Welcome to FTE, first of all.

I have seen the valve body gasket on many explorers and rangers blown out and the reverse servo gasket also. You need to see if there are any codes and go from there. Let us know what you find so we can continue to try to help.

 

Thanks! I'm looking forward to a long membership here, seeing as how i work for Ford now, and I'll probably be driving Ford trucks for many years to come.

When you say codes, you refer to error codes thrown by the computer? Excuse my ignorance, but is there a way I can get the OBDII to flash the codes? I haven't bought a Haynes or a Chilton's yet. Which do you all recommend?

 

Yeah, the codes in the PCM(computer). If your dealership is anything like the one I worked at, any of the techs will probably pull the codes for you for free and give you ideas on what to do next. If not let us know and we will try to help.

 

Ponyracer,

I have 93 Ranger 3.0 V-6 with 180K miles. The trans has never touched other than changing the fluild. I was wondering if the band adjustment is the as the one you discribed about.

 

Here is the directions that are for your application and year of vehicle per the 93-94 ford truck manual. It appears the same as the previous instructions but I printed them anyway to make sure. I hope this helps.

Band Adjustment


Intermediate Band Adjustment

CAUTION:
Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut (388307-S100) on the adjusting screw (7C492). Apply petroleum jelly to locknut seal.

34. Tighten the adjusting screw (7C492) using the Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A.

NOTE:
The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 ft-lb).

35. Back off the adjusting screw (7C492) exactly two turns and hold in that position. Tighten the locknut (388307-S100) to 47-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb) using a 19mm wrench.




Overdrive Band Adjustment

CAUTION:
Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut (388307-S100) on adjustment screw (7C492). Apply petroleum jelly to locknut seal.

36. Tighten the adjusting screw (7C492) using the Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A.

NOTE:
The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 ft-lb).

37. Back off the adjusting screw (7C492) exactly two turns and hold that position. Tighten locknut (388307-S100) to 47-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb) using a 19mm wrench.

 

I HAVE A F-250 DIESEL TRUCK. AUTOMATIC W/ OVERDRIVE 1990. TRUCK WAS FINE TILL OUR DOG CHEWED ALL THE WIRES INTO UNDER THE TRUCK. FIXED THEM BACK THEN THE GEARS WOULD NOT CHANGE LIKE THEY WERE SUPPOST TO. THEN TRANSMISSION FLUID STARTED LEAKING. CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION SEALS AND THAT STOPPED THE LEAK. NOW THE GEARS ARE SLIPPING. WHEN YOU MASH THE DIESEL PETAL THE ENGINE REAVES HIGH AND JERKS HARD WHEN CHANGING GEARS AND ALSO WILL NOT DOWNSHIFT NOW. CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE OUT WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS TRUCK?

 

Jim - what would I need to buy to pull engine.tran codes?

Here is a post I did to another guy who seemed to be having a similar problem -

Pancho - what was the verdict on your problem? I have a 2wd 94 sport with 242,000 that seems to do the same thing. I just recently started pulling a 14ft trailer with dirt bikes and ATV's.

Because it is older and I was going to be pulling a trailer, I installed a 180 deg. thermostat instead of the 194deg. stock one. when the old one failed.

I did make one mistake pulling the trailer - I ran in over drive with the cruise for about an hour and the check engine light came on. I sat for 30 min because I assumed I had heated the transmission. I drove it in drive for the rest of the trip without the cruise and had no probs. No engine light since and I have made about 10 two hours trips, but it does take some distance to get it up to speed.

The load weight I am towing is about 2200lbs including the trailer.

Since then the truck builds rpm normally and runs great but doesn't have the get-up-and-go it used to. There is no slip or jerk to the transmission, just feels like the transmission is not delivering power to the rear wheels. This is WITHOUT the trailer.I have always change the filter and fluid regularly. Has a normal red color and smells normal.

My engine is orginal, gets the same mileage it always has, and burns no oil at all. Runs good and revs quick and smooth. I just had the exhaust and Catalytic flow tested which showed 0 backpressure.

My cruise control also started to intermittently not work.

Based on some of the reply's here, I wonder if the engine is running to cool and causing an issue with my torque converter??

Anyone have any ideas??

Thanx

 

jim
i have a 91 302,auto with 134k miles.
trans. seems to downshift hard,ok on acceleration.
noticeable sorta clunk sound & feel.
besides fluid & filter change ...........?
thanx

 

hey Ponyracer, is the adjustment the same for a 2000 explorer with 5r55e trans? And where are the adjustment screws? On the driverside of the trans?

thanks

prs

 

how do I tell which trans I have? Been slipping for a couple of months now and had to add fluid about 1 quart every week. I am getting a little scared reading these post. It also smokes like crazy on intial start offs at stop lights but calms down after. I have a 93 Ranger with the small 4. Any ideas sugesstions would be great. Oh yeah valves are knocking to when I pull offf:-((

Yhanks, Gene

 

Hi,
Having problems getting my brake bands adjusted in the UK as the mechanics over here just don't want to know when they see an autobox.

Anyway, I have a 4R44E box (same as 4R55E) and wondered if anyone knows where to get an adjuster? The code I have for the band adjustment torque wrench is T71P-77370-A. Please HELP!!

P.S. I have tried googling and yahoo of UK and States and nothing.

Cheers