AD's are the factory split-shot injectors in the SuperDuty 7.3. They are 140cc per 1000 shots of fuel.

AC's are single shots, 160cc, and came in some high-torque versions of the 7.3 (the T444 for buses, not in SuperDuty trucks). More fuel, same nozzle as the AD, and single shot delivery.

They are available as new, from Alliant, the OEM manufacturer. Most injector retailers carry them. Some will swap to a larger nozzle if you want, but at this point, I want new, unmolested sticks. For some reason, I envision Rich (Tugly) leaning back in a leather recliner, smoking a cigar, saying "I told you so."

 

Thanks Tom - that's a great write up... I mean Macro. And as it turns out, the safety is still broken on my rep gun.

 

Oh okay I appreciate all the help. can a bad eot sensor cause the smoke. Making my truck think it's super cold telling it to dump more fuel in it not burning it all off. I'm going to need to get ahold of swamps and see what they can do or recommend.

 

The GP Circuit is activated based on both the AIT and EOT. Further, The Fuel Bowl Heater also activates based on their input.

A Bi-Directional Scanner or DVOM can help identify if they are working correctly. I will post the Specs later when I've had a moment to look them up.

 

I was incorrect with some of the information. the accurate information is:

The GP system consists of:
a. intake manifold glow plugs (12A342).
b. glow plug relay (12A343).
c.  powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650).
d. engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor.
e. barometric pressure sensor (BARO sensor) (12A644).

The glow plug system is electronically controlled by the powertrain control module. If the temperature is below 55°C (131°F) the powertrain control module will energize the glow plugs immediately after the key is placed in the ON position. Then, depending on the readings from the engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor and the barometric pressure (BARO) sensor, the powertrain control module determines how long the glow plugs will be on.

The intake manifold glow plugs are located in the cylinder heads (6049), under the valve covers (6582). The glow plugs are self-regulating. If the engine oil temperature is above 55°C (131°F), the powertrain control module will bulb-check the WAIT TO START lamp but not energize the glow plug relay.

The powertrain control module protects the glow plugs by energizing them for short durations if the battery voltage is abnormally high. The glow plug ON time varies from 0-120 seconds depending on battery voltage, engine oil temperature and barometric pressure.

On California vehicles the glow plug monitor system is part of the On-Board Diagnostics II (OBD II) System. The glow plug monitor (GPM) system is designed to find failed glow plugs or failed wiring in the
glow plug system. The GPM system uses a low resistance shunt to conduct current to the left and right bank glow plugs. Three sensing wires measure the voltage drops across the shunt when the glow plugs are operating.
A failure in the glow plug system will set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC).

To reduce white smoke during long idle periods at low ambient temperatures, the ECM will activate the intake air heater.

Specific conditions must be present before the heater is activated:
a. ambient temperature must be below 0°C (32° F)
b. engine oil temperature (EOT) must be below 55°C (131° F)
c. vehicle power (IVPWR) must be between 11.8 and 15.0 volts

 

Thank you for all that information. I'm going to try those sensors this weekend and see if I can get ahold of someone that can put a scanner on my truck. I really appreciate all the help and information y'all have given me thank you.

 

Codycamp, it's great to step through all the testing for this like I did, to absolutely make sure that it is indeed the injectors. However, given the scenario, what I've seen, and what others have seen, I'm inclined to think it is.

A couple notes for testing. You can go all-in and get AutoEnginuity for $360 from RiffRaff. It's incredible for seeing and logging data from all available sensors. Or, people have good luck with a OBD-II Bluetooth adapter in combination with the Torque app for Android devices.

To check glow plug resistance, you can unplug the UVCH connection and ohm the pins. You can also meter the injector resistance here. A better place to meter the injectors, though, is from the 42-pin connector, which will include part of the wire harness. Also, for checking the glow plugs/injectors, this $30 pigtail from RiffRaff is priceless: Valve Cover Gasket Connector Pigtail 99-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance
As for the EOT sensor, you can pull voltages from it and compare to what it should be for given temps, or you can monitor the output of the glow plug relay to get an idea. If it's 50F outside and the truck is cold, I'd guess the glow plugs should run for 20-30 seconds once the key is turned on. If anyone has an EOT-based time chart for glow plug operation, please feel free to add it.

The EBP and MAP sensors affect fuel delivery as well. They should fall within a couple tenths of the atmospheric pressure where you are, which should also match the BARO reading. BARO is built into the PCM on our trucks. Any of the scanning tools should be able to pull those readings for you.

I went through all of this. I also checked fuel pressure. I had a guru of tuning come by and adjust timing on the fly, with no change in smoke. I checked and triple-checked glow plug operation. I compression tested the engine. I swapped PCM and IDM from a known good truck. I re-torqued injectors, which didn't really need it. Nothing has changed the stupid amount of smoke I get on any start when the EOT is below 100F.

Armed with all that knowledge, I approached Swamps, and they are in agreement - it has to be injectors. I'll be doing them sometime over the next two weeks, so I'll keep in touch.

I still highly recommend obtaining a scanning utility, either AE or Torque, for continued use. Trust me, it will pay for itself, keeping you from just chucking money at parts when something comes up. I keep my netbook with AE in the truck on road trips, knowing the brotherhood here could help pinpoint an issue, should I ever have one on a journey.

 

I'm probably going to end up buying one it sounds like a good thing to have

 

This is a great thread!

 

My truck with 170K and original injectors does this on start up in cold weather. (below 20 degrees). I usually let it run for a minute or two and then take off for work and keep the RPM's lower for the first mile or so. Once I start moving the white dieselly smoke clears up quickly, but I get lots of condensation smoke for the first 1/4 mile or so.

 

Yeah, I'm at about 220k and am thinking I should replace my injectors.