Hello , Newbie here, Name is Jeremy , I have an 2001 F-250 , 7.3 , six speed, 4 by 4 , 8 ft bed , with overload spring and towing package . It has only 93K on it . Used to haul a 4 horse gooseneck trailer and now hauling a 5th wheel camper trailer . I have really only used this truck to haul horses , hay, cars , and camper trailers .. Have not used it much for non -towing use . So sometimes it sits for a while sometimes in the barn but more often out . Here is my problem …
Two weeks ago I started her up after sitting for about 2 weeks and I got the “ service engine soon “ light. She sounded like she was not hitting on all 8 .. I shut her down , restarted and all was well . Drove to town and back with no problems . .. She sat for another week and a half and so I started her to see if it ould happen again and it did.. That was yesterday. So I first checked the fuel filter , found it nearly perfectly clean, and ran some Lucas injector cleaner thru the system . She still was sputtering and it appeared that she may have only been firing on one bank … I tried shut down and restart several times and it started pouring down rain so I quit for the day .
Today after doing some internet research , (how I found your forum) I started her up again and had the same problem .. So I sputtered her up to my shop door and let her run that way in order to do a crayon to exhaust manifold test to see if one bank was not firing and which one. I was also going to try to check the UVCH (under valve cover wire harness connection) . All of a sudden she kicked in and was running perfectly before I could find a crayon . So I scrapped that idea ..
I then checked the outside the valve cover elect wire connections , they were tight and wiggling them did not affect the smooth running. I checked the ICP sensor connection for oil fouling , none there . Drove it around for a while …no problems .. I then ran out of time . I was going to check the connection on the IDM but found that I have to take off my factory installed running boards to get the fender well plastic out .. Have the nuts sprayed with deep creep for a later take off .. Also I plan to check the UVCH connection when I have enough time to do these 2 jobs .. Im old and busted up so things take me longer to do than most. Im not a real experienced wrench either , except on Model A’s , but I figure I can learn as long as Im still kicking.
So . Here are my questions .
1. Since the issue seems to go away after its warmed up , what are some other possibilities?
2. Since she does run fine after warm up , could it still be a loose connection ? … doesnt seem like it would be .
3. Any advice on how to proceed will be much appreciated ,, have a 2 week window to get her right in November Thanks , Sincerely , Jeremy

 

You are doing all the right things in a logical manner and you seem to have hit some of the major culprits with the symptoms you describe. I would suggest getting that code read, but don't go to AutoZone or O'Reilleys or one of those places. They don't have the scanners capable of pulling codes on our trucks. They (our trucks) have an OBDII port but are NOT compliant so they (the stores cheap readers) won't pull anything. Where are you located? One of the "Brotherhood" here may be somewhere near by and many of us have been known to do another person a "solid" and use one of our diagnostic tools to see what is going on.

 

With Carriage Returns <CR>

Hello, Newbie here, Name is Jeremy,

I have a 2001 F-250 , 7.3
6 Speed 4x4, 8 ft. bed
Overload Spring and Towing Package
93K Miles
Used to haul a 4 horse gooseneck trailer and now hauling a 5th wheel camper trailer.

Two weeks ago I got the “service engine soon “light, sounded like she was not hitting on all 8. Restarted and all was well.

Drove to town and back with no problems (MILES?] Sat for week and a half and it happened again.

I checked the fuel filter, found it clean, and ran some Lucas injector cleaner thru the system. Still was sputtering, may have only been firing on one bank.

Today after doing some internet research, (how I found your forum) I started her up again and had the same problem, looked for a crayon to mark exhaust manifold. I was also going to try to check the UVCH. Suddenly, it was running, so I scrapped that idea.

Checked the outside the valve cover elect wire connections, they were tight and wiggling them did not affect the running. I checked the ICP sensor connection for oil, none. Drove for a while, no problems

I plan to check the UVCH connection and IDM connection when I have enough time. I’m old and busted up so things take me longer to do than most. I’m not a real experienced wrench either, except on Model “A’ Fords, but I figure I can learn as long as I’m still kicking.

A few Questions:

The issue seems to go away after it’s warmed up. What are some other possibilities?

It runs fine after warmed up, could it still be a loose connection (doesn’t seem like it would be)?

Any advice on how to proceed? It will be much appreciated I have a two- week window to get her right in November

Thanks

Sincerely,

Jeremy

 

Several Sensors can cause such an erratic idle. The IPR, ICP, CMP, and ECT all provide in/out to the PCM when both cold/warm to maintain a smooth running engine during warm-up. But, unless you have expendable ca$h, you want to just replace parts and "hope" you find the issue.

Yes. Connections and wiring change characteristics when heated/cooled.


I would first suggest you acquire a Scantool capable of reading codes. A stored code may provide the best direction. Scantools which are "Bi-Directional" are your best bet. They can display as well as issue commands to/from the PCM. This helps greatly with diagnostics.

Here some things you can do to help troubleshoot the issue:

HARD START/NO START DIAGNOSTICS

**NOTE: A hard start/ No start concern with EOT Temp. Below 60*F GO TO STEP 10 first. You may wish to plug the block heater in for a few hours and see if starting improves.

Tools: Fuel Filter Cap Removal Tool / Flash Light / Tools Flash Light / White Bond Paper / Stop or Wrist Watch w/Second Hand Sweep / DVOM

Step #1: Visual Engine/Chassis Inspection

a. Fuel

b. Oil

c. HPOP Oil Level (.5" - 1" from top is full)

d. Coolant

e. Electrical

f. Hoses Leaks Check

Tools: Flash Light

Fuel Oil Coolant Electrical Hoses Leaks Check

Tools: White Bond Paper

Step #2 Check for:

a. Contaminates

b. Correct Grade and Viscosity

c. Miles/Hours on oil

d. correct level.

Step #3 Intake/Exhaust Restriction

Tools: Flash Light

a. Inspect air filter and ducts

b. Exhaust system

c. Inspect exhaust back pressure device
d. If you're checking for an exhaust blockage, =/> 2 psig indicates a positive test using a Pressure/Vacuum Gauge.

Step #4 Sufficient Clean Fuel

Tools: Fuel Filter Cap Removal Tool

a. Check if the WATER IN FUEL lamp has been illuminated.

b. After verifying that there is fuel in the tank, drain a sample from fuel filter housing at key on.

c. Fuel pump should run for 20 seconds at key on

Step #5 Electric Fuel Pump Pressure

Tools: DVOM / Fuel Port Adaptor and Pressure Gauge 0-160 PSIG

a. Verify that the fuel pump has voltage and gnd. present at key on.

b. Measure fuel pressure at the Fuel Bowl Test Port key on.

c. Instrument Spec. 45-50 PSIG *MINIMUM* at idle. / WOT Under Load =/> 42 PSIG MINIMUM.

* If pressure fails low, go to step 8c on the Performance side of this sheet to identify cause

Step #6 Perform KOEO on Demand Test

Tools: OBD-II On-Board Diagnostics, Phase 2 Vehicle Media Communications Unit (Scanner)

DTCs set during this test are current faults. Make a note of codes for reference. You, may wish to post them on FTE for further assistance.

Note: IDM DTCs displayed here could be current or historical faults a p1316 code indicates there are DTC's stored in the IDM. A suitable Scan Tool will be required to retrieve them. DO NOT Clear the p1316 DTC until they have been retrieved from the IDM.

Step #7 Retrieve Continuous Trouble Codes

Tools: OBD-II On-Board Diagnostics, Phase 2 Vehicle Media Communications Unit (Scanner)

DTCs retrieved during this test are historical faults. * Note: IDM DTCs are cleared when codes are cleared.

Step #8 KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test

Tools: Bi-Directional Scan Tool.
KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test
** DO NOT CLEAR CODES PRIOR TO THE KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test **

Tools: OBD-II On-Board Diagnostics, Phase 2 Vehicle Media Communications Unit (Scanner)

1. All injectors will momentarily buzz, then individual injectors will buzz in sequence 1 through 8.

2. IDM ** DTCs may be transmitted after test is completed**. Record and post to Forum for further direction.

Note: IDM DTCs may be historical if not cleared above note anomalies in sound and identify weak or no sound solenoids.

3. All injectors will momentarily buzz, then individual injectors will buzz in sequence 1 through 8. IDM DTCs may be transmitted after test is completed.

4. Note: IDM DTCs may be historical if not cleared prior to activating the "Buzz-Test".

Step #9 Data List Monitoring

Tools: OBD-II On-Board Diagnostics, Phase 2 Vehicle Media Communications Unit (Scanner)

1. Select the parameters indicated from the NGS parameter list and monitor while cranking engine.

Parameter/Spec:

a. V PWR / 10.5 volt min (The CMP may fall out of the PCM circuit if voltage falls below 10.5v).

b. RPM / 100-150 RPM minimum

c. ICP / 500 PSI or 3.4mPa min. The ICP should steadily climb during cranking. This indicates a healthy HPOP depending upon how high it climbs.

d. ICPv / 0.25v – 0.30v

e. FUEL PW / 1 mS to 6mS

f. MAP & EBP should be within .5 PSIG

* V PWR -If indicating a low voltage condition, check battery voltage, charging system or power and ground circuits to the PCM. GO TO
Data List Monitoring Parameter:

V-PWR 10.5 VDC Minimum. (The CMP may fall out of the PCM circuit if vehicle voltage falls below 10.5v).

RPM 100 RPM Minimum (0 - CMP Suspect)

ICP 500 PSI or 3.4 MPAM Minimum the ICP should steadily climb during cranking. This indicates a healthy HPOP depending upon how high it climbs.

ICPv (KOEO) Spec 0.20v - 0.30v

FUEL PW: 1 MS - 6 MS (<1 / >6 IDM Suspect)

V-PWR - If indicating a low voltage condition, check battery voltage,
Charging system or power and ground circuits to the PCM.

DC% - Cranking NTE 20% / 65% is closed. (IPR Suspect)

2. RPM - Low RPM could be an indication of starting / charging system problems **

3. No RPM indicated with the engine cranking - could be CMP circuit fault, check for DTC’s.

4. ICP - A minimum of 500 PSI (3.4 mPa) is required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the reservoir, system leakage, injector O-Rings, or faulty IPR could cause pressure loss.

Note: If no RPM signal is received, IPR duty cycle will default to 14%

5. FUEL PW - Even though a 1 to 6 mS FUEL PW is shown, it’s possible the IDM did not receive the signal due to a CI or FDCS circuit fault or internal IDM failure.

6. MAT: Manifold Air Temperature the PCM uses this signal to adjust fuel and timing.

7. VFD (Volume Fuel Desired)

8. MFD (Mass Fuel Desired)

* RPM -Low RPM could be an indication of starting/ charging system problems, RPM indicated with the engine cranking -could be CMP circuit fault, check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes. GO TO PINPOINT TEST DG

*ICP -A minimum of 500 PSI (3.4 mPa) is required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the reservoir, system leakage, injector O-Rings or faulty IPR could cause pressure loss.

*Go to section 4 step 9c in the PC/ED Manual for a detailed description on how to perform this test. Note: If no RPM signal is received, IPR duty cycle will default to 14% - Monitor when cranking.

*FUEL PW -Even though a 1 to 6 mS FUEL PW is shown, it’s possible the IDM did not receive the signal due to a CI or FDCS circuit fault or
Internal IDM failure.

Step #10 Glow Plug System Operation

Tools: DVOM / Stop or Wrist Watch w/Second Hand Sweep

a. Glow Plug ON time is dependent on oil temperature and altitude. The Glow Plug relay comes on between 1 and 120 sec. and does not activate EOT is above 131 F.

b. Verify that B+ is being supplied on the large BK/W wire going to the Glow Plug relay.

c. Ensure Batteries are Fully Charged No-Load Voltage of 12.6 or > is REQUIRED. Attach voltmeter leads (I like Alligator Clips) to the glow plug feed terminal (two brown wires or center terminal on the shunt) and the other (GP Side) Lug. When key is "ON" you should read approximately 11.5 vdc +/- .5 vdc when GP Relay is activated. A reading closer to system voltage may indicate a defective GP Solenoid or wiring issue. A reading lower than 10.5vdc indicates an issue with the Batteries.

d. Using a Bi-Directional Scan Tool, conform EOT is < 130*F, verify glow plug "on" time.

e. Turn key to run position, measure voltage ("on-time") (Dependent on EOT and altitude) Relay on time Spec. Measurement 1 to 120 seconds B+

f. Note: Wait to Start Lamp "on" time (1 -10 sec.) is independent from Glow Plug "on" time

g. Glow Plug Resistance

h. Remove both 9 pin connectors from valve covers • Measure each Glow Plug resistance to Bat. Ground. Measure engine harness resistance to relay. .1 to 2 ohms

i. Glow Plug Connector to relay 0 to 1 ohms

FRONT
#2 #1
#4 #3
#6 #5
#8 #7

*Add 5 seconds to glow plug on time when above 7000 feet in altitude, but not to exceed 120 seconds.

 

Jason Thanks , Im in NW Washington state .. Bellingham is closest city ,I live in the sticks ..Im looking for a code reader to borrow up here.. Thanks for the comeback and advice


Tom White Thanks yes agreed , or no I am not going to start changing parts out .. One You Tube Video I watched said a Ford ICP sensor with harness was 312 bucks .. No way I can afford to crap shoot parts .. I gotta know its NG before buying another . So far I think my best shot is to get access to the right code reader.