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If you move it over to your passenger fender wall and hard mount it, you won't need the little LED light to know when it's working... you'll hear the distinct clunk when it activates as well as when it turns off. You'll also end up with more working room in the valley.
I was all set to go on this then up came the $15.00 shipping charges. That got my goat and I went shopping and came up with this one at about half the price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201033503560?item=201033503560&viewitem=&vxp=mtrIt reminds me of the Hancock Bldg in Chicago. I'll report back on how I like it.
Originally Posted by F250_
If you move it over to your passenger fender wall and hard mount it, you won't need the little LED light to know when it's working... you'll hear the distinct clunk when it activates as well as when it turns off. You'll also end up with more working room in the valley.
I'll give that a look see when I do the install it sounds like a great tip.
When mine needs replaced I'm going to put a Electric Golf Cart Relay in. My buddy put one in his a couple winters ago because he had one for his 48v Golf Cart that wasn't the problem and couldn't return it.
Looks like a Starter Relay. Designed for constant use. It's rated at 500 Amps and is 12v switched. It doesn't even get warm.
Sounds like a small hammer on steel when it engages and disengages.
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I'll give that a look see when I do the install it sounds like a great tip.
Thanks for the input,
Mark
Keep in mind, Mark, that my comments apply to having put a brand new Stancor monster relay on my PS fender wall... not a stock or stock-comparable replacement. I don't know if you would get the same ON/OFF noise effect from one of those smaller relays.
Keep in mind, Mark, that my comments apply to having put a brand new Stancor monster relay on my PS fender wall... not a stock or stock-comparable replacement. I don't know if you would get the same ON/OFF noise effect from one of those smaller relays.
OK, and when I was under there jumping the relay this AM I looked around and it looks like the wires would need a bit of adjustment to make that reach so I'll probably keep it where it is for now.
I do like that idea of a golf cart relay. I expect that one who knows electricity well enough could come up with a few different relays to use. I would expect that the mounting bracket holes would be the biggest obstacle.
Keep in mind, Mark, that my comments apply to having put a brand new Stancor monster relay on my PS fender wall... not a stock or stock-comparable replacement. I don't know if you would get the same ON/OFF noise effect from one of those smaller relays.
Yes... moving the relay requires extending the wiring, and it's tedious, but I'm really glad I did it on mine.
If you don't mind me asking, what are we talking about for wiring here.......should be relatively basic extensions with the proper wire and connectors (solder free....maybe the crimped ones) right? Of course I am far from a wiring expert and I know that relay is carrying some juice.
The key phrase is "relatively basic". Although I CAN do wiring and soldering, it is neither my forte nor something which I even do once every couple of years. Also, if you don't already know this about me, I over-engineer most of what I do.
That said...
1) Finding the right wire gauges in the correct colors was one issue of tedium I encountered. Did not find everything the way I wanted, so I cut the OEM wires close enough to the stock look where I could make a decent soldered & heat shrinked joint, which left me with enough of the OEM wire at the terminals so that you can follow a Ford wiring diagram to see which wire goes where (if ever necessary). This means that there are a total of 8 splices for the four wires (two for each wire, and that is why I soldered them).
2) Soldering the connections is tedious, at least for me, and the four locations in the valley are not reachable from the ground (stretched out and bent over, which is yet another short term complication).
3) Staggering the exact location of each splice mentioned in Item 1 above so that when I placed them all in new wire loom, they all fit reasonably well without having 4 heat shrinked and taped splices all bunched up in on place making their collective diameter too large for anything but industrial grade conduit... all while leaving enough wire at each end for effective tracing with a Ford wiring diagram.
4) Finding a good route so that future removal of the PS valve cover and/or IC pipe is not hindered... didn't take too long, but I tried several routes with a "test wire" just to make sure I chose the best and easiest route.
5) Installing all the new loom and then also taping that new loom closed (entire length) so that engine compartment heat would not cause it to relax at the bends where I included a little extra wire length for the extended wires.
6) Installing Velcro strapping to keep the new loom secure in out of the way paths.
At least the above was MY experience. I'm sure that many of you guys in here could have done it cleaner & faster than I did, and more than likely just as effective and reliable. I was not in a rush, so I took my time and tried to think everything out carefully, and I probably did more than necessary.
Pete, thanks for the time to write that up......if you are guilty of over-engineering, I am guilty of over researching and sometimes get a little analysis paralysis.....but I usually overcome that.....lol
One day, once I get off my lazy butt, I'll clean up the engine bay and snap/post a few photos to show the new GPR home and how clean the valley looks without either relay in there.