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I am afraid we may not be able to relove the issue untill we actually know how the device is made inside. How each component works in relation to all the other components inside.
Myself I have never been able to disassemble one without demolishing it.
Once demolished you can tell individual pieces but not how they work together.
The 7.3 app was designed so that it could be taken apart and cleaned but the 6.0 is glued together. Doing a google search while looking for a drawing;schematic anything. I did find reference to a old post from FTE with pictuers of the 7.3 app but nothing on a 6.0.
I did find a reference for how to get a CAD drawing thru the body builders manual from FORD but just don't have the spare funds.
Anybody want to sacrifice a APP switch?
Damm I was just near a crispy truck and might of been able to
grab the charred remains. I'll keep my eye out for one to disassemble.
One way to look inside one would take it to your local vet and
have they Xray it. Or even better if you know a NDI tech that
can shoot it for you so much the better.
EDIT : If you can tell me it they also use this in lets say a gas powered F-series or E-series or any others.
The guy at the yard said he might be able to get me one. The one in the truck is in a puddle.
From a manual I recall seeing, it was a triple APS (accelerator position sensor), and the signals are different and the ECM checks them to "match". If two sensors break, you get idle locked. I usually see hall effect sensors in these applications, but with single APS w/ idle validation switch or dual APS (cummins engines in construction equipment). The two signals will be, for example, 0-5 volts and 5-0 volts, so if you have .5 on the first and 4.5 on the second, that "matches" and the PCM is happy. If you have .5 on the first and 3 on the second, that isn't a match.
Anyway, dannyboy, what is the issue you're trying to relove? (Or resolve?)
I am aware of how they work electicaly and have cleaned a few on the 7.3.
Cleaning is useually all of the ones I have done ever needed[corrosion issue]
However on a 6.0 the black box is sealed no takeing it apart and back together. Requireing replacement as the only option. $$$ I hate telling a customer he has to buy a $$ pedal when I know a couple of squirts of contact cleaaner would get him going again if I could get it in there.
Over the years I have tried a number of things but none reliable. Just trying to figure out a way. Drilling a small hole in the box works ok but there is a chance of damageing one of the little wheels plus you then need to reseal the hole to keep moisture from getting back in.
