I have a 1978 f250 4x4 with a 400 in it. I want to replace it with another 400 that I got out of a 1978 2x4. is there anything other that the oil pan that I have to change?

 

The oil pump and dipstick as well

 

Well the pickup anyway

 

Front sump pan to rear sump pan.

Change the oil pump and pick up tube and maybe the stud bolt that the pick up tube connects to up under there? And do you now have a dip stick in the front of the motor? That goes to the front sump pan?

If you change to a rear sump you will need the side of the pad dip stick.

 

Ford 460 front to rear sump oil pan conversion, might help with your deal?

I purchased a Ford Racing Engine Swap Oil Pan and a set of Milodon pan bolts for my truck, which has a big dent in the side of it where the front differential hit it. (Previous owner doing jumps). It didn't go exactly to plan.
When I pulled the pan, I soon realized that you need a new oil pump. The old siphon tube presses in on the bottom; you need the type with the two bolt flange on the side. So I ordered a Ford racing oil pump as well. (Priority shipping was expensive). I found that the new main bearing stub doesn't have a nut or lock washer (3/8" flange nut), also the kit doesn't come with a gasket for the siphon tube or bolts for that matter.
During installation I had to remove a broken bolt, I used a set of Irwin screw extractors which worked great.
About an hour into trying to figure out why I couldn't get the four larger(5/16) bolts into the ends of the pan, I pulled it down and found that the new one piece gasket will only accommodate the 1/4" bolts like on the sides, but not the 5/16". I ended up drilling the inserts out with a 5/16 drill bit.

Parts needed for conversion:
Oil Pan: Ford Racing M-6675-A460 (Summit or Jegs)
Oil Pump: Ford Racing M-6600-A460 (Summit or Jegs)
Oil Pump to Engine Gasket (Included with Oil Pump)
Siphon Tube Gasket: Fel Pro 11792 (Summit, Jegs, any Auto Parts Store)
1 of each - Grade 8 (3/8" - 18 Thread) Black Flange Nut for Main cap bolt (True Value)
2 of each - Grade 8 Black (5/16" - 18 Thread) Flange nut & Lock washers. (True Value)
Oil pan bolts: Milodon 85010 (Summit or Jegs)

Additional Steps:
If your 460 has the 4 larger bolts, 2 at the timing cover, 2 at the rear main cap, You will need to drill the holes in the gasket using a 5/16 drill bit.
You have to man handle the new dip stick tube to get it to fit.

Review:
Although I ran into problems, the overall product is outstanding! The Milodon bolts are a little bit shorter than factory, but they look great against the black Ford racing oil pan. The pump pressure using the Ford High volume oil pump is also great, it is reading on the high side of normal on the gauge. The clearance is outstanding, and I will never attempt to use a four piece gasket with RTV again on an oil pan.
You can perform this conversion for around $250, well worth the time and money. Don't forget to buy oil and new filter.

AND You will also need a reverse sump oil pickup tube/screen and the special stud (1/2" -13 x 3/8" -16 x 4 11/16") used to mount it to the main bearing cap.

Trans and motor mount info:
If you have an auto trans and a complete donor car, its pretty easy. To do it on the cheap, get the 460 Lincoln engine AND the torque converter from the car. Or buy a new converter that fits that car. Get a pair of 360/390 motor mounts, oblong the two holes on the motor mounts with a chainsaw file or whatever works for you and they bolt on to the 460 block diagonally You will notice that the stud on the 360 mount is not centered so you want that stud toward the back of the 460. If you flip the 360 mount upside down it puts the stud toward the front you want it toward the back. Now you notice the top corner of the 360 mounts are in the way of the exhaust manifolds. You need to put them on a band saw and cut off about an inch or so from the top corner of the 360 mount so it clears the manifold. Cut one mount at a time so you cut the right corner off. Remember the stud needs to be toward the back of the 460 block. If you set your bandsaw up to cut a 45 degrees and you cut one and than the other the same way, one will work and the other won't because you cut the wrong corner off. If you hold them up to the 460 block you will see what I'm talking about.
So with the 351M removed, pull the 351m converter out of the trans and put the 460 converter into the front of the trans. and put the 460 in the truck. The studs on the 360 mount will drop into the frame perches in the truck and the trans will bolt to the back of the block and the converter will bolt to the 460 flexplate.

Do you have this? D6TZ-6345-A .. Stud-Attaches pickup tube to #3 main bearing cap / 3/8" -16 & 1/2" -13 x 4.60" long.

 

Oil pan and pump with pickup to match ..... just use your old pan and dipstick setup, but I'd throw a new pump in.

Easy to do, I figure when he stated "that I got out of a 1978 2x4" ..... that that's when he got you.

But I gotta say, you went the whole way to help him .....

 

Thank you all for the help. I will get a new pan gasket.

Another question for you could one just change the pick up tube and screen on the pumps? The reason I ask is the 400 that I am putting in has only got 35,000 miles on it. It has been rebuild by a Ford dealership.

 

You will have to make sure its a bolt in tube some are pressed on. But yes it is possible.