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just keep in mind there is no control unit for the engine as that's even more old school and just run mechanically so you'll get no codes from the engine when it's hard to start,puffs white smoke or has other issues.you'll need to use old timer diagnosis methods.
I have a similar truck in the similar situation with a similar problem. Transmission was rebuilt before i bought it but it shifted super hard. It turns out the previous owner/mechanic installed a shift kit in it and overdrilled the calibration plate. See my link for pictures. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ard-fixed.html
Nice work. How about you come fix it for me. Hahaha.
How did you adjust the tps?
I cleaned the terminals on mine and die-greased it, and it improved it just a little.
Originally Posted by Prototypemech
I have a similar truck in the similar situation with a similar problem. Transmission was rebuilt before i bought it but it shifted super hard. It turns out the previous owner/mechanic installed a shift kit in it and overdrilled the calibration plate. See my link for pictures. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ard-fixed.html
you need a multimeter and a torqs-driver. The TPS is on the driver-side of the injection pump. It has 3 wires. You need to back-probe the top and middle (i think) wires with the multimeter and then turn on the ignition. (disconnect the fast idle solenoid or you'll get a false reading) You should see somewhere around 1 volt at idle and that number will increase as you open the throttle. If that number decreases when you open the throttle, probe the other wire.
Then, loosen up the two torqs screws on the side of the TPS sensor and twist the tps sensor to adjust the voltage. Higher voltage makes the transmission shift at higher RPM. Lower voltage makes the transmission shift at lower RPM.
crispy you adjust the TPS when engine is warm, to about 1.1 volts. if it is set to high the trans may shift hard, thinking you have your foot in it. and should shift softer with a lower volt set point. when you drive beware that the trans locks the converter immediately after the 2-3 shift, (it can feel like a slip or double shift) then shifts to OD with a locked converter. to feel the trans shift all four gears with out the converter locking, accelerate normally with the hazerd lits on (this will prevent locking) if the trans hunts 3-4 clean the tach sensor as the rpm of the engine is needed by the trans...
you need a multimeter and a torqs-driver. The TPS is on the driver-side of the injection pump. It has 3 wires. You need to back-probe the top and middle (i think) wires with the multimeter and then turn on the ignition. (disconnect the fast idle solenoid or you'll get a false reading) You should see somewhere around 1 volt at idle and that number will increase as you open the throttle. If that number decreases when you open the throttle, probe the other wire.
Then, loosen up the two torqs screws on the side of the TPS sensor and twist the tps sensor to adjust the voltage. Higher voltage makes the transmission shift at higher RPM. Lower voltage makes the transmission shift at lower RPM.
Is the tach sensor the little sensor next to the oil fill spout. On injection pump??
Originally Posted by speedwrench72
crispy you adjust the TPS when engine is warm, to about 1.1 volts. if it is set to high the trans may shift hard, thinking you have your foot in it. and should shift softer with a lower volt set point. when you drive beware that the trans locks the converter immediately after the 2-3 shift, (it can feel like a slip or double shift) then shifts to OD with a locked converter. to feel the trans shift all four gears with out the converter locking, accelerate normally with the hazerd lits on (this will prevent locking) if the trans hunts 3-4 clean the tach sensor as the rpm of the engine is needed by the trans...
Is the tach sensor the little sensor next to the oil fill spout.
yes.
Originally Posted by CrispyWafer
On injection pump??
no.
if the tach is reading steady,odds are the sensor is ok.did you pull the codes yet? replacing the TPS as preventive is correct anyway but no other sensor should be replaced without first diagnosing the issue.
Haven't done codes yet. Gotta find someone with a meter capable of this truck. Or just order one.
Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
codes first.sensors second.
yes.
no.
if the tach is reading steady,odds are the sensor is ok.did you pull the codes yet? replacing the TPS as preventive is correct anyway but no other sensor should be replaced without first diagnosing the issue.
just don't forget,that with the diesel you do key on,engine off and before turning the key forward,you need to hold wide open throttle or else you'll get code 23.
She shifts perfect through all gear with the hazards on.
And... I adjusted my TPS to 1.12. But, w/o hazards it gets pretty hard going into 4th. I can the the converter lock, as soon as I go into 3rd.
Originally Posted by speedwrench72
crispy you adjust the TPS when engine is warm, to about 1.1 volts. if it is set to high the trans may shift hard, thinking you have your foot in it. and should shift softer with a lower volt set point. when you drive beware that the trans locks the converter immediately after the 2-3 shift, (it can feel like a slip or double shift) then shifts to OD with a locked converter. to feel the trans shift all four gears with out the converter locking, accelerate normally with the hazerd lits on (this will prevent locking) if the trans hunts 3-4 clean the tach sensor as the rpm of the engine is needed by the trans...
Thanks for the links. I'll go over them. But, will probably just buy a reader. LOL. Take notice of my reply to SpeedWrench, above. It's a learning curve for me. I've never dealt with auto electrical or transmissions. I'm just a welder and equipment mechanic.
just don't forget,that with the diesel you do key on,engine off and before turning the key forward,you need to hold wide open throttle or else you'll get code 23.
if a good tranny guy worked on this tranny there is a good chance it has a tugger shift kit. installed. it improves shift feel. and a better tourq converter that can handle the heat and could be slightly lower stall..and improved clutch packs if your lucky...make certain it has a huge trans cooler...seldom one complains of hard shifts if the OD lite is not blinking....properly built the E4OD can handle 500+ hp .
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