Went ahead and ordered from the site RLA linked me to. Should be here no later than Wednesday.

Thanks everyone for the help!!!!

 

Radio Shack in Gainesville fl. has 10uf 63v P/N NTE NEV10M63BA 1 ea .43 ea.
and 47uf16v P/N NTE NEV47M16BA 2 ea .40 ea
This was a week ago per phone check.
These fit my 94 F-150 302 EFI Mazda 5 spd. EEC-IV F4TF-12A650-AVA.
My EEC-IV was replaced 15 months ago (372mi.) by a repair shop. They installed a used one from scrap yard. It is now NFG - no codes, very rich and fuel pumps run all the time. I would never install a used one without opening it up and checking for leaking capacitors and board condition. Soldering in new ones looks risky and my board has a 3/4" brown goo spot and delam, so I will have to buy a rebuilt one. I just don't know which brand to buy. Advance has Cardone for $235.00 and NAPA has one for $249.00. Rock is cheaper but through the net and I want to open it up and check the board for condition and cap replacements. What brand is recommended by you guys here on FTE ? - This is one great site, and has helped me lot! Thank you to everyone here.!

 

RLA has suggested RockAuto since Standard Motor Products does a great job on Rebuilt PCM's.

 

Just updating this...

I got the capacitors in and replaced them in the C3W (F3ZF-FA) PCM. Took my time and everything looked good when done. Hooked up the PCM and can't connect with code reader..Not a good sign. Fuel pump worked as normal, but noticed my AFR gauge stuck in the far end of RICH. Started truck and it didn't like it. As of right now, no clue if the PCM was bad before or not. I never did try it before replacing capacitors. That was my mistake.

So round 2, different PCM. Another A9P, but I plugged it in, and everything worked as it should. Ok, so since I know that one works, I open the PCM I have been using now for 2 years, another A9P. Its awful inside!! One 16v 47uf is completely green on the negative polarity side. The other 16v 47uf has brown goo on it and the board, literally 1/4" in size. The 63v 10uf looks ok and no sign if damage.

Also, I'm doing this in a 40 minute window. I pull all my equipment out again and start soldering. As I begin heated up the one with green corrosion, the sucker comes right apart in my hand, leaving both leads stuck in the board. So get them all replaced and box screwed together, holding my breathe, plug code reader in, and it connects with System pass code of 11!!!

Got a chance to drive it today and about 30 mins worth. Got back home, ran KOER and system pass!! So far, very pleased at the job I did.

Looks like the other C3W PCM needs to be sent off for testing as it has other processor problems. I noticed the 60-pin gasket wasn't there so it looks like it had problems when it was last used.

 

Rock called me today – they have no stock of the Standard Motor Products EM8357 and no stock at the SMP warehouse either. So, I had to reorder using a Cardone 785865. Hope life cycle is good. Advance sells the same unit too, for $75.00 more. The other parts have been shipped – SMP VS52 (EVR ) and AIRTEX 2N1043 (CANP). I still suspect the MAP sensor too, but don’t have a freq. Meter.

 

I used the 50v 10 uf rat shack one in mine, still running strong!

 

Received a reman computer today, Cardone brand, no Standard Parts brand in stock or at warehouse at Rock. Inspected it and found new capacitors installed. they used 63v 47uf on 2 of them and 100v 10uf on the other one, CNHG was stamped on the sides of all. There is a void in one of the solder lines near the front. They ran a wire on the bottom side from 2 transistor looking things to repair it. The yellow caps or what ever they are look new too. Over all unit is very clean and recoated. I will find out if it fixes my problems this week end.

 

If all other options fail, Napa auto can send your computer in to be refurbed. Just FYI.

 

Slowmo, sorry to hear that you couldn't get a SMP PCM. Hopefully the Cardone PCM will do the trick. Can you shoot some pics of the repairs made to the board? I'd like to see it.

Just updating this again...

I happen to tinker with the Failed C3W PCM and after searching on Google, with no definitive answers, I cane across a PDF from 1997!!!! It actually helped me find my root cause and it turned out to be a bad trace!

Looking through the board for several days yielded no results. So after seeing the PDF and the 60-pin harness circuits, I finally got my answer. I was looking at the STI output and showing nothing there, I just happen to see the SIG reference pin. That is pin #46. Sure enough, about 3/8ths of the trace is lightly burned, not completely scorched, but enough to damage the trace. It never appeared to me, so I felt confident now that the capacitor replacement went fine and it was just trace that is damaged.

My QUESTION... Can I fix the damage myself or should I take it to a repair shop? I will try and get pics of all the repairs asap.

Happy Easter FTE members!

 

Did you ever end up repairing that burnt trace? If so, I would like to see some pictures of the work you did.

 

I didn't repair it myself. I ended up finding a electronics and TV repair shop that replaced the remaining capacitors and repairing the trace. They did 2 PCMs for me and it only cost me $75.

Well worth it since the trace could have been easily damaged without a proper soldering iron.

 

For a way not to do it see:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...uestion-6.html

 

I've been subscribed to this thread for a while & have posted my own adventure:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-thread.html

I ordered 2 strips, 10 each caps @ both values from TX via Ebay yesterday for $10 & change. When they get here chapter member Iwarrior is going to take a swing at doing mine.

We'll let y'all know how it works out.

 

The capicitors have a number 1 thru 3 which one is the 10uf
I have a 1995 f150 4.9 ltr manual trans. I replaced the 3 CAPICATORS with 47 uf and discovered that one should have been a 10 uf now I am not sure which one should be the 10 uf. I will attach a picture of the board

 

Hand drawn locations of capacitors on my '88. The arrows indicate the orientation of the negative leg of the capacitors.


A picture of the board in the same orientation as the drawing.