Hey yall,
Today is the first time I was able to see my EOT.

I have an 06 F350 6.0L 4x4 DRW, 74k miles, owned her for around a month now.
I've done blue spring, full engine flush, upgrade to HD ELC, coolant filter and 192* OEM TSTAT.
Saving money for the EGR Cooler and the Oil Cooler, but reality is I'm 2-3 months away from this update.

EGR Valve is getting pulled tomorrow for a cleaning and will replace the Flange and O-Rings.
She blows absolutely no smoke of any kind what so ever.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

Today I ran to work with 46* outside temp and on S FL. flat highways at 65mph, did a 22 mile run after warming her up a bit (155* ECT), I was at 188 -190*ECT and 204 - 207* EOT, I saw as much as a 17* spread.

Off the highway at 25-45mph I was at 190 - 194* ECT and 198 - 202* EOT, I had an 8* spread.

I have read here and been told I should not have more than a 15* spread and should be 4-6* ideal.

Is this an indication of my Oil Cooler/EGR Cooler going Bad?
I also did alot of reading on the Mishi 200* TSTAT, this would close the gap, but does it make sense to put a high temp tstat living in South Florida?
Sorry for being so long winded and thanks for the help.

 

During your tests make sure you're on flat land maintaining around 60mph for 10-15 minutes. Oil cooler replacement is a must when you start seeing oil temps getting high like 230*, then it's a must and I'd consider parking it until you can do the job. What you got right now I'd have no problem continue driving it until you have the time to do it but I'd continue to monitor it.

 

The higher operating temp will get you a more efficient truck and nothing more. Won't hurt it using that T-stat in FL. The higher temp is just a measurement of the coolant, should work no matter the ambient temp, just means it opens sooner in FL heat.

The spread should be checked after a 20 minute run at 60-65 miles per hour, flat ground. It is an indicator that the oil cooler is plugged with higher spread numbers and you should plan to change it out soon if the numbers are higher. I've heard of guys having higher numbers and even some not overly concerned at 15 spread.... but it is an indicator your headed for an oil cooler.

The ERG cooler is normally discovered by moisture in the cooler. Park nose down and pull the EGR valve, if it's wet, it may be ruptured.

 

Unloaded and running flat at 65, I see between 5-9 degree differences. Pulling, I can get from 8-19 degree differences.
If pulling up a hill, the delta difference becomes more evident when cresting, because my ect's drop much quicker then the eot's, sometimes showing up to 21 degrees.
I'm not sure that you're really too bad, however, the flush may have done more to harm, plugging the cooler, then before the flush.

 

IF the temps stabilized at those values it would indicate your OIL cooler is partially clogged. IF however, the numbers were getting progressively higher and the longer you drove the higher the difference (and temps) got that would be even worse. The 15 (or 17) degree difference doesn't mean stop and park, it just means don't ignore it and go towing up a really big mountain every weekend like there is nothing wrong. The risk to the EGR cooler is it failing from having hi-temp exhaust going through it - so, driving around town isn't going to melt your EGR cooler (provided your exhaust temps aren't very high)..

The more often the hot exhaust goes through, and the longer it's hot, the closer to a failure you get. (make sense?)
Since you JUST bought it, you really don't know how "close" to a failure you are though.

EDIT: since you likely had the heat ON, that might of helped pull your ECT down.. Driving in the summer is typically when the difference is greatest (and the A/C is on adding to the engine load)

 

If I needed to pull an 8K lb trailer, would you see a problem in FL flat grounds?

The plan is definitely to change both coolers but I need the cash flow to buy the parts first...I’m hoping income tax helps.<o></o>

 

If the egr cooler isn't leaking you only need to change the oil cooler. The oil cooler is the root cause of egr cooler ruptures.

 

Ok, the ride home was a mirror image of this morning, except it was 65* outside and I ran without heat or A/C...

 

As usual watch your OIL temp readings. Don't let it get over 230*. If it hits 230 pull over let it idle and cool down. For normal use Ford states 200-215 for normal use and 215-230 for severe duty.
I personally would tow to get the job done.

 

So this confuses me even more on what is considered acceptable deltas...if, ford states the following,
"Ford states 200-215 for normal use and 215-230 for severe duty." And the stock TSTAT is a 192*, unless your EOT is never above 207* and mine has not been, it's almost impossible to have the 4-7* deltas that everyone says you should have. TSTAT opens at 192...what am I missing here??
If I install a Mishi 200* TSTAT , will my EOT also jump up by 8* or will it be the same as it is now?
Sorry guys, i am new to the diesel world and far from being a mechanic, I'm only a remove and replace guy trying to use common sense...

 

PCM detunes at 253f EOT. Effectively that is the upper limit.

However, the 15 degree "rule" applies to those that still have a functioning EGR system.

For all intents and purposes those that have the latest PCM strategy (VXCF9) the Wrench Light will illuminate, for the most part, but not everytime, when the Temp Difference exceeds 25 degrees.

By your numbers you need a new oil cooler, but you have time to take care of it. But don't wait too long.

Josh

 

Your mixing things up alittle. No problem.
First, my response was to post #9 pertaining to your question about towing with a slightly higher spread than the recommended 15°. When towing the test is pretty much irrelevant. This is why Ford specifies flat road, empty @ 60mph for +10 minutes = delta < 15°f.
Second, when towing heavy pulling grade you will always show an increase in oil temperature. A hard take off or just keeping up with fast moving traffic you'll see an increase in oil temp. What I was stating was Ford's recommendations for peak oil temps for normal operation and severe duty operation. If your seeing temps for a period of time over 250 get ready for a very expensive repair bill. Don't count on the engine to defuel, there's a good chance you'll be too late.

 

Official Ford test?

The official test is done with an ECT of no less than 190 degrees. If you have 189 or less ECT any testing is invalid.

As for "official" tests It was originally 25 degrees difference normal driving @ 65 mph, then 15 degree difference @ WOT to 49 mph to now it is "OFFICIALLY" in the Service Manual 10 degrees @ 1800 rpm driving 15 minutes.

Service Manual Procedure:

NOTE: Verify that no accessories are in use (engine block or oil heaters).
Clear all the DTCs.

Cold soak the vehicle at ambient temperature for a minimum of 10 hours.

Ignition ON, engine OFF.

Access the PCM and monitor the ECT (TEMP) PID.

Access the PCM and monitor the EOT (TEMP) PID.

Access the PCM and monitor the RPM (RPM) PID.

Access the PCM and monitor the MFDES (MASS) PID.

Record the ECT and EOT sensor temperature values.

Drive the vehicle at an engine speed greater than 1,800 RPM and 15 mg/stroke MFDES for at least 15 minutes. Select the appropriate gear to achieve the operating conditions.

Does the ECT PID and EOT PID temperature values change by a minimum of 6ºC (10ºF) from when the ignition ON, engine OFF valves were recorded?
IF Yes
INSTALL a new oil cooler kit.
IF NO
INSTALL a new ECT sensor or EOT sensor in question.

CLEAR the DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.



In a nutshell 1800 rpm is basically 65 mph for most 3.73 rear gear trucks.


Josh

 

The 15* split is not a hard and fast rule and will not always be true. There's some rational thought to be put into deciding if how you're working the engine is getting you consistent temp readings, or if you're alternating between working it and coasting and causing the EOT to chase the ECT. If I slam the fuel all the way up a 7* grade and coast down the backside of the hill, then it's normal for the ECT to drop rapidly (especially if the fan is on) and for the EOT to drop down over more slowly. If you start hammering up another hill your ECT will jump back up to close the gap, then it'll widen again once you get over that hill. Josh gave you the real tests, but the "65mph steady, flat and empty" guideline a lot of people post in the forums came around to force people to drive in a situation where the temps aren't chasing each other. But the general rule is that in any mostly constant situation, either under load or not, the split shouldn't exceed 10-15* if you're being consistent.

No, the two aren't directly proportional. Both temps will likely increase, but not equally in either percentage or actual value. The coolant flow is routed so that the oil cooler and EGR cooler get flow off the water pump regardless of if the t-stat is open or closed. The t-stat holding a higher ECT doesn't have as much impact on the water flow through the block as it does through the radiator. The higher *fWT will change how the oil cooler cools the oil slightly, but not drastically.

 

Ok, I think I got it, keep saving up to buy and change oil cooler, since it's so close and I'm already there I will also do the egr cooler at the same time. Continue to monitor my temps... I cleaned my egr valve today and really didn't look bad at all, only the top half was partially cake, but all dry, no white marbles that I read about, so i guess the egr cooler is still good. Thanks for the explanation and help guy's.