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Nope, not that simple. Need a longer push rod for the master cylinder as well, plus you will likely need to change out your master cylinder to distributor brake lines to accommodate the booster.
And then you need to source some manifold vacuum to supply power to the brake booster.
There is one nice thing about having the booster - when your master cylinder leaks, it won't be into the cab behind the firewall and under your floor mat or carpet...Just saying.
The booster has its own push rod on both sides... input and output.
Booster, booster bracket, check valve, vacuum hose, manifold fitting, hose clamps... and longer lines for the mc because it moves forward about 8 inches.
The main issue is typically the pushrod length btwn the pedal arm and the booster bracket linkage.... not insurmountable.
....There is one nice thing about having the booster - when your master cylinder leaks, it won't be into the cab behind the firewall and under your floor mat or carpet...Just saying.
The downside is if the MC leaks over into the booster, the brake fluid will attack the booster diaphragm and you'll have to replace the booster too.
The booster has its own push rod on both sides... input and output.
Booster, booster bracket, check valve, vacuum hose, manifold fitting, hose clamps... and longer lines for the mc because it moves forward about 8 inches.
The main issue is typically the pushrod length between the pedal arm and the booster bracket linkage.... not insurmountable.
....and don't forget the hard plastic boot that goes between the booster and the firewall that covers the booster input rod.
When I put the (thick) '75 F350 dual-diaphragm booster on my '69 F100, there was enough slack in the MC lines that I could stretch them out enough to mount the MC to the booster. --They were uglier than homemade sin but they reached without changing them. --however, I knew later on I would be installing a new MC and fabricate new brake lines.
....and don't forget the hard plastic boot that goes between the booster and the firewall that covers the booster input rod.
When I put the (thick) '75 F350 dual-diaphragm booster on my '69 F100, there was enough slack in the MC lines that I could stretch them out enough to mount the MC to the booster. --They were uglier than homemade sin but they reached without changing them. --however, I knew later on I would be installing a new MC and fabricate new brake lines.
After I replaced the MC and made new brake lines.
Could you just fab all my lines for me to save me the headaches
But seriously, could you tell me what your new MC and prop valve came off of?
Could you just fab all my lines for me to save me the headaches
But seriously, could you tell me what your new MC and prop valve came off of?
I currently have '77 F100 front I-beams/discs and the stock drums in the rear. I eventually plan to install rear discs.
My MC is a new unit I bought through NAPA (I don't do rebuilt MCs). It's a 4-wheel disc MC for a 1995 Ford Explorer. It has metric bubble flare ports (10mm x 1.0 primary port and a 12mm x1.0 secondary port). The MC has a 1.062" (1-1/16") bore diameter. The part number for it is M3246.
The disc/drum combination brake valve is an OEM Weatherhead (brass) valve for a Ford truck I bought off ebay.
My original drum/drum pressure differential valve was mounted inside the left frame rail, just rear of the steering gear box. I made the bracket to mount the disc/drum combination valve to the top of the Saginaw PS gear box.
My old drum/drum pressure differential valve.
Bracket I made to attach the disc/drum brake valve to the top of the steering gear box. (old donor '75 Dentside F350 disc/drum brake valve used for mock up in making the mounting bracket).
Booster, booster bracket, check valve, vacuum hose, manifold fitting, hose clamps... and longer lines for the mc because it moves forward about 8 inches.
The main issue is typically the pushrod length btwn the pedal arm and the booster bracket linkage.... not insurmountable.[/QUOTE]
I noticed you said a check valve was necessary. I am wondering where that might install. I am having a problem with too much brake too soon. maybe the rod length, not sure. any thoughts ?
Thanks, i am not sure where a ck valve would be on mine. It is connected to the spacer plate under the carb. not sure where that check valves goes in the vacuum system. it is tied to the vacuum spacer plate under the carb. the brake guy tee'd off the valve cover vacuum hose. maybe a vacuum problem ? too much vacuum ?
Thanks, i am not sure where a ck valve would be on mine. It is connected to the spacer plate under the carb. not sure where that check valves goes in the vacuum system. it is tied to the vacuum spacer plate under the carb. the brake guy tee'd off the valve cover vacuum hose. maybe a vacuum problem ? too much vacuum ?
He t'd in to the PCV hose? That would be a no go. The booster needs to be hooked up to a line where there is all vacuum, not air flow like a PCV.
Gotcha. I'll change that. but doesn't appear to be lacking vacuum. if anything too much vacuum
If your repair order has the MC and Booster part numbers on it research via Google or Bing and find out application for both and more importantly the MC bore diameter. I think Steve and the gang above have it nailed. MC too big a bore and/or the booster's rod to the MC needs to be adjusted shorter. To have the gap Steve posted.