another oil burning question
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another oil burning question
I just bout a 91 f250 with the 7.3. it has an ats turbo. I was told it burns alittle oil. After reading on here, I replaced thr CDR and added some seafoam. It burned 4 qts oil during a 90 mile drive. I cannot see a leak anywhere. When I take off the oil cap, I see white smoke. Where do I go from here?
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From: Western Mass
4 qts in 90 miles is not "a little oil"
How are you checking the oil?
Proper way with a warmed up engine, turn the engine off, wait 10 minutes for the oil to drain down to the oil pan. The add oil mark is 2 quarts down. You don't want the oil all the way full, as it tends to burn off quickly if over full. Somewhere in the middle of the hash marks is a good place to have it.
How are you checking the oil?
Proper way with a warmed up engine, turn the engine off, wait 10 minutes for the oil to drain down to the oil pan. The add oil mark is 2 quarts down. You don't want the oil all the way full, as it tends to burn off quickly if over full. Somewhere in the middle of the hash marks is a good place to have it.
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I waited about 10 mins after getting home. I added about 4 quarts to get it about a 1/4 inch under the full line. I added more sea foam with the oil. I might take it out tomorrow and see how it does. I'll update next time I take it out.
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Identify the turbo and look for a rebuild kit on e-bay. Be *very* gentle with the wheels,you do NOT want to ding them and take them out of balance. Inside there are little tiny steel seals that look like piston rings, little shaft bushings that look like carburetor jets, and a couple snap rings. Compressor and exhaust housings can be a challenge. Most have a monster snap ring on the back of the compressor housing.
Some turbos are very simple to "rebuild" others can be a real challenge. Penetrating oil is your friend. Kits are generally less than $50.
Oh and BE WARE of reverse threads on the turbo shaft!
Some turbos are very simple to "rebuild" others can be a real challenge. Penetrating oil is your friend. Kits are generally less than $50.
Oh and BE WARE of reverse threads on the turbo shaft!
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I will look into that. It's an old ATS. It has more of the square head for the air filter. I think it's a 088?
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Had a friend who has a 6.9 look at the truck. He looked at the gauge on the side of the ATS 088 and said it was sucking so hard, it was pulling oil from the valve cover into the turbo. Where the CDR is attached. I took out the air filter and the intake plastic hose, drove it about 30 miles to the auto parts store. I bought a K&N cone filter. I drove it back home and the gauge on the side of the turbo was were it should be. But, I was still burning oil. There was a little white smoke coming out of the turbo where the plastic air intake hose was attached to the turbo and also when I took the oil cap off. It burned about 3-4 quarts in that 60 ish mile trip. I have tried a lot of the oil additives with no luck. I really do not want to rebuild it. I would rather get a 6.9 and put that in. I do not have a lot of money to put into it right now. Any thoughts?
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In my opinion (and shared by a lot of people) you wasted a lot of money on that K&N filter. There are much better options out there. And I STILL say your turbo has a blown seal. If you are dead set on trying to fix it without fixing anything, you can try cleaning out the CDR. Take it off, clean it up as best you can, and then let it soak in straight gasoline overnight. Let it dry and re-install and see what happens.
i ain't rite
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i agree. return that K&N piece of garbage.
inspect the turbo, i bet you are going to see a lot of oil in the intake side and tube.
it really sounds like the cold side oil seal let go and is dumping engine oil into the intake.
inspect the turbo, i bet you are going to see a lot of oil in the intake side and tube.
it really sounds like the cold side oil seal let go and is dumping engine oil into the intake.
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ok, I got everything unbolted from the turbo. I got the compression lid? off. Its the big circle that bolts to the engine. There is a wire mesh cover under it. There was a bunch of rubber pieces on top of the mesh. I cannot figure out how to get the turbo out of the exhaust pipe. I am afraid hitting it too hard with a hammer. Also while looking at the wheel that faces the driver side, I think I saw one of the blades to busted. Not too sure since it was dark out.
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You'll have to get the stock air filter housing, which should be pretty easy/cheap at a junkyard. If you can get the turbo pulled, then remove the up-pipe and down-pipe and crossover pipe. Get a stock y-pipe and whatever it takes to hook that up to the rest of the exhaust.
I don't remember how an ATS 088 connects, and doesn't appear I have that pdf on my laptop (not at home at the moment). Someone had posted a parts diagram for the 088 a few years back, you might be able to find it.
The 093 has a slip fit down-pipe which can be just pulled out from below. You might be able to do the same on yours. One of the ATS designs looked like it was a slip fit for both the up-pipe and down-pipe. Of course that could have rusted into place....
The 093 up-pipe is made up of two cast pieces that press together and then can rust together, thats not what you're talking about is it?
I don't remember how an ATS 088 connects, and doesn't appear I have that pdf on my laptop (not at home at the moment). Someone had posted a parts diagram for the 088 a few years back, you might be able to find it.
The 093 has a slip fit down-pipe which can be just pulled out from below. You might be able to do the same on yours. One of the ATS designs looked like it was a slip fit for both the up-pipe and down-pipe. Of course that could have rusted into place....
The 093 up-pipe is made up of two cast pieces that press together and then can rust together, thats not what you're talking about is it?
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