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The OEM clips, and likely the replacements, fit like they're made for it. I'd still visit the salvage yard as the eBay sets are a bit expensive.....IMO.
Edit:A heavy coating of anti-seize is advised.
Edit 2: In an effort to be a bit more accurate I'll post this. It consists of my photos and photos I have "borrowed" form the internet and FTE posts. It IS subject to error but is more accurate than my first illustration.
I looked at some pics on eBay, looks easy enough. Those clips/nuts will line up right on our older frames? That would make it quicker.
Up here in the salt belt MN. the nut rusts onto the bolt and you'll twist off a torx bit trying to loosen. Heat helps but who wants to get under there with a torch! And if your tank is leaking forget about it!
The OEM clips, and likely the replacements, fit like they're made for it. I'd still visit the salvage yard as the eBay sets are a bit expensive.....IMO.
Edit:A heavy coating of anti-seize is advised.
Look nothing like the ones on my truck. Nothing in the heads of the bolt for a tool. But where the shank is squared on the ones you have pictured, mine are oval shaped and fit into an oval shape on the frame so nothing turns when the bolts are being tightened or removed.
Look nothing like the ones on my truck. Nothing in the heads of the bolt for a tool. But where the shank is squared on the ones you have pictured, mine are oval shaped and fit into an oval shape on the frame so nothing turns when the bolts are being tightened or removed.
Correct, the bolt/nut ones pictured are older models. The 92-96/7 are oval shaped shoulders. I just couldn't quickly find a photo of them and it's too darn cold to go to the shop for a photo. The 97-up, as stated above, require a Torx bit.
Stock SuperDuty bed bolts. They require a TP-50 bit. That is a torx plus bit which has a different profile than a regular torx bit. I had to open up the holes in the frame a slight bit for the nut plates to sit down properly.
While that may be a problem, if preventative measures aren't taken, for a lot of rust country folks everyone doesn't live up there in the great frigid North. My 95 lived in SC until I bought it and now resides in NC. It has no rust at all except the expected frame surface rust. IDK the rust forecast in NoVA where the OP lives but these bolt suggestions are for anyone to consider. FWIW I did have one broken on my 98 and since the clips do have a hex nut on then I was able to grip it with ViseGrips to remove the bolt. The original bolts are as susceptible to rust as the 97-up ones. Rust doesn't care what it eats!