lower max boost after upgrades
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 193
Likes: 1
lower max boost after upgrades
Does anyone know if it is normal to have lower max boost after installing a billet wheel, ported intake, and EGR delete? I just got the truck back together and while cruising at 65 the boost has increased from 6-7 previously to 8-9 after the upgrades but now my max boost is only 20 whereas it used to be around 28. I'm not sure if it is just moving more air now or if I have a problem to find 
Also, after finishing the upgrades listed above, my EGT's while cruising have stayed the same- if not, actually increased.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
Also, after finishing the upgrades listed above, my EGT's while cruising have stayed the same- if not, actually increased.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 84
It's a domino effect. You added the ability for the turbo to spool up faster but took away the egr flow. So now the computer sees low egr flow. Even tho you improved air flow the pcm now only has the one intake sensor to read the flow. Now you get to buy a programmer and have custom tunes wrote for it to use all them goodies. Unless you have a leak somewhere.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 237
Likes: 3
From: Athens, Tx
I would check and double check all of your turbo connections. Specifically the y-pipe. Is your truck noisier now that work has been accomplished? The y-pipe clamp will not suck the flanges together.
Matt
Matt
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 193
Likes: 1
There is only one connection that I have been questioning and that is the y-pipe to turbo connection. When I put it back together, there was an 1/8" gap on the bottom of the connection. Normally when I re-install a turbo, the gap is usually on the top and can be ratcheted together, but in this instance I could not figure out any possible way to close the gap so I clamped it down as tight as I could and hoped that it would work its way together once the y-pipe w/ new flex joints was broken in a little. I don't see any signs of soot though even when I feel around the connection with my hand.
As for being louder, it is hard to tell because I swapped from an 04 turbo to the screaming 03 during the upgrades.
As for being louder, it is hard to tell because I swapped from an 04 turbo to the screaming 03 during the upgrades.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
I haven't gotten into modding that much but it seems logical to me. Reducing restrictions will increase flow because there's less to push against. Sorta like how a big high pressure oil leak can cause low pressure oil psi to drop.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 193
Likes: 1
Thanks for the help guys! My first thought was that the ported intake created more flow and less pressure- like blowing air through a straw vs a 1" PVC pipe. You have more air pressure in the straw but more flow in the 1" PVC. I have not done a complete re-learn because I thought that was only for 03 motors.
Trending Topics
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 14,441
Likes: 60
The clamp will not pull the y-pipe and turbo together. If there was a gap before the clamp was installed the gap is still there.
Josh
Josh
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Is your fan control workingproperly? Is your EGR valve still in the intake and it should be plugged in? I agree with previous posters, you do probably need a tune. But, if your not ready for that, clean MAP, and tube, clean EBP and tube, clean MAF, IAT1, and IAT2 and then run the whole relearn procedure. Use MAF cleaner and be careful, gentle. You may ned to soak the tip of the EBP and IAT2 which are in the intake and get sooty. Check for codes, if it still says codes for drive cycle you need to start again. If you are not following a relearn procedure form somewhere I can write it out for you. Let me know.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 28
From: Portal, AZ
they way I have found to help line up that y-pipe is:
- loosen marmon clamp
- loosen but not remove manifold to y-pipe bolts
- loosen turbo bolts slightly
- get a small ratchet strap hook it right in the y section (it will friction lock) hook the other side to something stable (i used my brush guard) crank it down.
- check to see that it is flush all around.
- tighten marmon clamp securely, 53 IN-lbs
-re-tighten turbo mounting bolts
-re-tighten manifold to y-pipe bolts
- loosen marmon clamp
- loosen but not remove manifold to y-pipe bolts
- loosen turbo bolts slightly
- get a small ratchet strap hook it right in the y section (it will friction lock) hook the other side to something stable (i used my brush guard) crank it down.
- check to see that it is flush all around.
- tighten marmon clamp securely, 53 IN-lbs
-re-tighten turbo mounting bolts
-re-tighten manifold to y-pipe bolts
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 193
Likes: 1
OK guys, I tore it apart today and the y-pipe did appear to be seated properly so I can check that off the books 
I have already cleaned all sensors that I could possibly find during the upgrades. Currently the EGR valve is removed but after seeing the problems first arrise, I plugged it in and left it rolling in the engine bay and it didn't make any difference except for taking care of a code or two. I found a re-learn writeup that I will try tomorrow. I did do a test tonight and watched MAF at 65mph and it was 155-160 whereas a buddy of mine who has a billet wheel and factory intake only runs 130-140 so I think that proves that I am moving more air than stock even at less boost.
Another thing I may have forgot to mention is that I removed the factory throttle plate assembly and replaced it with an 05 intake elbow if that affects anything
I have already cleaned all sensors that I could possibly find during the upgrades. Currently the EGR valve is removed but after seeing the problems first arrise, I plugged it in and left it rolling in the engine bay and it didn't make any difference except for taking care of a code or two. I found a re-learn writeup that I will try tomorrow. I did do a test tonight and watched MAF at 65mph and it was 155-160 whereas a buddy of mine who has a billet wheel and factory intake only runs 130-140 so I think that proves that I am moving more air than stock even at less boost.Another thing I may have forgot to mention is that I removed the factory throttle plate assembly and replaced it with an 05 intake elbow if that affects anything
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lakewood
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
8
Aug 10, 2010 05:30 PM