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Bad Rings or Valve Seals?

Old Mar 16, 2015 | 10:19 AM
  #1  
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From: Front Range & Gunnison
Bad Rings or Valve Seals?

Morning folks. Still basking in the glow of my turning signal success. Now back to school.

Symptom; about 30 seconds after cold startup, my truck starts smoking like crazy. Thick, blue smoke. BUT, only from the right side exhaust. There is a small, almost undetectable amount of the same blue smoke from the left side. After about 3-4 minutes, the smoke stops.

Questions:

1) does this smoke, pattern, and timing indicate bad rings or bad valve seals? Or something else?

2) does the right side only smoke indicate something other than a bad....whatever on the right side, and not on the left?

3) could the answer to #1 be "both", possibly? Aside from having a compression test done, how could I tell if the rings need replacing (or a whole engine job)?

Thanks fellas,

Mac
 
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 02:31 PM
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Blue smoke on start up, = bad valve seals/guides, the oil used to lubricate them runs down and pools on the piston. Upon start-up, all that oil starts burning off. If it was smoking non-stop, then you would look towards rings, crankcase pressure pushing the oil up past the rings. If you coast down a hill, when you give it gas, do you see a puff or so of blue smoke? The vacuum is drawing the oil down the valve guides/seals.
You CAN change valve seals whilst the engine is still in the truck,,, did it once,,, better than pulling heads, or engine, but still a bit of a PITA.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Pickupmanx2
If you coast down a hill, when you give it gas, do you see a puff or so of blue smoke?
Yep. Very noticeable.

Thanks for your help.

Another question; why just on one side? I mean I now know the cause, but why would one side be so much worse than the other?

Mac
 
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 08:46 PM
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Ummm,,, your truck is left-handed, and the right side wears out quicker from more use,,,
I'm left-handed, and my right hand has most of the major scars,,,
 
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Mac J
Another question; why just on one side? I mean I now know the cause, but why would one side be so much worse than the other?

Mac
Hard to say. I have found valve guide seals in little bits floating around on top of the head (which can then plug oil channels). So anything is possible.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 08:53 AM
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Before you do anything involved, pull the offending side valve cover and check the drain backs at the back of the head.
Is it clogged?
If so clean it real well, put your cover back on and see if you're still smoking.
Oil can pool way up in here and go down the guides very easily.
Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 10:35 AM
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Good point Marc,,, I got busy after my facetious response and forgot to come back with a serious response.

Originally Posted by turbohunter
Before you do anything involved, pull the offending side valve cover and check the drain backs at the back of the head.
Is it clogged?
If so clean it real well, put your cover back on and see if you're still smoking.
Oil can pool way up in here and go down the guides very easily.
Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 03:46 PM
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From: Front Range & Gunnison
Mark,

Thanks. I'll take off the valve covers and look for a clog or if there's any noticeable difference between L and R.

One thing comes to mind; a couple months ago I noticed some oil dripping from what I thought was the valve cover. So I cranked both the L and R covers down tighter. It seems like the smoking got noticeably heavier on the right side after I did it.

I'll check and report back.

Love this forum.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 04:07 PM
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Did some more research and found the quote below from:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-fouled.html

"I ran into this same type of thing ~20 years ago. Got a 71 F100 from a freind who was convinced the engine was toast. Smoked badly most of the time, and had a dead miss at idle. Perfectly clean on the outside. I just needed a truck, and was very low on funds, as my son was only 3 days old (be 20 in ~ 6 weeks).
I put dual exhaust on to replace the nearly rotted off stock single, and only the pass side smoked, and then only if the truck wasn't parked in a nose-down position.
Popped off the right hand valve cover, spilling ~1/2 qt of oil, and rodded out the drain hole. No more smoke. Ever.
The miss was just #6 exhaust valve burned.
Got another ~60K miles out of that 360 before selling the truck with 175K on the original 360 and C6 still running like new."

This is very encouraging, as the symptoms sound very similar to mine. Getting excited to tear into it....
 
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 04:48 PM
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Outstanding!! Hope it is a quick fix for ya!
Make sure you let us know!
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 03:05 PM
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From: Front Range & Gunnison
Originally Posted by turbohunter
Before you do anything involved, pull the offending side valve cover and check the drain backs at the back of the head.
Is it clogged?
If so clean it real well, put your cover back on and see if you're still smoking.
Oil can pool way up in here and go down the guides very easily.
Good luck.
Just pulled the valve cover. Didn't see any noticeable floaties. Some oil pooled in the both the drainback "sumps", but no clogging. Reamed them out anyway with a super stiff ty wrap. Will be investing in a new gasket however.



Front drain back



Rear drain back

Sorry for the poor image quality. It was a blind shot.

Any more suggestions before I begin valve seal replacement 101?

Fail or not, this is pretty fun.

And thanks as always.

Mac
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 03:13 PM
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Yeah those aren't bad at all.
Oil still pools pretty well in there. You may have a bad seal. Or any one of ten other things it could be.
The most important thing is you're having fun.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 03:58 PM
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If you have an air compressor you can buy an adapter(or build your own) to go in the spark plug hole. Hook compressed air to it and it will hold the valves up while you replace the valve stem seals. Not that big of a job really. Probably can borrow a tool from your parts store to depress springs. And as a bonus it will give you an indication of what kind of shape your rings and valve seats are.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by gatorfor88
If you have an air compressor you can buy an adapter(or build your own) to go in the spark plug hole. Hook compressed air to it and it will hold the valves up while you replace the valve stem seals. Not that big of a job really. Probably can borrow a tool from your parts store to depress springs. And as a bonus it will give you an indication of what kind of shape your rings and valve seats are.
Do a little research on the process if you haven't already. The compressed air method works, but still scares me. I use a soft nylon rope and just stuff it in the cylinder through the spark plug hole.
 
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