Hi all,

On my trip back out to school yesterday I ran into an issue, as I was pulling up a few mile long, semi steep hill I had an? injector start acting up. I wasn't too far from the top when what sounded like my driver side rear injector started sounding weird. It sounded to me like the electrical part of the injector was firing, but the mechanical parts of the injector were not?? I don't know if that's what was happening but that's the best way I could categorize the sound to myself.

Once I got pulled off the road, (couple miles), I popped the hood, and got out and checked the outer valve cover connector, and the 42 pin connector, I wiggled both a little, but they both seemed tight, as were all the battery cable clamps. Doing this, or simply idling for about a minute seemed to have get rid of the knock in cylinder 8?. I got back in the truck, switched it from the 60DD to 25 T tune (PHP library tunes). With this I was able to limp back another 30 miles to home.

Before this issue arose, the driver side sounded kinda funny the entire trip, everything sounded smooth, but I could hear a tick that seemed injector related, and seemed to be coming from the air filter (6637) area.

After I stopped to fix the issue the ticking more or less disappeared, but the engine seemed to be running rougher overall, and when I would hit a hill, it seemed like all the injectors started to strain a little bit, but the truck was able to pull itself down the road at highway speeds (barely).

I had an issue happen like this over Christmas break, almost identical situation. The solution for that was the passenger side ground cable was barely touching the ground post, so it got new cable ends and got tightened down good.

I am thinking something electrical is askew, but I am not sure where. When I get home from school today I will hook up AE and start troubleshooting. I spose thats when I'll get an idea for whats going on.

I think I've got a pretty good foundation on which to start, thanks to everyone on here. I will report back later when I get to working on it, but in the meantime, is there anything obvious I am missing? Do my symptoms sound familiar to an injector somehow failing?

That's about all I have for now, thanks for listening to my story. I'll probably have some more stuff for crowd participation later on.

Thanks,

Baatzy

 

Do you have a way to check fuel pressure as well?

 

Start off with checking codes, Buzz test, KOEO & KOER tests. Let's us know what the results are.

 

Rich, I will do all that testing when I get home from school today. Hopefully we don't get a south wind with this snow we're supposed to get, otherwise I'll have a pile of snow in the garage with me.

I have no way of checking fuel pressure right now, but my tax return might be buying me something that could accomplish that.. .

I forgot this in my first post, but I pulled up Torque during this problem, and battery voltage, ICP, IPR DC and everything else was showing normal. I also did not have any lights set on the dash.

I'll post up some more info come later today.

Thanks,

Baatzy

 

So I did some testing after school and had various results. I pulled codes, which would be all the codes since the first or second week of January. P1211 was the only one that came up of note from what I could tell. The injector buzz test COLD sounded fine and KOEO test netted me a P0605 every time I ran the test and the KOER test yielded a "test completed succesfully" every time.

I then ran the truck through 3 tunes, first stock, then 1100 rpm, then the DD tune I was in yesterday. A slight knock could be heard early on in the stock tune.

Following a warmup, the injector buzz test sounded a little different, and a CCT yielded 3 and 8 to be outta wack. The KOEO and KOER tests returned the same results as above. I then checked for codes at the end of the warmup and I got no codes back.

Below are photos and videos from this evenings testing. I am interested in hearing your guys theories.


Above picture shows codes from early January till today.


Above picture shows KOEO results every time I ran the test.


Above picture shows KOER results every time I ran the test.


Above picture shows CCT results.


Above picture shows codes after I warmed the truck up.


Above video is of the buzz test with the engine cold.

Above video is of the buzz test with the engine warm.

Above video is of me flipping through tunes after starting the pickup to warm up. Slight knock can be heard in the teens.

Above video is of the tick that arrived after the pickup had warmed up a bit.


So what do you guys think? It sounds like to me I have a possible loose injector and a whole herd of injectors that are getting ready to be culled.

Thanks for taking the time to read and look at everything, and I appreciate any and all responses I get.

Thanks,

Baatzy

 

If you were heading west you ran into quite a hell of a headwind yesterday. We were lucky enough heading east on the way home from Rapid City and got a nice push home......

 

How many miles on the injectors? Try adding intake air temp, MAP, BARO & EBP to the live data readings.

 

Will do, on the data readings, although I think my EBP is outta wack. As far as I could tell when we had the injectors out around 212k they are the originals.

 

Above video is of the truck warming up and idling in 3 different tunes. #3 is stock, #1 is high idle, and #6 is the DD.

Above video is of the truck warmed up and idling.

Above video is of the buzz test after the truck was warmed up.



Above image is of the graph from the entire warm up/idle cycle that the videos above were taken during.


After running these tests and warming up the truck and listening to it idle and buzz test I'm confused. The truck sounds back to mostly normal now, I think...

Tell me what you fellers think..


Thanks,

Baatzy

 

That could be a significant clue. P1211 quite often pops up concurrently with low fuel pressure. On the other hand, a chip/tuner can also trigger it.

 

All your tests are in the driveway with low EOT, but the problem occurs on the road with a warm truck. You need to log your data in the real world, then you can share the logs here.

 

ICP Duty Cycle is lower as the engine warms up...................down from 10%+ to 6%

 

You shouldn't be setting the 1211 code in a 60 HP or 25 HP setting, especially when not towing or stomping on the throttle.

How old is your ICP sensor & IPR?

Edit: IIRC but I'm am not absolutely sure - you will set a check engine light when when the ICP is lower than expected but not higher than expected. If your ICP sensor is reading higher than what it should it might be the reason for the low Duty Cycle when warmed up.

 

6% IPR at idle and no power on the road with no smoke? Bad ICP. Clean the connector and put a little dielectric grease in there as a test.

 

I'm with Rich. My first inclination looking at that graph is IPR is too low, but I'd have to look at my logs to compare. Do another run as Rich suggested, logging data while driving once the engine is warm. You can also try starting and driving with ICP unplugged.