You need the other variables to get the actual number, but if you are close, you will see the difference made by the change in chamber size.

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html

 

What do the experts in here recommend for a good street strip cam? To work in conjunction with the p heads, in stock form or lightly ported, probably just exhaust side. Need somethin that will "most likely" work with stock pistons. I will slap some clay on there to be sure obviously.

Lookin at this kit, which appears to be a copy of the Ford Racing E-303 cam. Also cheaper than the other roller kits, and has gaskets. Ive read the E303 is a good cam, but outdated. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-08-0029/overview/

 

You're talking still about the 69 motor right ? You could convert it to a roller cam, it'll cost you a good bit more, but you won't have to worry about cam failures afterwards and going with link bar lifters, you can always reuse them in another build. Never run the E cam, I've run the B303 and Z303 both with 1.7 rockers. The B has a nice nasty sounding lope at idle (500 rpms) and works with stock roller springs. The Z I have in a 331, with Canfield heads and springs to work with the lift (.587 with 1.7's) in the 331 it's completely streetable, nice lopey idle, good fuel mileage. I wouldn't recommend it in your 69 302 though. The stock Ford F4TE roller found in the 94-97 trucks and vans is another good-un with a carb. Even better with 1.7 rockers. This is also the same cam in the Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0. It's just a tad less cam than the HO roller.

 

. If Fords are like Chevy's, need a roller-lifters-ready-block to use that combo pack kit... it supplies OEM-style roller lifters... add ~$200 for retro-roller-lifters with tie-bars for earlier blocks (pre-1984)...


. For the same money, can prolly get a more modern cam design with higher lift at same duration from other cam makers like Elgin, Howard's, Comp, Lunati, etc...


. Should also have your actual compression ratio nailed down before selecting a cam... a .015" thick shim head gasket can help get compression ratio up and improve engine quench effects...


http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility


http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Quench
.

 

There are two ways to convert a non roller block to roller. One uses a reduced base circle cam and the O.E. roller lifters (this sets the lifters lower into the non roller lifter bores) but you're limited on cam choices, the cams cost more as well. The second is to use link bar roller lifters with a std base circle cam (O.E. style cams) the lifters cost more here, but the cam choices are much more plentiful and cheaper. I would use the second of the two. And as I mentioned before, the lifters can be reused in any other future engine build with any other hyd roller cam.

 

Going to revive this, now that ive driven the car a while and actually have a plan and know a little more about it. Kinda back to where i was originally thinking, just a little different path. Few questions first: Did the 69 4bbl 351 have flat tops, or were they slightly dished? Is the 2bbl 69 351 cam any different than the 2bbl 302? Lastly, can a 351w intake (performer in this case) be milled to work on a 302?
Cruising craigslist in the search for a F4TE, i, as luck would have it, stumbled across a 69 351w that just happened to be out of a Fairlane. Thats all i know about it unfortunately, as it has '84 heads, (also unfortunate), and a performer intake, so no way to tell if 4bbl or 2bbl.
Ive pretty much decided to turn the 351w into a mild 408w that should make for a nice 11 second street/ strip car, and should return decent mileage from what ive read. In the meantime, ive still got it in my head that i would like to do some waking up of the 302 thats in there. I still have an itch to try some touched up GT40Ps. I can get a pair for $64 at the local JY, and as they have no less than than 20 something explorers and mountaneers with v8s, finding a decent set shouldnt be too tough. Do some valve lapping, open up the exhaust side and toss em on. After some fairly extensive researching, im led to believe that, that alone should be good for 15-20hp. Toss on some headers, duals, and the earlier mentioned 500 holley, hopefully another 10-20. I asked about milling the 351w intake to fit a 302, which is probably unlikely and cost prohibitive, might stumble across a used intake hopefully as i just acquired 2 new to me holleys and a edelbrock.

Orrr...

Option 2, maybe. I also just acquired a 351C 2bbl, i know absolutely nothing about other than its not seized, has chrome valve covers, and a performer intake. It could be a '72. Ive been led to believe a 351c with a little love can be in the 250-275hp range, and might be the best temporarly alternative to investing parts into the 302 to get to the same power.
If i dig into the Clevland and find out its worth dropping in, you guys have any bets on flexplate and starters crossing over? Going to have to get/ fab an alternator bracket.

Two more questions. Is there a difference between a 351C intake and a 400 intake? In this case specifically, edelbrock performers. And the longshot... will a 351W distributor work in a 335 engine?

 

Wow, lot of questions there. First off, 302 and 351W use completely different intakes, you cannot mill the 351W to fit a 302. Ditto for the 351C and 400. The Cleveland makes much more power over a 351W, due to the better head design. Only drawback is the open chambers that tend to detonate more, so you have to run a higher octane fuel or pull back on the timing versus the Windsor. The pistons in those two Windsors were different, the 2 bbl having a deeper dish vs the 4 bbl motor. The Cleveland used the same flywheel/flexplate that the Windsor and the 302 used (pre 1981 302's) ditto on the starters. The distributors are also different between the Windsor and Cleveland. The Cleveland used the same distributor that the 429/460 used.

 

Youve pretty much re-affirmed almost everything i was thinking. I knew the clevlands shared a dizzy with something, but couldnt remember what, being 335, i was pretty sure it was the 385s, but being that theres a DUI dist. on the W, didnt hurt anything to ask. I did pull the heads on the W, and they are dished, i shouldve asked if there is anyway to tell by eyeball if theyre 2v or 4v.

Ill dig into the clevland some and report back. Thanks for all the info. Honestly not just an excuse, my laptop died, and im using the neighbors old aids infested desktop that apparetnly thinks 3 out of 4 websites dont have valid security certificates, or are malicious, therefor i cant visit them. Not the least of are, facebook, my email, ebay, and apparently every known search engine. Seriously, about the only sites i can get to are FTE, fairlane club, craigslist and grimmjeepers gear calculator lol

 

Just thought to add this, the car does actually move along pretty well despite the "lo-po" 302 and 2.6x gears, just needs a little more (did beat my bosses Corrola 'R' or 'S'). Also shocked the hell outta me when i realized its getting 21-22mpg

 

Yes, contrary to most BS, most 1960's cars did get pretty good gas mileage... compared to the absolutely horrible MPG of early 1970's cars with actual compression ratios closer to 7's:1 and retarded cam timings... careful matching of cam and compression ratio will be needed to avoid totally ruining the MPG... and to avoid turning the engine into a high-RPMs-only thing incompatible with the stock read end ratio...

 

Pistons of that vintage were often cast with 2V of 4V in the pin boss area. The 71 351W pistons had a dish of around an eighth inch depth, I've got both a 71 and a 72 351W piston sitting on my shop shelf saved from motors I took down years ago,..

 

I'd suggest rebuilding with KB hypereutectic pistons since they usually restore the stock compression height... most rebuilder pistons sit down further in the bore... which is like an even deeper dish... also wouldn't go any bigger than a 214/224 (@ .050" lift) cam...

 

Gotta watch the pin heights on any after market piston, KB's included. 302 piston heights vary from 1.585 to 1.619. Choose wisely

 

As far as the eventual 408 build. The pistons i have picked out will put me at 0 - .005 above deck, assuming a .005 -.01" decking, theoretically.

I havent pulled the bottom end on the 351w yet, partially because i cant find my ridge reamer, secondly, no reason to really. I had thought about tossing it in with some heads if its a 4v, but at this point im pretty sure its a 2v.

Going to take a look at the 351C here in a little bit, pull the valve covers, probably the pan and have a look-see. Maybe see if i can cobble a starter on it on the stand and get a compression test.