Low Boost Problem
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
From: Goose Creek, SC
Crap, not really looking forward to replacing the HPOP. I'll have to check on the EGR numbers later.
Why would it work better with the MAF unplugged though? I can also hear a lot of air noise with the MAF unplugged. She is also indicating higher boost during normal cruising with the MAF unplugged, 3 psig vice 1 psig at 55 MPH.
Why would it work better with the MAF unplugged though? I can also hear a lot of air noise with the MAF unplugged. She is also indicating higher boost during normal cruising with the MAF unplugged, 3 psig vice 1 psig at 55 MPH.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, IN
Check EGR Desired % and Measured % when ECT = 180 or higher
(EGR in Default mode, = 0, until normal temperature).
Never ran mine with MAF unplugged, so can't help there.
I do have the coding for MAF Voltage if you need.
(EGR in Default mode, = 0, until normal temperature).
Never ran mine with MAF unplugged, so can't help there.
I do have the coding for MAF Voltage if you need.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, IN
Looking back at OP:
Have you checked the MAP hose for obstructions/leaks?
Also, make sure hose nipple on intake manifold is not plugged.
From my recent experience: check CAC boots and Intercooler itself for leaks.
Mine was ruptured at the hot-side end cap = low boost.
Have you checked the MAP hose for obstructions/leaks?
Also, make sure hose nipple on intake manifold is not plugged.
From my recent experience: check CAC boots and Intercooler itself for leaks.
Mine was ruptured at the hot-side end cap = low boost.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
From: Goose Creek, SC
What should boost be at 2500 RPM in neutral and at WOT in 3rd?
I bought it used and am not sure how it is supposed to act.
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
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I was trying to show that with the MAF unplugged the boost levels were up while driving and under WOT.
What should boost be at 2500 RPM in neutral and at WOT in 3rd?
MAP and MAP hose were replaced. Nipple verified clean. CAC boots appear solid. Replaced the hot side from turbo to pipe. I need to determine a way to check the system for leakage. It will boost better with the MAF unplugged.
I bought it used and am not sure how it is supposed to act.
What should boost be at 2500 RPM in neutral and at WOT in 3rd?
MAP and MAP hose were replaced. Nipple verified clean. CAC boots appear solid. Replaced the hot side from turbo to pipe. I need to determine a way to check the system for leakage. It will boost better with the MAF unplugged.
I bought it used and am not sure how it is supposed to act.
Josh
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,833
Likes: 4
From: Jefferson, Iowa
I took a air regulator, a 2" pvc street 90 and plumbed the regulator to the pvc 90 and put a air chuck on the regulator. Then I disconnected the hot cac pipe at the turbo and pressurized it to 20 psi. Now listen for leaks.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 152
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From: Indianapolis, IN
To help us help you, please do the following at your earliest convenience:
1. Reconnect your MAF Sensor, make sure all others are connected.
2. Bring ECT/fWT to normal temperature (190*).
3. Record all your ScanGauge/XGauge readings at KOEO, 640 rpm, 2500 rpm.
4. Go to Advance Auto/Auto Zone, etc - read codes with their scanner - record.
5. Erase codes. (if store employee can't, have them look away while you do it)
6. Read codes again. Should be one present - P1000, Drive Cycle Not Complete.
7. Drive 15-20 minutes, doing a few 10-15 second WOT runs.
8. Return to auto store & read/record codes again (to see which are persistent).
Post results here
Given problem, I expect some P0401-2-3-4 codes and perhaps P123b.
1. Reconnect your MAF Sensor, make sure all others are connected.
2. Bring ECT/fWT to normal temperature (190*).
3. Record all your ScanGauge/XGauge readings at KOEO, 640 rpm, 2500 rpm.
4. Go to Advance Auto/Auto Zone, etc - read codes with their scanner - record.
5. Erase codes. (if store employee can't, have them look away while you do it)
6. Read codes again. Should be one present - P1000, Drive Cycle Not Complete.
7. Drive 15-20 minutes, doing a few 10-15 second WOT runs.
8. Return to auto store & read/record codes again (to see which are persistent).
Post results here
Given problem, I expect some P0401-2-3-4 codes and perhaps P123b.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
From: Goose Creek, SC
I checked the EGR Desired % and Measured % while warm. Desired % was the same with and without the MAF plugged in. It would go to 100% when under heavy acceleration and go to 0% at idle. With the MAF plugged in, measured % followed desired %. With the MAF unplugged, measured % stayed at 0 the entire time.
I think that part of my problem is that this is my first diesel and I am not sure how she is supposed to behave. It feels dangerous when trying to accelerate, but I am also comparing it to gasser acceleration.
I think that part of my problem is that this is my first diesel and I am not sure how she is supposed to behave. It feels dangerous when trying to accelerate, but I am also comparing it to gasser acceleration.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
From: Goose Creek, SC
To help us help you, please do the following at your earliest convenience:
1. Reconnect your MAF Sensor, make sure all others are connected.
2. Bring ECT/fWT to normal temperature (190*).
3. Record all your ScanGauge/XGauge readings at KOEO, 640 rpm, 2500 rpm.
4. Go to Advance Auto/Auto Zone, etc - read codes with their scanner - record.
5. Erase codes. (if store employee can't, have them look away while you do it)
6. Read codes again. Should be one present - P1000, Drive Cycle Not Complete.
7. Drive 15-20 minutes, doing a few 10-15 second WOT runs.
8. Return to auto store & read/record codes again (to see which are persistent).
Post results here
Given problem, I expect some P0401-2-3-4 codes and perhaps P123b.
1. Reconnect your MAF Sensor, make sure all others are connected.
2. Bring ECT/fWT to normal temperature (190*).
3. Record all your ScanGauge/XGauge readings at KOEO, 640 rpm, 2500 rpm.
4. Go to Advance Auto/Auto Zone, etc - read codes with their scanner - record.
5. Erase codes. (if store employee can't, have them look away while you do it)
6. Read codes again. Should be one present - P1000, Drive Cycle Not Complete.
7. Drive 15-20 minutes, doing a few 10-15 second WOT runs.
8. Return to auto store & read/record codes again (to see which are persistent).
Post results here
Given problem, I expect some P0401-2-3-4 codes and perhaps P123b.
The scan gauge reads codes and states no codes and no pending codes. If the scan gauge is not accurate, I'll go to a parts store for a reading
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, IN
You can program an XGauge to readout the DTCs, and it will be accurate. It will Count the codes, but when you go to Scan, it will NOT report any (to include Pending).
I've discussed this with James at Linear Logic - unable to get satisfactory answer from him.
I've resolved to rely on the SG2 to inform when DTCs are present only -- then have to Read, Erase, etc with an Actron from the parts store.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, IN
Re: #3:
I have all 25 available XGauge slots loaded in my SG2 - from BST (Boost) to VGT (VGT Duty Cycle). Then there are the 15 or so Standard pre-loaded gauges.
I KNOW what my 6.0 is doing, and when something is beginning to go wrong.
See my link to the Gauge Chart (plus I have some that are not there, got them from engineer).
Key On Engine Off, in Park, at 190* is Test stage for all Gauges (with exception of certain Voltage Gauges - BAT, FICM, etc).
Using SG2: ICP (Inj Cont Press) KOEO=0, LoIdle(640)=625, HiIdle(2500)=1400
If you read ICP when ECT is 60*, LoIdle will be around 1000 = INVALID TEST PARAMETER.
There are definite rules to follow, or testing is meaningless.
I have all 25 available XGauge slots loaded in my SG2 - from BST (Boost) to VGT (VGT Duty Cycle). Then there are the 15 or so Standard pre-loaded gauges.
I KNOW what my 6.0 is doing, and when something is beginning to go wrong.
See my link to the Gauge Chart (plus I have some that are not there, got them from engineer).
Key On Engine Off, in Park, at 190* is Test stage for all Gauges (with exception of certain Voltage Gauges - BAT, FICM, etc).
Using SG2: ICP (Inj Cont Press) KOEO=0, LoIdle(640)=625, HiIdle(2500)=1400
If you read ICP when ECT is 60*, LoIdle will be around 1000 = INVALID TEST PARAMETER.
There are definite rules to follow, or testing is meaningless.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, IN
It May not recognize vehicle automatically, so go Manual mode.
Last edited by 11jjonn; Feb 21, 2015 at 12:06 PM. Reason: added info