Recently purchased a barn fresh 65 f100 with what I was told was a 390. This really didnt matter since the price was right. Upon further investigation of some cating #s I think I have something else. If I post some #s could any one verify them for me? Thanks in advance.

 

As Number Dummy likes to point out, sellers will frequently try to tell you you're getting a 390 when it's not the case. 390s didn't come from the factory in an F100 until 1968. From '65 - '67 the F100 V8 engine was a 352. However, the block architecture is the same for both FE engines so they essentially look identical. Casting numbers on the block, heads, intake manifold can give you possible clues as to which engine you have, but because of a high degree of interchangability, the only way you can be sure is to stick a piece of wire down a spark plug hole and measure the stroke. Even that isn't a complete guarantee because of stroke overlap between FE engines. For example: 352 and 360 engines have a 3.50 inch stroke. 390, 406, and 427 engines have a 3.78 inch stroke. 410 and 428 engines have a 3.98 inch stroke. So if you get a stroke measurement of a little more than 3 and ¾ inches you probably have a 390, but maybe you got lucky and got a race motor. If the stroke is nearly 4 inches you could have got lucky and found a 428 as one of our forum members did just a few weeks ago. And don't be fooled when you see "352" cast into the block. Most FE engines have that whether they are 352s or not. Good luck!

 

On sale day, 352/360's magically become 390's!

352: 1965/67 F100/250 2WD/4WD & F350 / 360: 1968/76 F100/250 2WD/4WD & F350 / 390: 1968/76 F100/250 2WD & F350.

Casting numbers are usually worthless for identifying FE engines. For example, 360/390's from 1968/76 F100/350's have the same casting numbers as the blocks have the same bore (4.05").

 

So this is what I've found on my motor,
# under oil filter housing. Date code?
WI
8L15
#on pad driver rear just under head.
9R129000
#on front driver
57
352
Head # in between center plugs
C8AE
Intake # rear of intake
8OE-9425-C
Ive done some digging but could any verify these?

 

8L15 = Block cast November (L) 15, 1968 (8) / A = January, M = December, the letter I is skipped.

C8AE head could be a 360 or 390 from a 1968/76 F100/350 or a 390 from a 1968/71 car.

C8OE intake manifold is from a 1968 Galaxie/LTD/Fairlane/Torino/Mustang/Cougar 390 (not a hipo).

 

A friend of a friend "The ford guy" in my area looked at my motor and instantly tried to buy it. When I denied his request he went onto explain that he was 98% sure what I had was a scj. Somthing about the racing rods and a balancing sleeve on thfront of the crank.????

 

if it's a scj, it should have a "hachet" behind the balancer. if it's there, you'll know why it's called that.

 

It does look like a hatchet, is that the only motor that used this type of counterweight?

 

According to the Mustang 428 Cobra Jet registery website, the casting number on your intake manifold (C8OE-9425-C) fits the description for a Cobra Jet Mustang motor. While further examination is in order, it sounds like you may have scored big. Congratulations!

 

Thanks for the info. Any idea how to confirm this other than tearing the motor apart? I would really hate to do that the thing runs too damn good.

 

Measure the stroke of the engine. It may tell you something - or maybe not. Worth a try, I think.

Here are the specs: 3.98 is the stroke for the 410 and 428 engines; 3.78 is the stroke for the 390, 406 and 427 engines and 3.5 is the stroke for the 352 and 360 engines.

A 410 or 428 would be a real find.

If so, sell the engine for beau coup bucks and put in a power house 390. You would come out ahead on that one (unless you are an FE aficionado).

Here's the easy way to check the stroke without removing the head. Get a straight 12 inch piece of white electrical house wire or coat hanger wire. Get a magic marker.
Remove a spark plug.
Turn the engine over by hand until the wire is at it's highest point. You might have to rock the engine back and forth a bit to get it to its highest point.
Make a mark on the wire even with the lip on the valve cover. Now rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees, until the wire is at its lowest point. Mark the wire again, at the lip.
Now, measure the distance between the two marks.

 

Thanks again for the info and funny you would say that about a 390 I just happened to get one with the extra parts when I bought the truck.

 

The so-called "balancing sleeve" is actually this: B8AZ-6359-A .. Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer Spacer.

Applications: ALL 1958/76 FE engines.

What are the casting numbers on these so called racing rods?

Also post the ID engineering number that is stamped on the harmonic balancer.

 

ND: It sounds to me as though he is referring to C9ZE-6A360-A, which if I am correct, is only used on 410s and 428s, the only two externally balanced FE engines.
Similar to the "hatchet" shaped external counterbalance on my 460.
Can you discuss the part number?

 

I have no idea of the casting #s of the internals. I was told the rods are a hevier "lemans ?" rod and this was the only application that used the hatchet style sleeve/ counterbalance or whatever it's called. I did however use banjopickers method of checking the stroke and it measures just about 4 inches.I made sure the motor ran before I started dismantling the front clip because of body damage, I got all the #s i could off the externals and am in the process of getting her back together. At this point there's no way I'm going to tear the motor apart just to find out. so I suppose it is what it is, I'm just going to drive it.