need new shocks
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New User
Joined: Apr 2014
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need new shocks
Need some help,I bought new shocks for my 08 E250 but how the heck do get in there to remove the upper shock
Nut.does any body know what size wrench fits that upper nut not sure if it's metric or us .on the drivers side can't even see the nut only part of the threads what bird brain designed that layout ! Or what,s the best way and what tool is best to get in there Please help !
Nut.does any body know what size wrench fits that upper nut not sure if it's metric or us .on the drivers side can't even see the nut only part of the threads what bird brain designed that layout ! Or what,s the best way and what tool is best to get in there Please help !
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
You must be asking about the front shocks?
Short of lifting the body..........which you don't want to do.......
One of the reasons I always buy/use GABRIEL is the nut on the top piston, just under the bushing, insert a closed box wrench on the "hidden" nut, it will turn and hold the wrench in place against the body, and turn the lower shock nut, turning the piston itself. You can also use a pair of channel locks, or vice grips to turn the piston section of the shock.
Could not tell you the wrench size off hand, and your's may be different sized.
Also, if your not saving the old shocks, you can cut the top section off with a zip wheel, sawzall, or torch.
And install the new shocks with the method above.
Short of lifting the body..........which you don't want to do.......
One of the reasons I always buy/use GABRIEL is the nut on the top piston, just under the bushing, insert a closed box wrench on the "hidden" nut, it will turn and hold the wrench in place against the body, and turn the lower shock nut, turning the piston itself. You can also use a pair of channel locks, or vice grips to turn the piston section of the shock.
Could not tell you the wrench size off hand, and your's may be different sized.
Also, if your not saving the old shocks, you can cut the top section off with a zip wheel, sawzall, or torch.
And install the new shocks with the method above.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I myself use Bilstein shocks because of that same hidden nut thing Wildman mentions. It's at least a 3/4" wrench size, is incredibly useful when time to remove them. Another aspect is Bilstein's are a mono-tube design with a boot covering the piston shaft whereas most other brands use a metal jacket for this reason. That tends to prevent holding the piston shaft in order to remove the mounting nut.
Rear shocks can be a bear unless you know the "secret"----drop the rear spare.
From underneath and approaching them from behind the axle makes this remarkably "easy". If you're careful a Sawzall or other similar reciprocating saw is useful as the nuts on top of the shock studs tend to be rusted in place.
Rear shocks can be a bear unless you know the "secret"----drop the rear spare.
From underneath and approaching them from behind the axle makes this remarkably "easy". If you're careful a Sawzall or other similar reciprocating saw is useful as the nuts on top of the shock studs tend to be rusted in place.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
JWA - Thanks for clearing that up, I didn't know if the Bilstein shocks came with the shaft nut. With that "second" nut, sure makes a huge difference on installing/removing the front shocks, where you cannot even see the top mounting nut. 
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 419
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From: Lakefield Ontario
I used the sawzall method for the front top. Made for a quick removal.
I had Sears do the rears for $20 bucks labor eack. Took them hours!
I had Sears do the rears for $20 bucks labor eack. Took them hours!
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From: Detroit
Good advice and what a cool wrench. I had Sears install shocks on my van a couple years ago (some kind of higher end Monroes--Sensatrac) when they were running a "free installation" special. Fronts went very well but one of the rears tied up the mechanic for about 2 hours. I lost my appetite for working on shocks and exhaust systems some years ago...
Thanks for the tips, everyone,
George
Thanks for the tips, everyone,
George
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
One of the best tools I ever "invested" in was a oxy/acetylene torch set, greatest thing for removing "Rust-Welded" bolts/fittings
If anything, just heating up a rusted nut, spins that puppy right off.
Oh.....and using Anti-seize for reassembly on everything.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 246
Likes: 3
I believe it's a 19mm on the 2008. Passenger side isn't a big problem, driver's side is. I have a 19mm angled gear wrench that gets on the top nut and a regular wrench will catch the bottom. I have a 15/14 combo gear wrench that fits 2006 factory and aftermarket (15mm / 9/16ths respectively) that has also been helpful. There are a few situations where the gear wrench really saves the day, and this would be one of them IMHO.
New User
Joined: Jun 2014
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Any shortcuts or tips for getting the upper washer/grommet and nut all re-installed on the stem mount? Successfully removed the blown shock - need to install my 5165s this afternoon - Driver side only, pass side looks straight forward. And FYI there are no upper wrench flats on the shock body below the Stem mount on the Bilstein 5165s
Thanks a Ton
Thanks a Ton
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