My recently inherited 76 Ford has a wiper motor issue. Fast runs fine but slow does not work at all, and I have no park either. Does anyone know, off-hand, if I need a wiper motor or a switch?
If there are thing I need to check, please let me know what I need to check.




Thanks,
Chris

 

Welcome to FTE, nice inherited truck for sure. Does the switch still have the detente for the slow and off? There is no persay "park", it is off, low, high. They should go to the park position when turned off no matter their current position, in up or down swing.

Unless it might have the XLT delay set up or a previous owner swapped in delay wiper set up? And that might be the problem? The switch is easy to get and replace, getting to it is a little difficult if you have not pulled the dash bezel before.

And yes you have to pull the instrument bezel... but NOT the instrument cluster to get to the switch. Motor replacement is another story all together, but not that bad.

 

Here you go: Dash bezel removal is first: Disconnect the battery, and reach up under the dash find the release button on the headlight switch. Push the button and pull the **** and shaft out as one piece. If you can not find it read on….

Then remove the 5 screws first. Far left between the headlight/wiper *****, there are 2 screws, 1 between the *****, and 1 above it, going in straight up. Moving right there are 2 more screws. 1 in the middle, 1 far right, both pointing straight up. Section heater control there is 1 screw pointing straight up.

Heater controls are in behind the dash plastic, they stay where they are, but you will slide/squeeze the levers out of way to prevent them from hooking on the dash bezel.
To remove the wiper **** it has a release clip on its shaft that you can put pressure on with small flat tip screwdriver in the tiny slot, press and release and slide the **** off.

Radio may be behind or in front the dash bezel, depending on how previous owner (P.O.) installed it. If its factory or shaft style, pull the ***** off the radio and you will see shallow nuts on the shafts. Clean the shaft threads with elec cleaner and small brush, because the shafts will strip VERY easily, use a deep set socket on them. Once the nuts are removed, there should be a plastic or metal radio plate to remove. Behind that are 2 more screws holding dash bezel to a metal bracket. But not always…

Okay, under the 3 sections that you see the gauges in, under the middle one there is a plastic tab from the dash bezel that is tucked behind the metal part of the dash. You can see the metal cutout area for it, when the headlight ****/shaft is pulled out or removed all together you can pull up on the plastic dash bezel to get the plastic tab out of the slot.

If you could not find the headlight ****/shaft release button earlier. With all screws out of dash and radio loose, you should be able to tilt it forward and see the headlight switch directly behind where the headlight **** is. So with the shaft pulled out like the headlights are on, you tilt the plastic dash bezel forward to get your hand above the switch and feel for a metal button to press and hold to release the headlight shaft from the headlight switch. **** and shaft will slide out as one piece with the button held down.

If you HAVE to pull the cluster here you go:

Cluster assembly is mounted with 4 screws, once they are out, CAREFULLY pull fwd on the assembly just a little. You need it fwd just enough to get a hand on the speedo cable white plastic connector. If you can not get it fwd enough, push yourself some slack in the cable from the eng compartment.

Then using your hand (best idea) or a small pair of pliers CAREFULLY squeeze the white clip till the cable comes out of the cluster (the white clip will come with it). DO NOT PRY on the clip, it will break and then you have another issue.

Squeeze the sides of the main electrical connector and it should release.

 

It is standard off, low, and high, as far as I can tell, with windshield washer. Three knotches that I can feel.
The "park" I am referring to is where we all expect our wipers to go when we turn them off, to the bottom of the windshield.

Thanks,
Chris

 

Like turn on the key and they are on high, and will not shut off? I would ck under the dash for any wiring chaffing, shorting, mice marks, and then change the switch. Does it have a none factory stereo? Some people get power from places they should not.

You can do a quick test with a new wiper switch, just unplug the one in the dash now (from the back side of the switch) and hang plug into the new one and see what you get, maybe working wipers?

Once you get the dash bezel off, there is a 3 notched lock ring that holdes the wiper switch into the dash. You can use a set of pliers or vice grips to get the ring off and then remove it and then simply un plug the switch.

 

I think he's saying when he turns it off the wipers don't properly return to a park position. That would be a motor issue, I think.

 

It could be they need to be taken off and put back on the studs correctly too?

 

The wiper motor is the same with or without intermittent (delay) wipers (see upper pic below):

C7TZ-17508-D .. Wiper Motor (Motorcraft WM-225): 1967/72 F100/750; 1973/74 Econoline; 1973/79 F100/880.

Intermittent wipers were optional for all 1973/79 F100/350 Customs, Rangers, Ranger XLT's and 1978/79 Lariats. But are usually only found on XLT's & Lariats. Also optional for 1978/79 Bronco's.

The intermittent wiper switch (D1OZ-17A553-A / Motorcraft SW-1010) is the same: 1971 Fairlane/Torino/Montego; 1973/79 F100/350 & 1978/79 Bronco.

D3TZ-17C476-A (replaced D1ZZ-17C476-A) .. Intermitternt Wiper Governor: 1971/73 Mustang/Cougar & 1973/77 F100/350.

D8TZ-17C476-A .. Intermittent Wiper Governor: 1978/79 F100/350 & Bronco.

 

AT least I was 1/2 right on the what could have intermittent wipers.

"Unless it might have the XLT delay set up", and you still me.

Jesh....

 

Ford called them intermittent wipers, but some people call them delay wipers.

Here are the pages from the parts catalog listing the 17C476 wiper governors (left pic) and 17A553 wiper switches (right pic).

 

I was messing with it some more, and found if I quickly turn it to High then back to Off, the wipers will park like they are supposed to. If I pause or stop on low before going to off, they remain wherever they were when I went to the low setting.

Thanks,
Chris

 

First of to Rich and Bill I always get a chuckle out of you two heckling each other on here. Heheh. Now that that's over, back to the original posters question. It definitely sounds to me like your issue is with the switch itself. These almost always fail where as the motor rarely fails. The good thing is they are readily available. And general fairly inexpensive to get. Also as Rich pointed out much easier to swap out as well.

 

OK, so I'm gonna order a switch. What is involved in making them intermittent, beside a different switch? Am I going to have to track down a governor box, one of them that's no longer available? Is it not worth the trouble?

Thanks,
Chris

 

There is a module besides the switch. These are the parts you would need, though you can probably find them cheaper at a junkyard:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261584124152?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Shucks, that price is the same as new for just the switch. Thanks a bunch. I'm gonna order that.
Does the box just hang under the dash, or is there a particular way it is supposed to be mounted?

Thanks,
Chris