dumb head stud question..
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Elder User
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From: Manteca
dumb head stud question..
Getting ready to replace the engine in my 93 C.C. with a new unit, I bought head studs simply because its a new engine (I'll do one stud at a time) and I'll be running my same r&d 90cc with the ATS turbo.. anyway my question is the instructions say to install the stud "hand tight" then torque to 125ft#lbs.. hand tight as in screw the stud in till it stops and then tighten the nut to 125??
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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If they are the ARP headstuds, then that should work just fine. Make sure the threads in the block feel clean when you put the stud in -- you want to make sure it goes in all the way, not half way and stops at a bit of crud.
I cheated a bit when I did it -- I put a hex-bit on my dewalt impact driver and installed them that way with low torque(which would put them in at <30 ft-lbs), and checked that they were all the same height. Had one or two which were higher and I got them to go down further, but I'd never cleaned the threads on that block.
Either way, get the stud all the way in, then torque down the nut.
I cheated a bit when I did it -- I put a hex-bit on my dewalt impact driver and installed them that way with low torque(which would put them in at <30 ft-lbs), and checked that they were all the same height. Had one or two which were higher and I got them to go down further, but I'd never cleaned the threads on that block.
Either way, get the stud all the way in, then torque down the nut.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Manteca
If they are the ARP headstuds, then that should work just fine. Make sure the threads in the block feel clean when you put the stud in -- you want to make sure it goes in all the way, not half way and stops at a bit of crud.
I cheated a bit when I did it -- I put a hex-bit on my dewalt impact driver and installed them that way with low torque(which would put them in at <30 ft-lbs), and checked that they were all the same height. Had one or two which were higher and I got them to go down further, but I'd never cleaned the threads on that block.
Either way, get the stud all the way in, then torque down the nut.
I cheated a bit when I did it -- I put a hex-bit on my dewalt impact driver and installed them that way with low torque(which would put them in at <30 ft-lbs), and checked that they were all the same height. Had one or two which were higher and I got them to go down further, but I'd never cleaned the threads on that block.
Either way, get the stud all the way in, then torque down the nut.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 919
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From: Newberg Oregon
I torqued mine to 110 , 100k miles ago and have seen 240 degrees and 19 psi boost, so fwiw, I like the stock torque spec.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2009
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From: Inman KS
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From: Manteca
Good point, I'll post up a picture of the destructions tomorrow lol, it say 125ft-lbs.. now I was reading that once torqued that I'd have to loosen the nuts again and re torque 3 times?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Maple Valley, WA
I have plenty of 7.3 studs at the 150ft/lbs level, and to be honest, I wouldn't run them any less. I have tested several 8740 Bulk studs to past 170ft/lbs without stretching, so there is no reason to leave them less than that, especially since the head fastener bosses arent connected to the bores. ARP is a big business and they are very cautious in their spec to avoid warranty issues, CYA at its finest.
I just Torqued the set I had in my IDIT from smogie to 150 to put in my N/A bronco, and had no issues.
Don't worry about it.
I just Torqued the set I had in my IDIT from smogie to 150 to put in my N/A bronco, and had no issues.
Don't worry about it.
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From: Manteca
I have plenty of 7.3 studs at the 150ft/lbs level, and to be honest, I wouldn't run them any less. I have tested several 8740 Bulk studs to past 170ft/lbs without stretching, so there is no reason to leave them less than that, especially since the head fastener bosses arent connected to the bores. ARP is a big business and they are very cautious in their spec to avoid warranty issues, CYA at its finest.
I just Torqued the set I had in my IDIT from smogie to 150 to put in my N/A bronco, and had no issues.
Don't worry about it.
I just Torqued the set I had in my IDIT from smogie to 150 to put in my N/A bronco, and had no issues.
Don't worry about it.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 919
Likes: 4
From: Newberg Oregon
I have no issue with the extra torque, I may do it on the next engine. It will be working hard all the time packing the camper and towing.
When I built the 4x4 engine the studs I used were the first ordered from ats, so there was no experience out there.
The DPS studs were proven faulty.
I have 100k on that build so im good with the performance. If anything the bulk ARP studs will do the job well at 110 ft lbs , more torque will allow the higher pressures , yeehaa.lol
Just make sure your block threads are clean and inspect for corrosion, giving what happened in the referenced thread.
When I built the 4x4 engine the studs I used were the first ordered from ats, so there was no experience out there.
The DPS studs were proven faulty.
I have 100k on that build so im good with the performance. If anything the bulk ARP studs will do the job well at 110 ft lbs , more torque will allow the higher pressures , yeehaa.lol
Just make sure your block threads are clean and inspect for corrosion, giving what happened in the referenced thread.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Northern Arizona
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ead-studs.html
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Elder User
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From: Manteca
You do not back the nuts off inbetween steps. Just use the lube and torque them in steps, in sequence... there was a discussion on that in the last half of this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ead-studs.html
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
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Yea, most people dont have one, but you should use a bottom out tap to make sure the threads are good then use lots of lube. On a fresh engine, im sure this was done and its fine, so just lube, make sure the bolts coming out are clean.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,941
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From: Maple Valley, WA
Being you have the Actual ARP Supplied Stud kit, they are ARP2000 Material, which means you could even go more if you wanted. All the testing Ive done has been on the 8740 Studs, and they will take 170-180ft/lbs before Yield. The ARP2000 Material is about 10-15% higher in strength, so Im sure these would see upwards of 200ft/lbs before permanent stretch... I haven't got to test one yet because you cant just buy single ARP2000 studs. I don't think these are necessary on the 7.3, the 8740 stuff is proving itself well on high boost stock compression engines, even with stock type crappy HG's. However, I will be Running a set of these on the P-Pump build with Fire-rings, and I will run them to at least 170ft/lbs, Possibly 180...
Everything Aside, You wont see any detrimental effects of running these to 150. The Head fastener bosses are all tied to the bottom of the block, not the cylinders, so bore distortion is almost non-existent, the extra torque is going to transfer directly into clamping force on the gasket, and that's it.
