So here I am after driving for a month this old 1982 F100 in line 6 , I checked the oil and surprise I have some water in the oil? Truck run fine start fine but obviously water from coolant made it into the oil system. Like hood ? Head gasket? Any tip ideas or where to go from there? First time dealing with engine type... Thank you for your help

 

I would change the oil, top off the radiator and then drive it. Check it everyday. Check the water level and the oil level.

If you find the water is leaving and the oil is getting higher, I would check the sparkplugs first. See if there is any evidence of coolant on any of the plugs(green and crusty).

 

Thank you, I did that about 800 mile ago when I bought it. Coolant water level had not change ( down) to any level that I can see and my oil level has not go up either. I did replace the spark plugs and distributor about 500 miles ago for precaution as I intended to drive that truck daily so I will have to look at the spark plug again and update the site. What else could that be if spark plugs come out fine with normal color?

 

What is telling you that there is water in the oil? Did the truck sit for a long time with this oil?

 

nope drive it every days for the last two weeks. first sign was mayo look like light residue in oil filler cap, did not panic as very cold weather at night lately so was thinking condensation first and no visible mayo type down the filling hole however yesterday night checked oil dipstick for oil level and did see some strike of white liquid mixed with dark oil on the dipstick. that was a warning flag as far as I am concern
truck start fine and right away, idle perfectly, never overheated since I have it and for the last 1000 miles I drove it, temp gauge never exceeded 1/4 of the gauge level, oil pressure has been in middle to upper range always with no sign of decrease or fluctuation..
nick

 

My gut says its condensation.

If it's cold out and you're not driving it far enough to get completely warmed up that would do it. Take it for a long run and then see what it looks like.

Also, a prior owner may have installed a lower temp thermostat and that would prevent the motor from reaching optimal operating temp in cold weather.

In addition I would check the PVC... Positive crank case ventilation valve and system. If the crankcase isn't ventilated moisture will build up in there with no place to go.

Beyond that you can pressure test the system to see how well the system holds pressure and see if you can detect a leak.

 

X2 what Brnfree said.


Years ago, my mechanical mentor described an engine as having an "internal rainstorm" every time it cools down. This moisture does not disappear until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. For a large engine to warm up may take 20+ minutes of actual driving.

 

well will continue on tomorrow. this evening checked the basics, no air bubble in radiator, opened the cap started truck, let it run pass warm up and liquid did not blow out on me nor any bubble at the top surface of the antifreeze, so obviously no compression from cylinder getting into the water cooling system. exhaust had a few white smoke at start and condensation droplets but all went away after two minutes after the carburetor choke disengaged. (50 degrees outside ambient temp). idle great, temp within low side of gauge , oil pressure on upper side of gauge.
tomorrow will check compression on all cylinders to be sure no major loss or opening between cylinder and check spark plug color for obvious discoloration from possible antifreeze leak into cylinders.. if all check good I guess I will try to change oil and filter and monitor every day and see what is happening. hope it is just condensation as although head gasket parts are cheap, I am not up for the labor time. any other tip would be welcome..i did notice before starting some serious water condensation in the tube going from the valve cover oil cap to the carburetor air filter box. when I removed the tube to access oil cap water droplets did came out from that tube to a level I have not see before on any car I did work in my past.

 

I agree with the condensation theory. You might want to replace the thermostat just to make sure you have the proper one installed. Checking the PCV valve is a good idea too. Pull the PCV valve with the engine running and make sure it has suction on it.

 

My 53 shows a heck of a lot of condensation when cool outside .
I vote for that as the issue .
As stated above , PCV system and proper operating temp .

 

Wanting to add myself to this thread. I'm thinking of buying a 86 F150. I had a 80 and maybe this is my foray back into the effie market. Wish I knew exactly what type of computer this model year had to check to see if all is on the one I'm looking at.

 

By 86 they were using the EECIV computer, the same as the mustangs used. The 300 sixes used a system with a carb, the 302's used multi-port injection and some of the 351w's used a carb with the computer(I think California models). I don't think the 460's used any sort of computer till they went to EFI in the very late 80's(88?). And the 351w HO's didn't use a computer.

 

well thank to all go it going.
as recommended by Franklin and BRNfree and JWC3 the PCV valve was inop as no suction was going through the condensation build up every night and rather than be sucked in in the intake manifold is dripped down the oil system.
replaced PCV with a new $4 one replaced old oil filler cap who was not sealing correctly either for another $4, changed oil and filter a drived it right back , after 3 days and 350 miles all is still clear, oil, oil filler cap and no trace of mayo anywhere...
thank to all
Nick

 

Happy you got it sorted !
Thanks for posting .