parasitic draw
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Springfield
parasitic draw
I went to start my 2000 f350 yesterday after sitting for a week. On my digital gauge setup, it showed the battery voltage at 9.4 within 30 seconds it lowered to 8.5 volts. Obviously no start. This isn't the first time it did this either. The batteries are a little over a year old and the parts store said they tested fine, the alternator looks pretty new. Where would be good place to start looking for a draw after I get my batteries charged again?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
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How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain: 9 Steps (with Pictures)
Follow this link. For your truck, you will have to disconnect both negative battery posts. But you will only have to hook your meter up to one battery.
Follow this link. For your truck, you will have to disconnect both negative battery posts. But you will only have to hook your meter up to one battery.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Springfield
Quick check before I pulled the batteries to charge showed .31 before I messed with anything. I unplugged my edge programmer from the data link and the reading dropped to .15. Anyone know how to fix the issue short of getting rid of the edge?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Sorry to hijack, but I need to chase down an issue on the wife's truck. Can you or anyone recommend a good meter that will read DC amps? The ones I have don't seem to give any readings that make sense. (figured out one wasn't even DC compatible even though the package said it was)
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Springfield
I had a greenlee meter that would read DC amps but it had a fuse that I wasn't able to track down quickly so now its a volt and ohm meter. I bought a Fluke meter that'll do whatever I need.
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Post Fiend
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Sorry to hijack, but I need to chase down an issue on the wife's truck. Can you or anyone recommend a good meter that will read DC amps? The ones I have don't seem to give any readings that make sense. (figured out one wasn't even DC compatible even though the package said it was)
The best thing to use is an amp probe along with a DMM. What your seeking is a quality meter. Not necessarily a Fluke, most all Flukes are manufactured in China since 2005 excluding existing stock. The same holds true for most others as well.
For about $80 - $500 you can get a DVOM just as good as any on the market for doing vehicles. The difference in price is dependent upon what you want to do with it.
Electronic Specialties sells several models that perform as well as any other out there, Class II and Class III.
A "Generic" Low Amp probe will run about $80 for a good one and $120 for a high Amp Probe.
Check these out as an EXAMPLE of what is considered a "good product" at a "fair price".
Electronic Specialties Inc. Professional hand held automotive test equipment. Automotive Multimeter
Electronic Specialties Inc. Dynamic Voltmeter Test Leads
Electronic Specialties Inc. Professional hand held automotive test equipment. Automotive Multimeter
Electronic Specialties Inc. Professional hand held automotive test equipment. Automotive Multimeter
I would also add, if you don't have access to a Scope or similar Technology you consider one that will measure duty cycles and with a graphing bar.
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