When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I know the money shots will be at night, but I can tell already they will help just by how bright they are during the day. I'll try and take some good night shots when I can. The front will match the brightness of the rear. I still love the Rigid SR10 I installed a while back. Works like a champ
What light do you use for your brights in that recon housing? Alison, here's my single row
Standard H1 Sylvania Ultra in the brights. You need to do some modification to fit the H13's in the recon housing, but it's not to bad. Then you just to a jumper from the H1 brights to the H13 bright wires to get them both to come on at the same time. Halogen's in the brights are ideal to flash traffic as they come on instantly. HID's have an ignition delay so they aren't too good for flashing traffic. They are better once they are warmed up over the halogen's though.
The H13 is a combination bulb meaning it is one bulb with two "lamps" or in the case of a halogen, two "filaments". It basically means the same bulb has a separate lamp for the low beams and another for the high beams. The jumper from the actual halogen high beams down to the HID activates a magnet inside the HID to relocate the lamp to draw the correct ignition source. If the truck isn't running and you switch between high and low beams, you can actually hear it. All H13 bulbs have dual elements (or filaments or lamps)...not just mine.
I really like your setup! Im thinking about running a single in the grille in the top slot as i have a bull bar. What is the light output on these? I have 2 rigid duallys on the front that i think im going to put on the back as reverse lights. Pretty easy install? I already know the wiring details, its just the mounting of the light bar itself im curious about. Thanks in advance!
-Tide
Originally Posted by NStorm
Hey Tim, thats pretty slick right there...I'm going to send a copy to my electrician neighbor...maybe help me decipher this "code" LOL.
All bars are Rough Country, cheaper than Rigid, and still a three year bumper to bumper warranty. Double stack.
Here are some daytime pics...night time to come....after the sun goes down.
31,600 lumens in total
Hard to photograph...so bright.
interior with LED lights.
I'll grab come more next weekend, at night...buzz out in a field a take some length and width shots. The do throw the light out a long way...not like the earlier generation LED bars that were tight...these shoot the beam.
I really like your setup! Im thinking about running a single in the grille in the top slot as i have a bull bar. What is the light output on these? I have 2 rigid duallys on the front that i think im going to put on the back as reverse lights. Pretty easy install? I already know the wiring details, its just the mounting of the light bar itself im curious about. Thanks in advance!
-Tide
Hey Tide, thanks for the compliment! Install was very easy...pop the grill out (screws on top, tops to need to access with a long standard screwdriver on the bottom...press down in the slots and it pops out...need to reach in behind the grill) then cut out a few of the plastic fins...few small holes in the plastic grill supports, and a mounting kit from Rough Country. The kit is literally made for these trucks. The light output is ridiculous...so so much brighter than headlights, and more than you'd EVER want to have on while driving into traffic. With a single bar on top, you'll light up an entire 50' oak tree from 100 yards back...top to bottom, and probably be able to count the leaves...with all of mine on, the leaves burn off...LOL In all seriousness, these bars are BRIGHT.
Also, I was hesitant initially, especially given the price vs. rigid. These bars have held up in amazing fashion. Carwashes, freezing temps, high humidity all of it. No clouding, scratching etc..like new. Really happy with them.
I bet these boys toss a Black Friday sale on Friday...I'm going to have to look too.
Nels, Thanks for the info! Hopefully the instructions will be pretty easy to follow (ie where to cut/drill holes) Which upfitter switch did you use on these? I have my small rigid duallys on switch 4. Im adding onboard air soon as well! They look bright! If you get a chance to shoot a distance/spread shot at night with them, post it up! Im sure a lot of us would like to see it! I ordered the light and it should be at my door early next week! Thanks for the tip on removing the grille! I was having a hard time figuring out the bottom when i changed my headlights ( i just propped it back and it worked fine). Remember, dont keep your lights on too long, only you can prevent forrest fires!
they look to fit the stock headlamp housings. I have the recon housings now. My problem is the high beams suck. I'll look and see if they have some that fit the new housings.
Nels, Thanks for the info! Hopefully the instructions will be pretty easy to follow (ie where to cut/drill holes) Which upfitter switch did you use on these? I have my small rigid duallys on switch 4. Im adding onboard air soon as well! They look bright! If you get a chance to shoot a distance/spread shot at night with them, post it up! Im sure a lot of us would like to see it! I ordered the light and it should be at my door early next week! Thanks for the tip on removing the grille! I was having a hard time figuring out the bottom when i changed my headlights ( i just propped it back and it worked fine). Remember, dont keep your lights on too long, only you can prevent forrest fires!
Thanks buddy!,
-Tide
Very easy to install, absolutely. The directions are great as they are written specifically for our trucks...not a general bolt-on-to-anything scenario. I worked the two single stacks to #1, and the 20" double to #2. Everything is feeding directly off the battery, and the relays are screwed in to the compartment under the hood. For on/off I jumped on one of the cab pass-thru wires and hooked up under the dash, the bundle for the firewall and the up-fitter dead ends are right there...crimp, crimp, done.
NStorm,
I really like the idea of brighter interior lighting! How do I find the right LED buld to switch to? Is the bulb all that is needed to upgrade the interior lights to LED? I tried to pop the cover off of my map lights this morning. It didn't seem to want to come off. The sides would release but the middle wouldn't. I have a 2014 F250 Ultimate Lariat.
Thanks.
Brian
NStorm,
I really like the idea of brighter interior lighting! How do I find the right LED buld to switch to? Is the bulb all that is needed to upgrade the interior lights to LED? I tried to pop the cover off of my map lights this morning. It didn't seem to want to come off. The sides would release but the middle wouldn't. I have a 2014 F250 Ultimate Lariat.
Thanks.
Brian
Hey Brian, thanks for the note. An update to my interior lighting...the cheapo Amazon chinese made LED bulbs crapped out after a couple months, they started flickering intermittently. I've found some new ones on superbrightleds.com, but haven't ordered yet. The festoon bulbs in the rear are fine, its just the 168's for the map lights, and license plate. Could have to do with the voltage to these areas too i suppose...maybe its lower? Which should be perfect for an LED...I dunno (feel my frustration LOL). Anyway, when they work, it's awesome.
To remove the front may light cover, open your sunglasses holder on the roof, and press the two tabs on the back of the light fixture..either side of the front of the glasses drop-down, once that pops free with a little jiggling, the rest of the housing drops straight out. The metal/foil that is used for reflecting is garbage, and a pain in the a$$ to pack back in once you fiddle with the bulbs...assuming you have big hands and accidentally knock it out of alignment...GAME ON from there. Feels like that part gets crammed in there as fast as possible and the cover gets smashed on equally as fast at the Kentucky Truck Plant...poor soul who has to do that all day, like the seventh ring of hell fighting with that.
Other than that, awesome. Be sure to tell me is you find some god LED's...I need to pull the trigger yet, might just do that after this message.
Nels,
Thanks, your instructions go me right in to the map light bulbs. I was able to get the numbers and am now ready to cross reference for the LEDs. Guess what...now I need some help with the rear dome light cover removal. I see no pins or indentions or anything to indicate where to release the lens. Obviously I'm a little afraid of breaking somethings. I figured better to ask for some help of someone that has popped that dude off before then have to order a new lense. Looks like I have two smaller bulbs on the side that can be turned on and off (like the front map lights) and one bigger bulb in the middle that is the dome light (comes on when the doors open)
Brian.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.