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i would disconnect the power wires to the controller and see if the relay still sparks when connected.
it sounds to me like the fender mount started relay may be stuck in the closed position.
Ok, so I went ahead and bought a new starter relay since it was only 14 bucks, swapped all the wires one at a time (I literally loosened them up, took it off the fender wall, then installed the new one on the fender wall and did the wires one at a time just so I wouldn't mix them up). When I went to connect the hot wire to the battery, still sparks.
So I disconnected one of the two yellow power wires, it no longer sparks, my gauge display and everything came up. However, when I turned the truck on my "Wait To Start" light isn't coming up (it did previously) and my glow plug controller is clicking.
Now I read on Diesel Hub that this means the GPC is bad, but the GPC is brand new (I swapped out the previous I'd bought). What gives? Any ideas?
**Update at 2212 hours** Changed the GPC yet again, still the same as before, just clicks. I know I'm hooking it up right this time, so why do they keep crapping out like this? Should I just bite the bullet and stop buying Duralast from AutoZone?
Last edited by Bowebble; Mar 25, 2015 at 10:13 PM.
Reason: Forgot to add something
as for the autozoo parts, yes.
do you have a junkyard nearby you can look for a controller and relay ?
it really sounds like you have a bad ground somewhere.
the white wire off the relay going to the controller is the ground for the relay.
with a test light, hook one side to battery positive and touch the other side to the white wire. the light should light up.
if it does not, you have a bad ground somewhere.
another thought. did they give you a glow plug relay, or a starter relay(solenoid)
glow plug relay grounds through one of the small terminals, and a starter relay grounds through the case.
you can not use a starter relay in a glow plug circuit.
as for the autozoo parts, yes.
do you have a junkyard nearby you can look for a controller and relay ?
it really sounds like you have a bad ground somewhere.
the white wire off the relay going to the controller is the ground for the relay.
with a test light, hook one side to battery positive and touch the other side to the white wire. the light should light up.
if it does not, you have a bad ground somewhere.
Got the test light, hooked up it and touched the ground, it lit up so it's ground properly.
Originally Posted by tjc transport
another thought. did they give you a glow plug relay, or a starter relay(solenoid)
glow plug relay grounds through one of the small terminals, and a starter relay grounds through the case.
you can not use a starter relay in a glow plug circuit.
I replaced both the glow plug relay on the back of the engine toward the firewall and the starter relay on the passenger side fender.
rite. but did they give you a glow plug relay, or a starter relay?
a glow plug relay uses the 2 small terminals as a ground and hot to engage the relay.
a starter relay uses the case to ground, and the ignition terminal actuates the relay. so if they gave you a starter relay instead of a glow plug relay the glow plug system will be all screwed up.
rite. but did they give you a glow plug relay, or a starter relay?
a glow plug relay uses the 2 small terminals as a ground and hot to engage the relay.
a starter relay uses the case to ground, and the ignition terminal actuates the relay. so if they gave you a starter relay instead of a glow plug relay the glow plug system will be all screwed up.
It's a glow plug relay, I put it up against the old one after I took it off to visually inspect and ensure they were both one and the same.
ok. the reason i asked is because the parts monkeys are usually clueless and will swear the part they gave you is a glow plug relay when the part number crosses over to a starter relay.
ok. the reason i asked is because the parts monkeys are usually clueless and will swear the part they gave you is a glow plug relay when the part number crosses over to a starter relay.
Yeah I've learned the ones at Autozone here (except for the older gents) aren't worth a sh**. That and I usually take a part with me to the store that way I can cross reference them to ensure they look the same before I drive all the way home and then have to drive all the way back because it was the wrong part, I hate doing that.
that is part of the reason i do not got to those stores unless it is an absolute emergency.
example: i walked into advanced auto and asked the parts monkey for a T15 screwdriver.
he asked what vehicle? i said 1929 ford model T. he spent 5 minutes trying to look it up in the computer before saying we don't have that.
so i asked him to get the manager, who grabbed the T15 off the shelf rite behind the parts monkey.
example: i walked into advanced auto and asked the parts monkey for a T15 screwdriver.
he asked what vehicle? i said 1929 ford model T. he spent 5 minutes trying to look it up in the computer before saying we don't have that.
so i asked him to get the manager, who grabbed the T15 off the shelf rite behind the parts monkey.
Interesting; our local Advance actually has staff who know their axle from a hole in the ground. It's the Ztoners at AutoZtoned who are, well, Ztoned. O'Reilly is somewhere in between; you have to know which employee to approach.
Short play:
(Curtain rises - scene - inside your local AutoZtoned store)
[Man - bursting through the IN door at AutoZtoned, breathless] - "Quick! Call the Fire Department; my CAR's on FIRE out there!!!"
[AutoZtoner - behind counter, hand on mouse] - "Year, make and model?"
Back again, after getting a few of the previously mentioned gremlins sorted out by the local Diesel shop, I've happened upon another. I believe it may be a fuel starvation problem, but it doesn't happen all the time.
Truck will be running fine (mind you right now there is PLENTY of fuel in the tank), but all the sudden it will lose throttle and no matter how far I try and push the pedal through the floor board, I get nothing. Most of the time, it takes a minute and then the throttle will kick back in, today it actually lost power until it died all of the sudden on me.
I imagine a fuel filter change wouldn't kill her, but has anyone ever experienced anything like this before? I hope and pray it's not the lift pump, fuel pump, or the damn injectors.
same here. sounds like water in the fuel. when you take the old filter off, pour it out into a clear container and let it settle for a but, then look to see if there is any water in it. the water will settle to the bottom
put a new fuel filter on and fill it with auto trans fluid before installing.
start it up and let it idle for 30-45 seconds, then shut it off and let it sit overnight. this will help clean out the injector pump and injectors.
It is possible to screw up hooking up the batteries. When I worked at J.B Hunt I was doing a battery swap on a tractor and screwed up and put the 4th and last battery in backwards. That post shot across the shop like nobody's business
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