hack wire removal/fix, need some help
hack wire removal/fix, need some help
I'm pretty sure I've removed all of the crappy wiring done by the PO.
Not sure that if I got enough of it though lol...

I'll make multiple posts to make sure I don't type a bunch and then screw it all up some how (I'm limited to mobile uploading) so please bear with my on multiple posts!
Not sure that if I got enough of it though lol...

I'll make multiple posts to make sure I don't type a bunch and then screw it all up some how (I'm limited to mobile uploading) so please bear with my on multiple posts!
Some weird vacuum (?) Lines that T into this fitting, I have no idea what its for, anybody know?

This one is hard to explain, it has 2 wires coming in from the passenger side and 3 exiting on the drivers side.
2 of the wires on the drivers side go into harness that goes towards the rear drivers side marker/tail lights, and the other WAS tied into the trailer plug but I cut it out of that mess of wire.
On the passenger side one, as you can see, trails off to nothing. The other travels into harness that looks to go to the passenger side marker light.

This one is hard to explain, it has 2 wires coming in from the passenger side and 3 exiting on the drivers side.
2 of the wires on the drivers side go into harness that goes towards the rear drivers side marker/tail lights, and the other WAS tied into the trailer plug but I cut it out of that mess of wire.
On the passenger side one, as you can see, trails off to nothing. The other travels into harness that looks to go to the passenger side marker light.
"hack patrol" is an adventure unto itself....
All I know is the female bullet connector in the bottom pic is for the license plate lights.
Btw, female bullet connectors are typically the hot side of the circuit. Why you ask? Because if it were a male connector and unconnected, then it could easily ground out and blow a fuse. So when doing wiring in your own, insulated female spades and bullets should be "upstream" of the signal voltage. Makes sense, right?
All I know is the female bullet connector in the bottom pic is for the license plate lights.
Btw, female bullet connectors are typically the hot side of the circuit. Why you ask? Because if it were a male connector and unconnected, then it could easily ground out and blow a fuse. So when doing wiring in your own, insulated female spades and bullets should be "upstream" of the signal voltage. Makes sense, right?
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"hack patrol" is an adventure unto itself....
All I know is the female bullet connector in the bottom pic is for the license plate lights.
Btw, female bullet connectors are typically the hot side of the circuit. Why you ask? Because if it were a male connector and unconnected, then it could easily ground out and blow a fuse. So when doing wiring in your own, insulated female spades and bullets should be "upstream" of the signal voltage. Makes sense, right?
All I know is the female bullet connector in the bottom pic is for the license plate lights.
Btw, female bullet connectors are typically the hot side of the circuit. Why you ask? Because if it were a male connector and unconnected, then it could easily ground out and blow a fuse. So when doing wiring in your own, insulated female spades and bullets should be "upstream" of the signal voltage. Makes sense, right?
Interesting, I didn't see any wiring near that little box. Was that optional? Or did the PO do a little wire removal himself?
Yes it does. Interesting because I see no other sign of air shocks. Thank you for the help!
This reminds me of a story a co-worker told me years ago: He bought a used International Scout, and it had all kinds of electrical problems. He looked under the dash and found a spaghetti mess of wires everywhere and ALL of the wires were blue! The previous owner must have had a big spool of blue wire, and he rewired EVERYTHING with it!
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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Oct 19, 2014 01:59 PM














