrier that you could choose. I am not sure what lead powder would do other than make your truck toxic but maybe I am missing something.
In my vehicles I strip the inside metal as far down as possible, paint the metal with KBS Rust Seal, blow on two coats of my home-made lizardskin, add some Dynamat for vibration isolation, and then finish with some sound proofing as needed to reduce echoes inside the vehicle.
In my vehicles I strip the inside metal as far down as possible, paint the metal with KBS Rust Seal, blow on two coats of my home-made lizardskin, add some Dynamat for vibration isolation, and then finish with some sound proofing as needed to reduce echoes inside the vehicle.
No I thought I heard of lead as a sound deadner, maybe in other aplications. but never hear any one using it per say and yes I thought also might be toxic. I will just go what you have done since you have had a lot of expieriance under your belt. I apreciate what you have shared and I thank you. And yes I also purchased Micro Spears from Wicks. Thanks again.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,293
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
No I thought I heard of lead as a sound deadner, maybe in other aplications. but never hear any one using it per say and yes I thought also might be toxic. I will just go what you have done since you have had a lot of expieriance under your belt. I apreciate what you have shared and I thank you. And yes I also purchased Micro Spears from Wicks. Thanks again.
My 54 Won't have any carpet or other interior trim panels so the Dynamat type products won't work for mine. That's why I'm going with the DIY bedliner ( Durabak ) in mine. You can add as many coats as want. And you can add the ceramic micro-spheres to it ( just thin it down as needed ) . So with the micro-spheres and the rubber granular bits in it I'm hoping it will cut down on the sound and heat some. They also offer it in the smooth version.
My plan is to coat the entire interior, except the dash and A-post, with a few coats of the standard stuff. And then do a couple coats of the smooth coating after that on the rear wall and inside the roof.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 652
From: Brentwood, TN
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 652
From: Brentwood, TN
My 54 Won't have any carpet or other interior trim panels so the Dynamat type products won't work for mine. That's why I'm going with the DIY bedliner ( Durabak ) in mine. You can add as many coats as want. And you can add the ceramic micro-spheres to it ( just thin it down as needed ) . So with the micro-spheres and the rubber granular bits in it I'm hoping it will cut down on the sound and heat some. They also offer it in the smooth version.
My plan is to coat the entire interior, except the dash and A-post, with a few coats of the standard stuff. And then do a couple coats of the smooth coating after that on the rear wall and inside the roof.
My plan is to coat the entire interior, except the dash and A-post, with a few coats of the standard stuff. And then do a couple coats of the smooth coating after that on the rear wall and inside the roof.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,293
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dziwei
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
Jun 19, 2018 10:06 PM
bjmayberry2
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
11
Jul 26, 2017 05:32 PM
1966f100ranger
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Aug 20, 2016 07:27 PM