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Here is the 80 HP Daily Driver log Baatzy referred to in the post above.whats left of it - the first recording got overwritten by my fat finger then AE lost communications during this run.......
can't believe I forgot to check the tin nut
Tugly - I e-mailed you this as well, let me know if you didn't get it........
Above image is of the graph from the entire warm up/idle cycle that the videos above were taken during.
After running these tests and warming up the truck and listening to it idle and buzz test I'm confused. The truck sounds back to mostly normal now, I think...
Well I checked that tin nut, still there, still snug, doing its little job. On the downside, my vacuum leak still hasn't fixed itself so my autolock hubs are still manual lock for now . Perfect timing too, cause the yard is about 4" deep in slop, haha, not.
From all the info so far, it seems to point to a sticking IPR, right?
Oldboots, I am guessing you were talking about that knock in the second video? If so, yes, checking torque on my injectors helped get rid of the knock. It is much quieter now.
Yes I am referring to the second video. My engine sounds exactly like that. Is it a big hassle to r and r valve covers? New gaskets etc...???
UOTE=Baatzy;15160304]Well I checked that tin nut, still there, still snug, doing its little job. On the downside, my vacuum leak still hasn't fixed itself so my autolock hubs are still manual lock for now . Perfect timing too, cause the yard is about 4" deep in slop, haha, not.
From all the info so far, it seems to point to a sticking IPR, right?
Oldboots, I am guessing you were talking about that knock in the second video? If so, yes, checking torque on my injectors helped get rid of the knock. It is much quieter now.
It isn't the worst job in the world. My roommate and I still had about 3 hours into the job though. A quick rundown of what needs to be done... Remove both IC tubes, to remove the passenger side, you will need to pop one end of the MAP sensor line loose. Remove the air intake line all the way back to the turbo. That may not be necessary but it declutters the area above the DS valve cover. The 42 pin connector will have to be disconnected and the mounting bracket will come out. On the passenger side the heater hoses have to be pulled from their mounts, then the mounts just pull up and off. Also take the nut off that holds the dipstick tube, and slide the tube mount up and off the bolt (stud). Once you get that done wipe around the valve cover to try to get as much dirt away as possible, then you can start taking the bolts out. Most of the bolts are pretty easy, but there are 2 down by the blower/heater core area, and the rear bolts on each valve cover are a fair pain, expect to spend some time on these. Putting it back together is the reverse of taking it apart, although I do recommend putting the rear DS bolt in first, as thats about the only way I have figured out how to get it together.
I take it you haven't been in there before so pay attention to your valve cover gasket connections, these are known to fail and they can cause all kinds of issues. Make sure the connectors aren't broken, maybe pull them apart and check for any signs of wear and tear. Check the under valve cover harness (UVCH) for wear or brittleness. If you have any problems with any of those, I recommend replacing them. If everything checks out good then you will not need to buy new gaskets or UVCHs, unless you want to for the hell of it.
If you go in there, make sure you have a torque wrench that will do 120 in/lbs, as thats the magic # for the injector hold down bolts.
QUOTE=Baatzy;15160523]It isn't the worst job in the world. My roommate and I still had about 3 hours into the job though. A quick rundown of what needs to be done... Remove both IC tubes, to remove the passenger side, you will need to pop one end of the MAP sensor line loose. Remove the air intake line all the way back to the turbo. That may not be necessary but it declutters the area above the DS valve cover. The 42 pin connector will have to be disconnected and the mounting bracket will come out. On the passenger side the heater hoses have to be pulled from their mounts, then the mounts just pull up and off. Also take the nut off that holds the dipstick tube, and slide the tube mount up and off the bolt (stud). Once you get that done wipe around the valve cover to try to get as much dirt away as possible, then you can start taking the bolts out. Most of the bolts are pretty easy, but there are 2 down by the blower/heater core area, and the rear bolts on each valve cover are a fair pain, expect to spend some time on these. Putting it back together is the reverse of taking it apart, although I do recommend putting the rear DS bolt in first, as thats about the only way I have figured out how to get it together.
I take it you haven't been in there before so pay attention to your valve cover gasket connections, these are known to fail and they can cause all kinds of issues. Make sure the connectors aren't broken, maybe pull them apart and check for any signs of wear and tear. Check the under valve cover harness (UVCH) for wear or brittleness. If you have any problems with any of those, I recommend replacing them. If everything checks out good then you will not need to buy new gaskets or UVCHs, unless you want to for the hell of it.
If you go in there, make sure you have a torque wrench that will do 120 in/lbs, as thats the magic # for the injector hold down bolts.
He never build any ICp until he gets off the throttle and gets a spike...that's what it looks like to me. 90% IPR DC and ~2200 PSI?
To my untrained eye....those are some terrible numbers.
Yeah, it's kinda frustrating. ICP and Duty Cycle look nice in stock then it's way out there in the 80HP tune. I'd expect to see this type of variation between a race/extreme tune and the stock tune. Not between the 80HP daily driver tune and stock.
Hey Baatzy, when u get around to it - how about dataloging one of the 60HP tunes for comparison.
I will try to get a run done before too long, unfortunately while troubleshooting my vacuum leaks I somehow went backwards and now my T-case doesn't even shift. I honestly don't think I can make it off the yard with only 2wd.
He never build any ICp until he gets off the throttle and gets a spike...that's what it looks like to me. 90% IPR DC and ~2200 PSI?
To my untrained eye....those are some terrible numbers.
I have seen this countless times. A hot tune (asking for more fuel than what's available in the injector fuel reservoir) will do this every time. I call it a "Stinky Spike", because I couldn't find any reference to this before I figured out what it was.
As for the VC pop, it's not so bad - if you have the right tools. You will want some seriously long socket drive extensions, a 13mm flex socket, the means to get an 8mm bolt in a tight freaking spot (#5 injector), a 13mm deep socket with a universal, and a cordless drill/impact driver with a long socket adapter is a huge help.
It can take hours the first time around, breaking the grip of aged boots and such. Once everything is worked free and you have the right tools, I've done the whole job in 45 minutes at a casual pace - but I have a level of practice beyond all reason for a DIYer.
Baatzy, for comparison.............here is a run we did on the F-250. Much different ICP & DC numbers. So Rich & Dan - do you think this is a tune related issue or is something up with his IPR? This is kinda new to me, I have not seen Duty Cycle numbers this high before.
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. Perfect timing too, cause the yard is about 4" deep in slop, haha, not.
