Have my new (to me) 2000 F250 4x4 PSD with 457,xxx miles.
Truck has been taken care of, have all receipts for all work done since it was bought brand new. I have been driving it trouble free for a few months now. That is, until a couple weeks ago.


It has been getting cold here (anything below freezing is cold in Florida), and my truck has stalled on me twice while its cold and under slight load.


The first time it happened I was running late for work, fired the truck up and let it idle long enough to get oil pressure up. I drove (idled it) a tenth of a mile down my dirt road to a steep hill, truck didn't want to go up the hill, and stalled halfway up the hill. I let it sit for a minute, then tried cranking it. It took 30-45 seconds of cranking and my foot on the gas pedal to get it to start. It idled rough for a minute, then smoothed out and I was able to drive it on to work.


The second time it happened, I was leaving my office for lunch yesterday (it was around 38 degrees). I fired it up, let it idle for a minute, drove it out on the road for about a half mile, hit another steep hill and it died halfway up the hill. Followed the same process as before to get it to start and move again.


Both times it was empty, both times it acted like it wasn't getting any fuel right before stalling. I'm new to diesels, and I know they are don't like running cold. But I'm sure it shouldn't be doing this. I checked the oil, its clean looking and at the right level. Also, I run Diesel Kleen every fill up, as the PO informed me that is what he had done too.


Any ideas? Sorry for the long post.

 

ok so 30 degrees is not cold.. i can start my 7.3 at 10 degrees and go down the road n never worry bout it gelling up.. change your fuel filter.. if thats doesn't work then the next time it happens check your fuel pump.. it mounted on the frame beneath the drivers side door.. you can either feel or maybe even hear it running.. it should run all the time.. in your filter housing there is a spring valve that keeps 30 psi there at all times but it will circulate fuel even with the truck off key on.. if the pump is running then thats probably not the problem.. not saying it might not be week but it will still run with the pump off after its started.. just hard on injectors..
next check your cam position sensor.. its located slightly above the flywheel right above the fan belt.. you will have to get to it from beneath the truck.. its a simple change.. takes 5 minutes.. get one from ford tho cause the aftermarket ones don't seem to hold up quite as well.. I'm actually kind of guessing this is the problem..

 

Yeah, my neighbor has an OBS 7.3 Powerstroke and he told me he thought it was the CPS. I figured it would be more regular if it was a sensor though.


Thanks for the reply

 

not always.. i remember years ago riding with my dad and it wud just suddenly stall a few times and sometimes completely... all you cud do was sit beside the road n crank till it work again.. that was back wen we were knew to the diesel world as well and had no idea what was wrong..

 

Being in Florida, you may not be getting pump fuel that is treated with anti-gel. If you are running B10, it can start to form solids at those temps if not treated properly. The lines from the tank to the engine are particularly susceptible. Something to consider.

 

How long does that take? Should spring up within a couple seconds. High pressure oil fires the injectors and if the oil runs low it will not run. If the low pressure oil pump is weak it is a reasonably easy R&R.


How much fuel in the tank? A common problem is the pick up foot breaking off, at which point it will starve or fuel at about 1/4 tank.


Any check engine light to show there are codes stored? A nifty way to read codes and especially monitor sensors is your android phone, the Torque app, and a ELM327 Bluetooth reader in the ODBII port. With that setup I'd monitor the high pressure oil.

 

I only know of one place that sells B10 (local truck stop) and I avoid buying from there. Its all #2 diesel down here. But I think you're right on us not getting winter blend diesel.

 

-It only takes a couple seconds for the Oil pressure gauge to move and the dummy light to go off
-First time it stalled was at 1/4 tank, last time was at 1/2 tank, I can run it all the way to empty on the gauge and it will run fine.
-I've been looking into that app and reader, just haven't bit the bullet on buying it.
-also no check engine light, and I reckon I need a new OBDII reader because mine shuts the truck off when I try to read codes with it.

 

The four top things that come to mind with a warm truck stalling is

CMP
Fuel Pressure
ICP
IPR

 

Check your oil level if you have not already.

 

The oil is good, I've got a CPS being shipped to me from a ford dealer. Going to try that first, my Father-in-Law (former military mechanic)says he thinks my turbo might be going out as well. So we might get to deal with that too.

 

Turbos on these don't just go out and cause stalling / re-crank issues. Most likely a Fuel or electric related problem. If the turbo was broke you would be hearing gawd awful srceeching noises from the wheel hitting the housing or dumping oil out the back from blown seals. Have you had the intake tube off and looked at the compressor wheel. it is a good idea on a new to you truck. look for fin damage and see if there is any in and out play. Again this is just something to do so you'll know overall condition.

If your using Diesel Kleen in the white bottle with every fill up I would be surprised if you have fuel gelling in Fla. Could still be a fuel pressure issue but sounds like it is only happening when the engine is cold. Having some way to monitor injection oil pressure would be very helpful.

 

no fuel pressure won't make the truck stall... it may prevent it fro starting but once started it will idle without the fuel pump even running.. i do not recommend driving with the pump off but it shudnt stall cause of fuel pressure loss unless the line is almost plugged

 

Engine Stalling Under Load - Fuel Pressure Related Testing.

Fuel Pressure Tests

a. Fuel Pressure at the right head
Verify that fuel is in the tank and the pump is being powered.
Measure fuel pressure at the front of right cylinder head Road Test- engine at full load condition Spec. Measurement / Head 0-160 PSI / WOT 45 PSIG min.
If fuel pressure fails low, Go to step 8c.
If pressure is above min. spec, Go to step 8b.

b. Fuel Pressure at the left head
Measure fuel pressure at the front of right cylinder head Road Test- engine at full load condition Spec. Measurement / Head 0-160 PSI / WOT 45 PSIG min.
CAUTION: Secure hose away from turbo and exhaust
If fuel pressure is below min. spec, replace left check valve
f fuel pressure is above min. spec, Go to step 9.

8c. Electric Fuel Pump Pressure
Measure at fuel bowl test port or fuel outlet from electric fuel pump: 45-80 PSIG
Road Test- engine at full load condition 45-80 PSIG
If fuel pressure fails low, Go to step 8d.
If pressure is above min. spec, replace right check valve.

8d - Electric Fuel Pump Inlet Restriction
If fuel line is restricted above 6 Hg, check for: blockage between pump and fuel tank.
If fuel line is not restricted, inspect regulator valve condition and for debris, If OK replace pump

 

Engine Stalling - ICP

Injection Control Pressure Tests
Injection Control Pressure Tests (Oil Aeration - Poor idle quality)
All acc. Off
Monitor ICP and RPM with SCAN TOOL Hold engine speed at 3400 RPM for 3 minutes
Spec: ICP: 1800 PSI MAX @ 3,400 RPM

Low Idle Stability (ICP Pressure)
Check at low idle, EOT above 180 F
Monitor ICP and RPM with the SCAN TOOL 400 – 600 PSIG @ 670 RPM’s If engine RPM is unstable, disconnect the ICP sensor, If RPM is still unstable, change IPR and re-test.

If RPM smoothes out, the ICP sensor is at fault. Note: ICP will default to 725 PSI when disconnected