There was a recent thread with a user thinking of rebuilding the 360 vs. a swap. I'm sort of in the same boat, although neither would happen anytime soon funds will need to be set aside slowly.
My 360 has a tick that sounds like a lifter and with it running and me under it sounds like the it's at oil pan level. I know tracing engine noises can be impossible sometimes.
To finally get to my point. With 360's considered big blocks are motor mounts the same as a 460? My thoughts of not considering a small block, 400 or 351, is the weight of my truck, mounts would need to be changed I know, I just don't want to be underpowered by going small block.
It's not a race truck nor will it be it's a cruiser, I just want to be able to shut up those little tuners cars that pull up sounding like a pissed off june bug.
Kind of more of an opinion thread I guess.

 

360s are part of the FE engine series, and the 460 is part of the "385" series. Go down to the engine forums and you will see what engines fall into those series. Big block doesn't really work when you get down to specifics with Fords.

You can be under or over powered with any sized engine, so don't get hung up on SB/BB.

Since you have an FE motor, the "easiest" way to more power is to stay with the FE. Aftermarket cranks can take you out to 445 with the 360 block and a .030 overbore.

A 460 swap is popular, possibly cheaper, but will require (probably) mounts and (definitly) a different bell or automatic transmission. As with any engine series change, a number of other "little things" come into play as well like exhaust, cooling, fuel delivery etc.

Check out the FE forums. There are countless 360/390 build threads.

 

There was also someone on here chimed in with a Cam meant for the low compression 360. If I were you I'd watch and see how this 360 build goes. It has been said recently there are no higher compression pistons out there for a 360. A fresh 360 with that cam, 600 CFM Vac secondary 4V, intake, Pertronix, hot coil, headers, and high flow exhaust may be all that's needed for your taste.
Well that explains a lot.
Rasputin53

 

You mentioned wanting to make your truck a "cruiser." You also mentioned the irritation of "tuners."

The 360 was built to be a low RPM torque engine, designed to pull heavy loads at a blistering pace of about 45-55 MPH.

It doesn't really matter what engine you have under the hood. If your rear end gearing is 3.25-4.11, the "tuners" are going to have something you do not --an overdrive transmission. You're terminal velocity is going to be reached in a very short distance, theirs isn't.

There are no overdrive transmissions that bolt directly to an FE block (not without adaptive means), even with overdrive, the 360 FE is designed for low RPMs.

The 351W is physically a small engine compared to a 360 but, it's only 9 cubic inches smaller than an FE 360.

There's a vast array of speed parts as well as factory production performance parts available for the 351W. Aluminum heads, intake and water pump will also make the 351W much lighter than an FE 360. --this translates to better steering and handling of the truck, since there would be less weight hanging over the front wheels.

Unlike the FE 360, there are numerous choices in overdrive transmissions (standard & manual) that will bolt directly to the 351W block, without the necessity of expensive adapters.

Depending on how much money you wanted to spend, it's possible (with the right factory performance siamese bore 351W block) to stroke a 351W to 454 cubic inches -- almost 100 cubic inches bigger than what you currently have (94 cubic inches bigger than a 360). --this would be expensive but, it is possible.

Without this expensive factory block, common 351W engines can be stroked to 393, 408, 410, 416 or 427 cubic inches.

Even if the regular 351W was not stroked, it has a higher RPM range capability than the 360 and it can be made into a stout performer with a few good engine parts, good rear end gearing and an overdrive transmission.

 

I would consider a diesel swap in your case. Heck I've toyed with the idea of a 4BT in my truck. But I don't have the time, money or need. And I like my cleveland. Maybe someday....

 

Too much thinking without enough research.

It's all relative but a $150 shortened input shaft for a TKO is better than a $650 QuickTime bellhousing for the FE. I don't consider that an expensive adaptation. However, obtaining a TKO transmission itself is a different matter.

Just know that a short-shaft TKO is a pure bolt-on to a bone stock FE bellhousing. Been there, done that.

 

Say you go big block and lovein it until the price of gas goes up & over the 4.00 mark and your getting 8-10 mpg. It really hits the hurts wallet.

Then you start kind of thinking you should of went with a SB. 302 that you'll get more bang for your buck gas wise.

And many places now days don't have the higher octane gas as it is getting harder to get if your engine is pumped way up where as having to use the higher octane ratings.. Ouch in the wallet

Then E-85 seems to be sweeping the whole country now days no good for these good classics motors. Even E-10carp in these old motors is still no good in them.
But yet some guys put in the cheapest gas as that all they can afford and thinking if runs it's okay.

Then they setup the timing max advance then wonder why it pings or the engine won't shut off when they turn the ign key off.

Just a few these to things about when building a engine..
Orich

 

Basically, overdrive trannies on an FE comes down to these simple equations:

Low buck transmission + expensive adapter;

Or,

Low buck adapter + expensive transmission.

I chose the latter because a cheap transmission isn't cheap is it needs to be rebuilt. With a higher cost typically comes mechanical certainty. You make the call.

 

I have proven the theory of cheap= expensive myself.

 

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Thanks for all the input/advice/suggestions.
I know the 360 is a stump puller I just want more power around town when I feel like showing off with my old beater truck. Tuners...ah tuners...don't want to race them just shut their pipes up at the 60' mark. I’ve sort of been following Rasputin53
thread it’s what gave me the idea of what’s next for my engine.
Right now my truck isn’t my daily driver so mpg isn’t a huge concern, soon one of my daughters will be driving it and she is a lot smarter than I am with unnecessary driving. I think my old 460 was at about 8mpg.I did get 12 once, dropped in cold plugs, while I was driving around our beautiful country for a year checking out the unusual and rarely seen towns along the way.
Anyway, I do appreciate the input that’s what makes this forum the best I’ve been on.

It’s a good mix of respect and condescending information.
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->

 

How do you figure? The 360 was a smog engine. A 361 or 391 "was built to be a low RPM torque engine, designed to pull heavy loads".


Both the Clark 264VO and 280VO will bolt right behind an FE with the right bell housing.

Last time I checked, a 360 will turn 5,000 RPM's no problem. Retarded cam timing (which stock 360's have for emission purposes) actually moves the torque curve higher in the RPM range.

 

Skirted block where the crank sits inside, rather than its centerline being even with the pan rail. Cross-bolting, ala the 427 side oiler, was intended to further increase strength along with the oil journals to feed the main bearings... again, for high RPM use.

 

Ford's numbers show peak torque at 2600 and HP at 4400 for '71. Those are old gross numbers, net numbers are lower, not so much because of smog but because they are on a different measuring standard. You may be able to get 5000 rpm out of a 360 but the power has dropped way off by then. 327 ft/lb at 2600 drops to 257 at 4400 if you have 215 hp. By 5000, I'd bet both were close if not below 200. Others here have reported trouble getting over 4500, one guy claimed to rev his to 7000 regularly. ymmv.....

Serving suggestion: Performer manifold with 500ish 4bbl, & decent headers. Add the transmission as per post 6. Drive it. Decide if you want to spend more. ymmv.....


My apologies, I tried to mix this up with my comments mixed in with the quoted post. I am too lazy to re-do the post. Everyone I've seen on this site will figure it out.....I'm so ashamed.

 

360/390 share the same block, the bore is the same (4.05"), the stroke is different.

Stroke: 360 = 3.50" / 390 = 3.78."

If you want a 390, you don't have to swap it in. All that's required is to install the 390's crank, rods and pistons into your 360.

 

I really need to get my truck on a dyno and figure out how strong it is and where.