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hi guys, I am currently in the process of numerous projects on my 97 powerstroke. It all started with new glow plugs and relay as only 3/8 worked and relay was being temperamental. Then I noticed the banjo bolt was leaking, so I took the turbo off rebuilding fuel bowl all new fuel lines glow plugs, relay, filter, ebpv gut and blank. After everything was removed I noticed the fuel pump. Which leads to my question, would you change a $100 fuel pump (riff raff) if it was bad. And if so is there a special one or upgraded higher flow one that I can get, more tips on removal of old pump as I have read that the plunger can fall. Second, is there anything else you guys would recommend changing while turbo is off, valve covers off and fuel bowl? Thanks.
Generally when people upgrade they're fuel system they go electric fuel and get rid of the fuel bowl altogether. It makes a cleaner more consistent higher volume system. To remove your fuel pump unbolt it and turn the motor over by hand to let the cam push it up. When removing make sure you pull it straight up.
I thought of just returning the new hoses and seal kit to riff raff but isn't it a hard, long process for e-fuel? Will it hold up to say stage 2-3 injectors? would I be better of with a feul system kit ($1800) one that is tank up? or is this something that I can do for a few hundred bucks right now. I will do some more research on it after I get done typing this. The only reason I never considered doing it was I didn't think it was worth it.?.?.?
U pulled the turbo for a pump?
I used to not even pull the filter housing...get new ped o-rings and seal that up and delete the ebpv butterfly.
Check them up pipes too.if the turbo is off its the best time.
U pulled the turbo for a pump?
I used to not even pull the filter housing...get new ped o-rings and seal that up and delete the ebpv butterfly.
Check them up pipes too.if the turbo is off its the best time.
I pulled the filter housing to rebuild it as it had leaking stock lines, then I noticed the banjo bolt was missing a part of the waser (second leak) at that point I said screw it and took the turbo of as it probably has never been off, this way I could better inspect the up-pipes. Which neither locations on both up-pipes are leaking but the bolts that hold them together are paper thin in the center, for sure would snap if I touch it with a wrench.
I don't think the stock system will handle stage 1's very well. It's usually one of the first mods done. Aaron said that his fuel pressure would dip with his stock sticks. It can be done diy. I think it's roughly 500 bucks to do if you source it out cheaply. Someone else will chime in. I'm into mine for about 400
I know some have run with the stock stuff. I however have zero faith in the stock system . e-fuel it for the win.mine just with a chip would drop from 75(shimmed regulator) to 30 under hard accel .
Well thanks guys, I didn't get any sleep last night because I was researching e-fuel swaps. Now I have a few questions for the guys who have done this. I know that some use superduty pumps others use faas and some use airdog. I am leaning more towards ordering an airdog 2. Correct me if I am wrong, but that should include everything that I need? minus the fuel lines to the engine? also can High temp/High pressure soft lines be used vs the copper hard lines. Im looking at ordering my Air dog via thouroughbred as they are on sale until feb. 28..... (sad thing is I have all these o-rings filters and lines from the old system that I got from clay at riffraff.
I did a gsl392 and wix filters with generic basses.much less cash than those others. Just don't do a stock SD pump .IMO they are not high flow enough.
I guess I am asking your opinion as well as everyone else's and for that you need to know my point of view and future plans. As of right now my truck is ts 6 position (basic tunes) 6637 intake, Dp and 4" exhaust. I eventually would like to put a IC, turbo, stage 2/3 (haven't decided yet) injectors. As of right now I have no need for the truck as I am a full time student and employee (have a little car for a daily driver) so sitting time isn't and issue, and I have a ford 8n (funk, rare 6 cylinder, check it out if your are board cool little tractors) that I can use to pull it in and out of my shop for when things need to get done inside vs this -25* bull**** I live in. So that in mind I have the fuel bowl out, valve covers off, turbo removed.
I want to be able to have a system that can feed those injectors with no questions asked. I am one for doing it right the first time, so I don't want to half *** it. If I can build a kit for less and have it be as effective I will but if its going to cost $200-300 less Id rather buy the kit. Now that these mods are being considered I plan to pull the bed off as I need a rear fuel tank and the line for the forward tank leaks so I am constantly loosing fuel running or not. Sorry for the long post guys, I just know you all know what is best based on research and doing it yourself. Money doesn't grow on trees (college student) but I am willing to wait awhile to have it done right . So if that means a $1300.00 fuel system, $2000 injectors, and a $1000.00 turbo I will do it all right now and save the headache of doing it twice. But obviously if there is a cheaper or more reliable way to do so I will.
I will be honest,I never put a number on what I put together. I did the gsl392 95$,aeromotive regulator like 120$,filters 15 $ each,basses 25$ each,parker push loc steel fittings and 801 hose. I would bet I'm at 450-500$
The steel fittings are 1/3 the cost of aluminum an stuff . the push located is fairly easy to work with.
IMO half the cost is good but then you will have to wire it all up also. There is a certain aggervation factor associated with building your own system. If I had the cash buying a system would be nice but just not an option for me.
Correct me if I am wrong, but the strictly driven kit ($1300) is an air dog but with the necessary fuel lines. But I can buy the air dog kit through thouroughbred and just run my own lines?
I don't think the stock system will handle stage 1's very well. It's usually one of the first mods done. Aaron said that his fuel pressure would dip with his stock sticks. It can be done diy. I think it's roughly 500 bucks to do if you source it out cheaply. Someone else will chime in. I'm into mine for about 400
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