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Just started. Replace fuel pimp and bracket 8 months ago. Now, three times in two days ...freely cranks, but does not fire. It has been suggested by a key man that my ignition key "Ring Transponder(??) is failing, about a $50.00 part.
Any links to a step-by step to where I could do this myself? ($$$). I don't know what to call it, so it makes it hard to search online.
the part he referred to in under my ignition switch shroud...but that"s all I know. (I was driving when I talked to him and forgot the exact term he used (I'm old, and easily confused by anything post ignition points and condenser)
The first fail (yesterday) had no indicator lights while dead or cranking. Started fine this morning, drove to shop, where they had to guess some because it was running fine, with no trouble lights, and replaced the Fuel Pump Relay...which was fine until later today, after a stumbling start at a market, the "Theft" red light did blink as I drove home.
the shop put me in touch with the Key Guy, who explained it probably be one of three things:
A failing ECM:
A failing cluster (but my odometer was reading correctly, and he said it would show all dashes if that were the case)
A failing Ring (?Modulator/Transmitter/??) that was located around the ignition switch, under the cowling) the later sounded the most promising to me....
but I failed to write down what he told me (I was driving down the highway), so I did not get the name of that part...so I can't seem to look up a replacement guide.
Nothing in that description indicates that you have a PATS problem that is preventing the engine from starting. A PATS event is characterized by a fast-flashing THEFT light and an engine that will refuse to start. A faulty transponder ring will give that specific failure indication.
I'd suggest replacing the PCM power relay and see what that does.
There are plenty of other things that can cause your symptoms, so be observant whenever a failure occurs.
First replaced the Fuel Pump relay (under hood black cover)...that seemed to work...but problem returned next day, so replaced the PCM relay (as suggested here), which happens to be the same part # (first was 413,00, next was $15.00...different suppliers). (I'm keeping the two old ones in my glove box, just in case)
Has been doing fine for a week now, so I think (hope) that its cured!