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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

how hard to pull the bed?

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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 02:09 PM
  #16  
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The OEM clips, and likely the replacements, fit like they're made for it. I'd still visit the salvage yard as the eBay sets are a bit expensive.....IMO.



Edit:A heavy coating of anti-seize is advised.

Edit 2: In an effort to be a bit more accurate I'll post this. It consists of my photos and photos I have "borrowed" form the internet and FTE posts. It IS subject to error but is more accurate than my first illustration.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 02:10 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Big_Al59
I looked at some pics on eBay, looks easy enough. Those clips/nuts will line up right on our older frames? That would make it quicker.
Up here in the salt belt MN. the nut rusts onto the bolt and you'll twist off a torx bit trying to loosen. Heat helps but who wants to get under there with a torch! And if your tank is leaking forget about it!
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 02:58 PM
  #18  
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Now y'all got me thinking about using stainless bolts. Would look purty too.

Good advice on the anti-seize, NCR. Love that stuff.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 03:54 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ncranchero
The OEM clips, and likely the replacements, fit like they're made for it. I'd still visit the salvage yard as the eBay sets are a bit expensive.....IMO.



Edit:A heavy coating of anti-seize is advised.
Look nothing like the ones on my truck. Nothing in the heads of the bolt for a tool. But where the shank is squared on the ones you have pictured, mine are oval shaped and fit into an oval shape on the frame so nothing turns when the bolts are being tightened or removed.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 04:03 PM
  #20  
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On the one in junkyard that I just removed, it had the oval head screws in the 4 corners. The 2 in the middle had square shoulders on bolts.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 04:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by GuitarJesus
Look nothing like the ones on my truck. Nothing in the heads of the bolt for a tool. But where the shank is squared on the ones you have pictured, mine are oval shaped and fit into an oval shape on the frame so nothing turns when the bolts are being tightened or removed.
Correct, the bolt/nut ones pictured are older models. The 92-96/7 are oval shaped shoulders. I just couldn't quickly find a photo of them and it's too darn cold to go to the shop for a photo. The 97-up, as stated above, require a Torx bit.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 04:44 PM
  #22  
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my 88, 89, 90, and 91 trucks all had the oval shank bolts from the factory. never took the bed off the 92, so i don't know what that had on it.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 04:47 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
my 88, 89, 90, and 91 trucks all had the oval shank bolts from the factory. never took the bed off the 92, so i don't know what that had on it.
Smme ovals with nuts underneath up until Gen 10 body style.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 04:52 PM
  #24  
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Grade 8 bolts with nyloc nuts and anti-seize

never had one seize up in 20+ years
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 05:53 PM
  #25  
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Stock SuperDuty bed bolts. They require a TP-50 bit. That is a torx plus bit which has a different profile than a regular torx bit. I had to open up the holes in the frame a slight bit for the nut plates to sit down properly.


Link to part numbers. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13294728







 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 06:21 PM
  #26  
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Excellent kawamatt2 !! I knew I couldn't be the only one with this idea. Thanks for the pics!
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 07:17 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Big_Al59
On the one in junkyard that I just removed, it had the oval head screws in the 4 corners. The 2 in the middle had square shoulders on bolts.
As shown in my revised illustration.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 08:46 PM
  #28  
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Thanks for all the pics guys. I'll have to look for the newer style when I'm back at the pull n save getting a tail gate.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 04:29 AM
  #29  
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The problem with SuperDuty bolts is the clip brakes and then you are SOL because you can't even hold it with a wrench.

Get out the torch to BURN the clip off
 
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 06:21 AM
  #30  
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While that may be a problem, if preventative measures aren't taken, for a lot of rust country folks everyone doesn't live up there in the great frigid North. My 95 lived in SC until I bought it and now resides in NC. It has no rust at all except the expected frame surface rust. IDK the rust forecast in NoVA where the OP lives but these bolt suggestions are for anyone to consider. FWIW I did have one broken on my 98 and since the clips do have a hex nut on then I was able to grip it with ViseGrips to remove the bolt. The original bolts are as susceptible to rust as the 97-up ones. Rust doesn't care what it eats!
 
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