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My rule of thumb for seating or preloading new front wheel bearings is tightening them until the wheel won't spin, loosen and repeat one more time. After the second time torque them to no more than 15 ft/lbs and you should be good to go. As a precaution after driving about 50-75 miles recheck for overly tight or loose bearings, wheels off the ground naturally. HTH
This. ^^ NEW tapered roller bearings/race installation actually require way more preload and torque compared to USED bearings (just getting an inspection/repack.)
What usually happens then, is peeps install new bearings too loose, though the used bearings end up being adjusted too tight. Not the end of the world but it's worth doing correctly.
Once bearings have run in a little bit bearing adjustment only requires the spindle nut little more than hand tight. It's kind of a "feel" thing, while spinning the wheel. All the major bearing manufacturers like SKF and Timken have installation instructions too. If you dig around they are free, in .pdf form available for download.
Come on guys, give the guy a hand... anyone got a shop manual/CD laying around?
When I checked my CD-ROM factory service manual for this operation there was no published or specified procedure with steps required or torque values listed. IIRC there was mention only of "not too tight or too loose" or something to that effect. That manual covered '97 E250 chassis.
I was a bit surprised or shocked that a factory manual didn't have something specific listed. My info posted here was from a long time mechanic running his own shop at the time, mid-80's.
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