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I've been toying with the idea of doing something like this for some auxiliary lighting on my truck some day as well. I have a ways to go to get there, but this is good info. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
One thing I have considered doing, since I use my truc a bunch of different ways is to build some bed rails out of angle iron, then drill holes through the tops of the bed rails themselves and weld some straps on the underside with threaded holes in them. That way, I could switch from a back rack, to bed rails, to a basket, to a cap, or whatever and alignment would be simple. You just line up the holes, and run the bolts in. My biggest frustration with taking the cap on and off is getting the doggone thing lined up right every time I put it back on. I have guide marks to help with this, but it still seems like a hassle every time I do it. I think it could be done in a way that would be clean enough to look good too.
I read this and I have been thinking... (warning this could be dangerous!)
You could build a frame that sits under the cap that has an attachment point at the front...
The frame could utilize the existing bed holes instead of having to drill.
at the attachment point you could create a quick release mointing system that you coupl plug a headache rack or the roof basket into any time you wanted to switch...
I am thinking something like a stake bed pocket connection system....
put stake style headache rack in...
I don't think it would be hard, just time consuming, plus you could design it the way you wanted it.
Here is kind of an example:
I have a harbor freight 4x8 trailer that I have built short stake side for..when I need to haul my motorcycle, I take the stake sides off and put my motorcycle mounting plate with wheel chock on (it utilizes the front 4 stake pockets) and away I go...
I will see if I can get pictures uploaded tonight.
That would work, but I think I would still want something that is fastened down and doesn't rely upon gravity to hold it on. I'd like to be able to use the rails that I put on there as attachment points for tying things down with ratchet straps, etc. I'm sure you could come up with some way of using cam locks or something to hold the rails over the edge of the bed, but I think I could do it just as easily with 6-8 3/8" bolts. Ultimately I want something that will be as versatile as possible with minimum hassle, so drilling a few holes and fastening some threaded reinforcements under the rails isn't that big a deal for me.
Currently my idea is to have 6 of the style clamps I posted in my last post showing clamp styles. Using nylon nuts to prevent any backing out issues since lock washers arent really effective in the area. My plan is to have a clamp behind the A pillar, and other behind the B pillar and one more towards the back of the cab. If my measurements are correct that puts them about 29" on center. I think it will easily hold 200-300 lbs. I'm going to use 1" square steel tubing. Same stuff I've used for my welding table and chop saw stand. Over all basket size will be 50"Wx60"Lx8"H and will require about 60' of steel. Given what I already have on hand I'll need roughly 40-45 feet. And I'll just have a friend order it with the steel he orders for his business and pick it up. Should be about $50 in tubing. 6'x2" x.25" flat stock and some scrap angle iron will be used to make the clamps. I'll heat it with a torch and put a slight bend in it, weld it to the basket and it will sit on the gutters then get clamped in place.
Currently this project is on hold. I have 270sqft of pavers and 2 cubic yards of sand in my back yard that's the priority before it starts getting two hot. Today I get to dig out about an inch of dirt and get everything level for sand to go down.
Currently my idea is to have 6 of the style clamps I posted in my last post showing clamp styles. Using nylon nuts to prevent any backing out issues since lock washers arent really effective in the area. My plan is to have a clamp behind the A pillar, and other behind the B pillar and one more towards the back of the cab. If my measurements are correct that puts them about 29" on center. I think it will easily hold 200-300 lbs. I'm going to use 1" square steel tubing. Same stuff I've used for my welding table and chop saw stand. Over all basket size will be 50"Wx60"Lx8"H and will require about 60' of steel. Given what I already have on hand I'll need roughly 40-45 feet. And I'll just have a friend order it with the steel he orders for his business and pick it up. Should be about $50 in tubing. 6'x2" x.25" flat stock and some scrap angle iron will be used to make the clamps. I'll heat it with a torch and put a slight bend in it, weld it to the basket and it will sit on the gutters then get clamped in place.
Currently this project is on hold. I have 270sqft of pavers and 2 cubic yards of sand in my back yard that's the priority before it starts getting two hot. Today I get to dig out about an inch of dirt and get everything level for sand to go down.
no since I made the original post I've had some life events happen, first I got divorced, and I just ran for a local office. Hopefully I'll have some free time soon to get started on the project. When that happens I'll update everyone.
no since I made the original post I've had some life events happen, first I got divorced, and I just ran for a local office. Hopefully I'll have some free time soon to get started on the project. When that happens I'll update everyone.
Arizona State House and No I didn't win. In 2015 some shady stuff went down in relation to ballot access and petition signatures making it very hard for people without a lot of big money backing to run against the establishment candidates. In my Legislative District that meant the Democrats ran unopposed, as I wasn't granted a preliminary injunction and allowed to be on the ballot. As a result I have a pending law suit against the State in Federal Court. Which will probably take a year or two to get resolved.
In the mean time im campaigning for Hillary Clinton to be the Ambassador to Syria.
no since I made the original post I've had some life events happen, first I got divorced, and I just ran for a local office. Hopefully I'll have some free time soon to get started on the project. When that happens I'll update everyone.
Well I got tired of waiting on you. lol... JK So I picked up this roof rack for $100 the other day and I ordered some new gutter rail mounts yesterday. I'll start a thread when I get going on it. The plan is to run LEDs on all 4 sides and I think the tricky part will be getting the wires into the cab cleanly. I have some ideas on that. The only other part that I'm unsure about it the rocker switches location.
The guy said it came off a 70's or 80's landcruiser. If I remember right it is 60"x67" but don't hold me to that.
Looks great! For the wiring, run a single whip for the wiring down the back of the cab, then (looping it lower than the entry - creating a drip loop) bring it in the back of the cab behind the seat.
COol, cant wait to see it! Do you have plans for lights?
Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
Looks great! For the wiring, run a single whip for the wiring down the back of the cab, then (looping it lower than the entry - creating a drip loop) bring it in the back of the cab behind the seat.
My idea is to run LEDs on all 4 sides of the rack. I'm going to try to make a quick connect going through the 3rd brake light so I can pull the rack off and on if I need to. Everything could change thought. Have to start mocking things up and see how they come together.
The Smittybilt rain gutter mounts should be here in a week or so and I hope to get started.
I'm notorious for starting a project and not finishing it. You should see the poor job I did with my back yard grass... Just sayin'. I hope your project turns out awesome I'm so damn busy with stuff right now lol.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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