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Hi Ford owners, I've got an 77 Ford F-150 custom. It has issues of course. I am not new to wrenching, however it's been awhile since i've done it on a regular basis. My first experience was helping my dad on his 49 Ford V8 custom. I was 5 years old. I started by learning the tools so I could hand them to him while he was working on the car. It was a flathead with a 2barrel Rokchester? carb. Autos and trucks have come a long ways since. I am of the opine that it has not exactly improved some aspects. My 77 F150 has the electronic ignition, and thats about it. The fuse panel is a nightmare. So, I'm going to cercumvent the old fuse box. One of the obsticles Is that the grounding is VERY corroded. So, my bright idea is to create a new ground using a copper residential grounding rod connected to the batteries ground wire engine connection. A bolt into the block, and run the lights ground wires to it. Sound good? Please let me know if this is a good idea. I have the new fuse panel for blade type fuses, and 16G wire. So forth yada yada. Will it work?
The headlight wiring harness is notorious causing issues and possible fires, do not tap into it for anything extra added to the truck.
Clean your grounds, replace the ground straps, replace the fuse box all together or the ground bus bar on the back side of it, it is not that hard either way.
This is a great "brutality honest" place to come for assistance on everything and how to NOT burn your truck to the ground.
A complete new harness is better that a possible fire starting repair.
A corroded ground is easily replaced. What you are thinking is trouble. One of my biggest problems with my truck was a previous owner did some wire work. I believe his work, was fine for awhile. This guy tried hard to do a good job. It gave me a headache for a couple months.
My opinion, do not do it.
Just about everything you've mentioned sounds like a dangerous nightmare.
You don't need a grounding rod; residential electrical belongs in a residence.
You DO need circuit protection; especially if you plan on doing any other work of this caliber. Every wire you overload, and I have faith that you will overload them at this rate, will turn into a relatively truck-length red hot fire hazard.
Whatever nightmare your fusebox is can't possibly, POSSIBLY be worse what you plan on doing unless it's all direct-to-ground shorts and even then, the fuses will STILL protect the wires like they are supposed to.
If you want to update your wiring, take a look at EZWiring. Their products are fantastic and the price isn't beat by anyone on the market I've found.
I'd be very surprised if anyone on this board helps you with this project.
Last edited by psychlopath; Mar 8, 2015 at 09:15 AM.
Reason: Made more scathing.
Remember the old Aamco commercial?
"Lemme try boss i always wanted to fix a transmission"
That was my immediate thought upon reading using a ground rod
I agree that using a residential ground rod is a dangerous and unwise thing to do , but I give OL FLATTOP credit for being SMART enough to ask advice on his dubious plan before he actually did it!
Thanks for the good advise. My main problem is not being able to find the correct glass fuses for the fuse panel. The fuse panel is corroded beyond belief. The places where the ground wire for the turn signal/running lights are so rusted that they soon lossen the connecter. I replaced the headlight switch as per instructions. Unfortunately the factory didn't have enough wire for it in the harness, So they turned the switch up-side down. that put the fuse and stuff on top. OK so I took the old one out and replace it sepparately. The head lights work fine. I put a new Hi-Beam/dimmer switch on the floor. I bought a new front left running/signal (amber)
for the front. This truck has been driven over so many salted roads that pretty much EVERYthing is cracked or corroded.
Can I ground to a common ground, one in the front and one in the back? I can clean up the light bulb sockets, and have a new on for the amber housing. I'm thinking that the guy I bought it from used it only for hunting, and in Utah they don't care what your driving to carry dead bodies. I am hesitant about drilling a hole in the frame for fear of making it weak. Like I said there's allot of rust on the normal ground mounts. I know enough to be able to put fuse links in there prope place. I was entending to put the flashers in they're proper place also. I have the Haynes manual and the owners as well, but there not good for a broken old fart like me because reaching the fuse panel is a major pain.
I'm puttin in a pic of the truck so you can see what I'm working with. Note the body cancer.
Thanks for the help
Doug AKA OL FLATTOP
I am sure some where in Ut they sale glass fuses....
I am also sure that a small factory hole already in the frame can be located and cleaned up to use as another gnd point? Tail lights sockets just drill another hole in the sheet metal next to the old gnd point.
Hanes and owners manual are about as good as TP when it comes to real work being done on these trucks.
Get a actual Ford maint manual on a CD is the way to go IMO. Or just ask on here and one of us will have an answer you like.
You can run a new small ground wire from the battery to the fender, and a new ground from the block to the frame.
From the pic. You do not have as much rust as I imagined.
Centech Wiring Inc.
Harnessing the power of performance..ck these folks out
The shop is my parking space. So, I do the best I can. I could rebuild a Holly 4bl when I was 12yr.s my interest in vehicles took a turn in the 70s because of all the electronics. I bought this one because it only has electrical ignition. Trouble is I'm 58 yr.s old and don't have the physical stamina to work on it all trhe time. I do hope to be able to customize it a bit. Working w/limited ssd income doesn't make it easy. Not bitching, just giving the reason I don't have it in a shop (my preferredmethod)
So, it's going to take me awhile. Please be patient with my stupid questions.
Doug:-)
Be REALLY REALLY CAREFUL with your fuse box and the wiring. Personally, I wouldn't run anything less than 14 gauge, especially outside the cab just for physical strength. Also use wiring that is "limp" (lots of strands and thick insulation). Use marine wire if you can afford it. Make damn good crimps, those are your real life line to keep things flowing. Make sure and protect the routing as well (use grommets, tie downs, etc.). Make sure you really understand the basic concept of what a fuse is supposed to do. If you make a bad crimp on an "improperly" protected circuit....well, the consequences have been posted.
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, but I give OL FLATTOP credit for being SMART enough to ask advice on his dubious plan before he actually did it! 
