This old tech is new to me!

I've already learned a couple of things just by having a 60 year old truck! The most recent one being that I can "test" a generator by hooking it up to power to see if it spins. Does this indeed mean it is capable of charging?

There is no telling the last time this truck has run. Several years at least I'm guessing. The guy I got it from never got it to run. He cut the fuel line to install a filter but the pump isn't working, or the line from the tank is completely clogged. Anyway, filling the carb bowl with gas, and making a little tank(soda bottle) for it was enough for me to get it started and running. All gears work!

However, I noticed each time I turned it off(over the course of 30 minutes or so), it turned over slower and slower, as if the battery was not charging. Revs didn't affect headlight output, and the ammeter never moved. I figured the generator wasn't charging, so I yanked it off to have it tested. Once I got to the parts store, they couldn't figure out how to test it. Is there a similar generator out there they may have in their system so that they can successfully test it? Oreillys said they need to be able to find it in the system before the tester will even work. If I get back early enough today, I will clean all the connections I can find as they pertain to the charging system.

One last thing, polarizing the generator. Another new piece of information for me. Do I remove the F wire from the generator, and touch it to the battery +(is that the post on the back?)?

Thanks a ton!

 

The run test will only detect open circuits
It will not test load capability
Also check your regulator too
Last be sure the generator is polarized

Find an auto electric shop locally if you want to test it. Of course rebuild will probably be more than a replacement

 

If you are going to run a generator, start from scratch. They are dead simple devices. Two bolts for disassembly. A rebuild kit will include new brushes and bearings and armature. If it hasn't run in a long time polarizing isn't a bad plan.

There is only ONE method on a FORD (type "B") generator system. Remove the BAT and FLD terminals at the regulator (engine OFF) and touch them together momentarily. You may see a spark. Done!

If you use the polarizing method for another make you will likely roast something in the regulator. Make sure the brackets and mounting pads are clean bare metal and tighten securely, charging systems always need bulletproof grounds and connections to work right. As a quick test of ground run a heavy jumper wire from battery negative to generator "G" terminal and see if that helps.

Keep your battery on a charger till things get sorted out. Generators won't charge till engine RPM is north of 1000 or thereabouts. This is one reason alternators replaced them. Short trips around town, night driving, stop and go meant batteries didn't last very long and they didn't have the capacity for lots of electrically hungry power accessories and gee-gaws.

 

Welcome to old iron!

It does sound like your genny is not putting out. Unless your O'Reilly's has different equipment than the new one near me, they can't test generators at all. Look locally for a house that rebuilds alternators - they usually can test and rebuild a generator as well. They may want your regulator as well to properly set the charging system.

You are spot on regarding the need for clean and tight connections in the 6V world.

 

Thanks, I'll clean it up today and check it out.

 

I ran into a similar problem when I first got Edith, nobody was able to test the generator. Even the local auto electrical shop that rebuilt my starter was only able to put power to it, but he said that he had scrapped his 6 volt testing equipment years ago.

 

Since your truck is not actually running right now this may not help, but if you can't find anybody to test the generator here is how to test it with the truck running.
Two brush Ford generators use the shunt type generator design. The field circuit has an internally grounded field. ... unlike MoPar and GM which ground through the regulator. To test a Ford generator and/or regulator on the car, simply ground the field terminal at either the generator or regulator with the engine turning about 1000 rpm and watch the amp gauge (do not disconnect any wires) . Grounding the field removes all external regulation on the generator and it will go immediately to full charge mode. If the ammeter shows charge when you ground the field, the regulator is at fault. If the ammeter does not show charge, the generator is defective. Note the generator may have shorted out the regulator when it went bad.
Since the 6 volt regulators are still mechanical and can be set, it may be beneficial to know what is where inside them.
the cutout relay is directly behind the BAT terminal
the current relay is directly behind the ARM terminal
the voltage relay is directly behind the FIELD terminal

 

91Fbody,
You got good advice from the guys. I can't add anymore, just emphasize that you make sure you have clean connections and to look for a local old time auto-electric shop that rebuilds gennys, alternators and starters. Let me add that you should get new cables made: batt to ground, batt to solenoid, solenoid to starter. An old cable can look good but can be corroded on the inside. I found this out after I cut one of my old ones. Make sure new cables are '0' gauge.

Secondly, we need to know what year truck you have and you have to post some pictures.