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I use the same tubes Rodney. EZ Drain valves on all of the vehicles and those relocation tubes on the power equipment with valves. The only tools I need for oil changes are an oil filter wrench and funnel.
I think you may have something amiss. I have the FS541V on my Ferris and have no troubles starting it, even in below freezing weather....and I only have a pull start.
It'll start every time. Just will die when you try to engage the blades until its warm. The choke is spring biased back to off, if you want it on you have to hold it there.......kind of stupid. But you also can't ease the electric clutch in and that doesn't help. I just let it run while I blow the leaves into a pile with the blower. If I can use it for leaves. This fall was so wet I haven't used it since late October.
I haven't looked at CL in months Rodney. All Facebook marketplace. I have nextdoor on my phone but think it's kind of glitchy app and don't check it much.
I popped it on FB last night so we'll see what happens. Lots of folks will have an extra $600 in their bank account this week so maybe that will help...
Good morning lads. Got a FB message at 6:30 morning from what sounds like a very interested party. Will see if he calls now that he has my #.
Turned the heat on in the garage today and tackled the Polaris OEM LED headlight conversion on the quad. It went very smoothly and the harness that was made up by a Polaris ATV forums dude made it 100% plug and play. It took me a hair over two hours but I could do my next set in an hour flat now that I know how things come apart. The results not only look cool but these lights have a ton of output as well. The DRL halos are as bright as my previous headlights and the lights them self are blinding. My phone wouldn't even focus to take a good pic they were so intense. Here's a couple pics of the standard vs. LED housings plus two with them installed that don't do them justice...
Thanks Roy. The original ones were halogen and didn't do much. Then I put LED bulbs in the halogen housings which looked better but performed worse. These were expensive and I held off on them but Maryann and my mom conspired to get them for me as a Christmas gift.
That is a mean looking machine, nice upgrade. My old 2005 Sportsman still shuts the low beams on the fenders off when you switch the high beam up in the pod on, lol.
Chad, if you do it, I strongly recommend going with true LED housings or just add Rigid LED pods or a bar. Swapping in LED bulbs to the stock housings worked ok in the General but on the smaller quad sized housings with smaller bulbs, the performance was terrible. They looked brighter due to the color difference. But the first time coming home in the dark after a long ride in Maine, I had to slow way down because I couldn't see anything in front of me.
Tyler, I got it. Time for a new machine then... Easy answer...
I used a pair of Rigid SR-6 LED light bars on the roof of my Ranger 900. Unfortunately, they are spot lights, so the beam is very narrow. I have them aimed to light up both edges of the trail about 50' from the Ranger. One of these days, I'll get around to switching to a flood or maybe a hybrid flood/spot. I sure won't spend the kind of money that Rigid wants. The two flood lights on the back were super cheap and they have worked great.
I understand the reluctance to go with Rigid Jim. They are super expensive and there are a ton of cheaper options on Amazon with great reviews. I do have a Rigid bar that was on my 2012 350 and is now on Maryann's GC. The quality is undeniable but for occasional use like on a quad or SXS, I'd be more hard pressed to spend the coin. That said, Rigid does get a lot more light out of smaller bars and pods so sometimes they are the only way to go if you have a tight fit.
12-30-2020, 04:23 PM
