When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Putting the 52 back together. New master cylinder and piston. Trying to put the springs back and have seen some pics. Brake spring -long one -can hook up to the hole on the trans. but it pulls the piston out of the master cylinder and fluid leaks all over? I know I need clamps on the rubber boot on the master -didn't come with them. Also, the brake spring looks like it goes over the clevis and hooks thru a hole in the cross frame member -but it is too loose and can fall out.
Any ideas what I am doing wrong?
Thanks in advance.
Putting the 52 back together. New master cylinder and piston. Trying to put the springs back and have seen some pics. Brake spring -long one -can hook up to the hole on the trans. but it pulls the piston out of the master cylinder and fluid leaks all over? I know I need clamps on the rubber boot on the master -didn't come with them. Also, the brake spring looks like it goes over the clevis and hooks thru a hole in the cross frame member -but it is too loose and can fall out.
Any ideas what I am doing wrong?
Thanks in advance.
The clutch spring (short one) goes through the frame. The long spring goes to the brake pedal arm, which I believe is what you meant.
If you have your clutch adjusted correctly, there should not be any slop in the clutch return spring.
Here's the front:
Here's the back:
And you must have the snap ring in your master cylinder, or it will never work. P/N 2174 in the drawing.
OK -I figured it out. I have the cab off. So the clutch and brake pedals can move backward too far and would normally hit the rubber bumpers located below the cutout for the pedals. Without the cab on, they are not being stopped before the piston moves out of the master and the springs are getting loose. So I will fill up the master again and put the springs on once the cab is in place again.
OK -I figured it out. I have the cab off. So the clutch and brake pedals can move backward too far and would normally hit the rubber bumpers located below the cutout for the pedals. Without the cab on, they are not being stopped before the piston moves out of the master and the springs are getting loose. So I will fill up the master again and put the springs on once the cab is in place again.
Even if the push rod comes out of the m/c completely, it should not be leaking. The snap ring holds the stop plate in the cylinder, and the primary cup seals the fluid in the cylinder. The boot is only there to keep FOD (dirt) out of the cylinder.
So yes, the pedal stops aren't there, but the m/c should never leak anyway.
When I first rebuilt mine, I damaged the primary cup, and it leaked like a sieve.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
