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Freshly assembled with all new parts and tested at 180 amps. Only problem I have is the self exciting harness. They told me to just hook up the battery wire and tie back my small connector. How is that going to affect my instrument panel and pcm? This regulator won't work with my harness but it's supposed to be better than the one that will. Some of you guys who know alternators well have any thoughts on this? I don't have a problem changing the pigtail if the other regulator is really what I need. Just waiting for the truck to cool a little before I install it..
Well, after some hassle (wrong pully) got it installed. Expected issues with ScanGauge and got them but it was different than I expected. The video is the first crank with it installed, I wanted to catch it if something smoked -lol. This is also the FIRST video I've ever posted here. Please ignore my babbling. I type a lot more than I talk, unless I been drinking . Anyway the question I guess is, do I need to swap this regulator to one that is supposedly weaker but will plug into my truck (with a pigtail change) or stick with what I have now?
I see you are a Jaguar fan, I used to be BIG into British cars I had his and hers XJS', one was a oil leaker, completly rebuilt the motor within 3000 miles it was leaking again that was a 85. The 86 was the Prince of darkness, I could never take it out at night. It would drive great all day with the lights and ir and everything on till it got dark, then shut off and not start untill morning. I sold them as a pakage deal for 7 grand........... moral of the story, Ill take the 6.0 problems anyday of the week
The Jag is a "Lumps" (Chevy V8). I enjoy driving it, sooo much different than the 6.0. It's a pretty quick car with traction problems even with the IRS. I have a rack to go on it, the one that's in there is pouring power steering fluid and its leaking brake fluid from a rear caliper. I've got very little $$ in it actuially but lots of hours. You're right on the wiring issues also, anywhere there is heat, the insulation is falling off the harness and the Britts have a whole different way of wiring and just designing stuff, two motors for the heat/AC??!!
They way they prepped it for me they have the yellow wire going to the bat post and a white/black stripe looping around to another plug on the alt. I guess the snipped off the red/green wire at the plug... I didn't unplug the connector to see if all three pins are used on that regulator.
Does it make sense that my actual battery voltage is 14.14 and the ScanGauge says 13.6 now? How can I not have a battery light when the sense wire isn't connected to anything? I don't know if you watched the video but at first start voltages stayed 12.2 ish for a long time then once I revved the truck the first time it went up and stayed up. Is that maybe related to using the larger pulley?
Seems they are are trying to make the 3G into 1 wire hook-up which doesn't work very well and the reason why you had to rev it to get it to charge. Exactly the same as a 1-Wire GM alternator works.
Thanks Josh. Gotta quit and crash for the night. Work tomorrow then out of town for a day or two (Hotlanta Ga ), may be the weekend before I can get back to it...I can see the batteries are charging well once you rev it the first time after starting (yup just like you said it's going to be that way after every start it looks like) and I could maybe monitor FICM vehicle power or another PID to get a more accurate read on the battery voltage on the ScanGauge but I'm not happy with the set-up like it is. I think I'll modify it like you suggested and see how it acts.
Thanks Josh. Gotta quit and crash for the night. Work tomorrow then out of town for a day or two (Hotlanta Ga ), may be the weekend before I can get back to it...I can see the batteries are charging well once you rev it the first time after starting (yup just like you said it's going to be that way after every start it looks like) and I could maybe monitor FICM vehicle power or another PID to get a more accurate read on the battery voltage on the ScanGauge but I'm not happy with the set-up like it is. I think I'll modify it like you suggested and see how it acts.
Have you considered adding another charge wire? I installed the DC power 185 and noticed that I was reading 13.5 volts on my Edge Insight which was a disappointment as with the OEM 110 it was consistently 13.6 to 13.8 so I added a 1 AWG charge wire from the alternator to the passenger side battery and now have up to 14.4 volts as read on the insight and as everything heats up drops to around 13.9 to 14.1 as read on the Insight. And AMP testing the two charge wires shows that the new charge wire is carrying 90% of the load, which makes me wonder if the factory charge wire is even adequate for the OEM 110 AMP alternator.
. Anyway the question I guess is, do I need to swap this regulator to one that is supposedly weaker but will plug into my truck (with a pigtail change) or stick with what I have now? 
