02 F250 SD 175K miles.

This problem I have searched all over the net for and havn't found it.

it started, truck would startup in about 3-4 turnovers or quicker, scan gauges you could put in gear and go.'

then it got to where when you put it in gear and went, it would cut out when you were steppin on the gas, 2K + rpm..... take foot off the pedal ...rpm's would fall down and die....

lonng start and start back up, You had to let it sit there, idle and warm up to operating temp. and it would be fine....no more problems. Every cold start (Im talking even in 70 degree weather) you had to let it warm up to Op. temp and it runs fine.

Now its got to where, you start it, idles rough surge a few times like its trying to idle up to warm up and just like if you give it the gas, and it dies......Longgggggg start and it will catch and start back up, I cant hardly keep it idleing long enough to warm it up now without running batterys down from long start..

valve on fuel bowl had been leaking for a while, and thought it was leaking fuel out while sitting overnight and sucking air, so took fuel bowl of and did seal kit and new valve to fix the leak,,,,but that didnt have anything to do with problem now. yes it is a little white smoke on start now.

it was running and I shut it off lastnight. Hoooked scanner to it, key on wont link up cant connect. frustrated I tried to start it and it cranked and idled fine, then started surging a little and died. tried scanner again and it connected this time, only code I could find (aint real good with scanners its borrowed from a friend.) but it was P1670......

anyone shed some light at which way to go?

Edit: okay after posting, I went back out......got it cranked, plugged scanner in again and got 5 codes:
P1670 - Electronic feedback not detected
P0381 - GP/Heater indicator circut
P0460 - Fuel level sensor A circut
P1212 - Injector Control Pressure / lower than desired (engine crank or run)
P1211 - Injector Control Pressure /Higher/Lower than desired (engine running)

I shut it down, unplugged scanner........restarted truck and it ran fine.....no smoke, no surging....even running up to 2000 did nothing, let off and it idled fine about 6-7oo rpm like it always has.

I am really scratching my head now!

thanks,
Brent

 

ICP
IPR
Fuel
CMP

echo=on

Step #5 Electric Fuel Pump Pressure

Tools: DVOM / Fuel Port Adaptor and Pressure Gauge 0-160 PSIG

a. Verify that the fuel pump has voltage and gnd. present at key on.
b. Measure fuel pressure at the Fuel Bowl Test Port key on.
c. Instrument Spec. 45 PSIG min. / WOT Under Load =/> 42 PSIG.
* If pressure fails low, go to step 8c on the Performance side of this sheet to identify cause

Step #6 Perform KOEO On Demand Test

Tools: Bi-Directional Scan Tool

DTCs set during this test are current faults.
Note: IDM DTCs displayed here could be current or historical faults

Step #7 Retrieve Continuous Trouble Codes

Tools: Bi-Directional Scan Tool

DTCs retrieved during this test are historical faults. Note: IDM DTCs are cleared when codes are cleared.

Step #8 KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test

Tools: Bi-Directional Scan Tool.

a. All injectors will momentarily buzz, then individual injectors will buzz in sequence 1 through 8. IDM DTCs may be transmitted after test is completed.

b. Note: IDM DTCs may be historical if not cleared above.

Step #9 Data List Monitoring

Tools: Bi-Directional Scan Tool

1. Select the parameters indicated from the NGS parameter list and monitor while cranking engine.

Parameter/Spec:
a. V PWR / 10.5 volt min.
b. RPM / 100-150 RPM minimum
c. ICP / 500 PSI or 3.4mPa min.
d. ICPv / 0.25v – 0.30v
e. FUEL PW / 1 mS to 6mS

* V PWR -If indicating a low voltage condition, check battery voltage, charging system or power and ground circuits to the PCM. GO TO PINPOINT TEST A

* RPM -Low RPM could be an indication of starting/ charging system problems,

RPM indicated with the engine cranking -could be CMP circuit fault, check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes. GO TO PINPOINT TEST DG

*ICP -A minimum of 500 PSI (3.4 mPa) is required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the reservoir, system leakage, injector O-Rings or faulty IPR could cause pressure loss.

*Go to section 4 step 9c in the PC/ED Manual for a detailed description on how to perform this test. Note: If no RPM signal is received, IPR duty cycle will default to 14%

*FUEL PW -Even though a 1 to 6 mS FUEL PW is shown, it’s possible the IDM did not receive the signal due to a CI or FDCS circuit fault or internal IDM failure.

echo=off

 

Have you checked your oil level? It sounds a lot like its low on oil.

 

wow, how embarrasing that is........It doesnt smoke, never a drop on the grnd under it,......gauge always shows good OP,....last change like almost 5K ago,(4600).....ready for a change now. BUT, that did it...

sometimes still a little long start, sometimes when you kill it and re-start it busts right off in 2-3 turns (like it always has).
Idle- smooth (about 6-700rpm). I can run up to 2k and hold it, runs perfect.
Let off and slows to perfect idle again,....no missing, shaking and dying.

in 52 yrs, thats a first for me (and last LOL)

Thanks for pointing that out carltonwebb,


and thanks whitetmw for the info you gave me, still trying to figure out what DVOM means or is..

 

Digital Volt Ohm Meter, aka multimeter.

 

Put 100 miles or so on it and it will start normal again. It has air in high psi system. Did you have to put about 2 gallons in it?

Thick oil and low cannot keep up the flow rate and it does what u described. The colder it is outside, the more likely it is to act up when low.

My truck has a leak that flows more when u load it. Now that its getting warmer, I am about to order the parts to fix it. It has gotten me a couple times lately.

 

thanks pickachu....

Yep carltonwebb.....right at it, and I couldnt believe I let it get that low.,...I dont check it like every tank of fuel ....but evidently I let it slip, I do always look at gauges though, and wow....low sure didnt make a difference on a gauge.
so that explains why it started cutting out until you let it warm up to op temp, when oil got hot and would flow better. Sure glad you enlightend me on this one. I appreciate it.

 

Hard to trust a factory gauge, way to inaccurate.