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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 03:07 PM
  #16  
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ProjectDually
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From: Fort Polk Louisiana
Originally Posted by pilgrimbizket
E fuel is taking power from starter relay.

I will try the gp relay. I put a oem gpr in back in October. But I will check it out as well.


Test your starter relay solenoid on the passenger fender. It could be possible you blew it out by pulling power from there to the fuel pump.


Just an idea.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 03:14 PM
  #17  
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Hate to state the obvious, but you have a bad power cable somewhere. I recently had this happen, ended up being a small junction box under my fuse box that split battery power. Corrosion had eaten it to nothing. Truck would go completely dark, as if someone had disconnected the batteries.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 03:17 PM
  #18  
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This is where I found my bad connection.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 03:57 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by thomabb
Hate to state the obvious, but you have a bad power cable somewhere. I recently had this happen, ended up being a small junction box under my fuse box that split battery power. Corrosion had eaten it to nothing. Truck would go completely dark, as if someone had disconnected the batteries.
Thank you so much for the video, I will look into that when I get home. This truck was in Alaska at one time of its life but theres not much rust on the vehicle.

Do you happen to know what that little junction is called?

Something I can pick up from Napa or Ford?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 04:24 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ProjectDually
Test your starter relay solenoid on the passenger fender. It could be possible you blew it out by pulling power from there to the fuel pump.
If the OP were running the fuel pump from the actual contact circuit of the relay, the engine would only run while cranking. Most likely s/he is drawing power from the "always hot" terminal on the relay, which supplies power to ALL the truck's accessories. None of that power actually goes through the relay. That terminal just acts as a junction point. So the relay could be shot, and everything else would still work. If that terminal itself were somehow damaged beyond the point that would even operate as a junction point, then nothing would work.

Originally Posted by pilgrimbizket
Negative at times the dome light will work when the door is opened. but power is quickly lost before I can even try activating any accessories
Def. sounds like a main power issue as stated above. Could be at the underhood fuse box as the video shows, or something as simple as a bad battery or battery ground connection. 'Course, this might actually indicate a problem at the connection at the starter relay. The relay itself might be fine, but if you used that junction point, and the nut is now loose, pretty-much EVERYTHING electrical on the truck will be intermittent.

Just to rule out (or in) the obvious, have you LOAD tested BOTH batteries, in isolation from one another?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 04:42 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
If the OP were running the fuel pump from the actual contact circuit of the relay, the engine would only run while cranking. Most likely s/he is drawing power from the "always hot" terminal on the relay, which supplies power to ALL the truck's accessories. None of that power actually goes through the relay. That terminal just acts as a junction point. So the relay could be shot, and everything else would still work. If that terminal itself were somehow damaged beyond the point that would even operate as a junction point, then nothing would work.
He lol, yes you are correct.

Originally Posted by madpogue
Def. sounds like a main power issue as stated above. Could be at underhood fuse box as the video shows, or something as simple as a bad battery or battery ground connection. 'Course, this might actually indicate a problem at the connection at the starter relay. The relay itself might be fine, but if you used that junction point, and the nut is now loose, pretty-much EVERYTHING electrical on the truck will be intermittent.

Just to rule out (or in) the obvious, have you LOAD tested BOTH batteries, in isolation from one another?
Starter relay is hooked up correctly. Nothing was loose when I took the parts store version off and replaced with a OEM.

I load tested them in December they both passed individually.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 04:44 PM
  #22  
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Thank you for all the responses to far. Please keep the the ideas coming. I need this thing running as soon as I get back.

I love FTE you guys are the best
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 07:41 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by pilgrimbizket
Do you happen to know what that little junction is called?

I am sure there is a part number, but it was just a little box with the main battery + wire coming into it and two wires coming out. When opened, it was just a stud with all the wires fastened under a nut. My mechanic found it (-10 and no heat in garage when it started acting up - lost patience in about an hour). He just cleaned all the wires up and spliced them all together, abandoning the box.


I don't know if your truck has the same little box, but somewhere between your batteries and your power distribution box you probably have cable rot.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 10:56 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by thomabb
I am sure there is a part number, but it was just a little box with the main battery + wire coming into it and two wires coming out. When opened, it was just a stud with all the wires fastened under a nut. My mechanic found it (-10 and no heat in garage when it started acting up - lost patience in about an hour). He just cleaned all the wires up and spliced them all together, abandoning the box.


I don't know if your truck has the same little box, but somewhere between your batteries and your power distribution box you probably have cable rot.

Thank you I will check to see if that box exist on the OBS. I doubt they have rotted out since my truck is pretty much rust free. Who knows though. Im hoping that nut may have come loose, maybe when I took the harness out in October. Im hoping this will be my issue, honestly other than that there has to be some fuse blown but my symptoms of having power for 1 sec I dont think reassemble a blown fuse
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 11:32 AM
  #25  
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Iirc there is 2 wires that run from the starter relay to the power dist box and both of them have a fusible link right after the relay. They might be worth a look
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 01:03 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MOOSE_MACHINE
Iirc there is 2 wires that run from the starter relay to the power dist box and both of them have a fusible link right after the relay. They might be worth a look
Thank you kind sir. Im starting to feel comfortable that I will have the truck running on my arrival.
Thank you for all suggestions made in this thread. I am extremely grateful.

What does Iirc mean?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 01:57 PM
  #27  
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IIRC= If I remember correctly
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 04:21 PM
  #28  
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The truck still wants to play dead. The batteries have volts but no accessories have power.

Why is my truck refusing to use any power?

I went through my fuses w a multimeter and all but #22 gave me a measurement over 10volts. #22 measured in at .002 so I swaped #3 relay with #1. Nothing changed except now the fuses where unresponsive to the multimeter.

Is it possible my pcm just randomly died? I really don't think its my PCM. I am going to get a new ignition switch a well.
What fuse runs the ignition switch? I was unable to locate that in the manual.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2015 | 10:42 PM
  #29  
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Check the continuity of fuse #22.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 10:10 PM
  #30  
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Well I never would of assumed a bad starter could give me any of the symptoms I experienced. The solenoid must of been shorting my entire system out.
 
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